Wastegate actuator fitment
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I'm installing my (2G DSM) wastegate actuator.
I clocked my turbo and will have to drill and tap a new mounting position for the wastegate actuator. The arm on the actuator swings 180*, but the hole on the end is off by 90* (pic1, pic2) Ideas to fit: Cut and reweld. Con: no adjustability. Paying someone I have another actuator (pic3) that has a rotatable endlink which would work great except that it's a 17lb spring. No thanks! Can I cut the end off and "thread" the 8lb one? Any threading tool to do so? Thanks.. |
Nice lookin manifold!
A die will cut the "male" threads, kind of the opposite of a tap. Easiest solution: Why not run the adjustable actuator with a counter-spring? |
Or why not cut the threaded end off the adjustable actuator, and weld it on the non adjustable one?
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 58771)
Nice lookin manifold!
A die will cut the "male" threads, kind of the opposite of a tap. Easiest solution: Why not run the adjustable actuator with a counter-spring? DIE. That's the word I was looking for. ...Checking if ACE has em, probably do. I don't really feel like attaching a spring as a long term solution. Plus if I want more boost, I'll get to run a MBC which only helps out. |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 58772)
Or why not cut the threaded end off the adjustable actuator, and weld it on the non adjustable one?
Going to try the die as the best option IMO. Thanks Ben. Found: http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...Id=18326712291 Cheap too |
nice to see im no the only one that has a dipstick with no handle
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:gay: That broke off in the first 15 minutes.....
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Mine came broken. My first gift to the car was a "new" used dipstick.
I take forgranted that I have complete access to a shop and its tools. |
hahhahaa mine broke compleetly off, so the damn thing would fall all the way down in the tube, after having to pull it out twice, i drilled a hole in it and put a nail through it hehehe ugly, but works
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torch it and rotate the end. 2 minute job.
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it wouldn't be adjustable
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Originally Posted by braineack
(Post 58786)
torch it and rotate the end. 2 minute job.
Gonna give it a shot |
"Can I afford to fuck this up?" is the question you should be asking yourself before you light the torch :)
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Braineack FTW!
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;)
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nice! you'll want to put a cotter pin (or equivalent) on there to make sure the arm doesn't come off.
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Thats the way to do it alright, honestly, I don't even think the torch is needed.
I don't like welding to those things, always afrade the heat will damage the rubber/plastic bits I suspect are inside the can. My current actuator has two 45 degree bends in it to get it over to the right place, I just used a vice and hammer, works great, and you can adjust the tension by changing the angle of the bends. |
Originally Posted by UofACATS
(Post 58796)
;)
fuck yeah! now you just need the cotter pin (*cough*paperclip*cough*) |
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Threw it in a piece of tape cause I KNEW I'd lose it otherwise.
Mechazawa: The torch really helped. Made it twist nice and easy! |
do you even know how many of those things ive lost? tape is such a good idea.
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hey UofA, i just saw your turbo spool video on youtube, nice
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