Wastegate actuator fitment
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I'm installing my (2G DSM) wastegate actuator.
I clocked my turbo and will have to drill and tap a new mounting position for the wastegate actuator. The arm on the actuator swings 180*, but the hole on the end is off by 90* (pic1, pic2)
Ideas to fit:
Cut and reweld. Con: no adjustability. Paying someone
I have another actuator (pic3) that has a rotatable endlink which would work great except that it's a 17lb spring. No thanks! Can I cut the end off and "thread" the 8lb one? Any threading tool to do so?
Thanks..
I clocked my turbo and will have to drill and tap a new mounting position for the wastegate actuator. The arm on the actuator swings 180*, but the hole on the end is off by 90* (pic1, pic2)
Ideas to fit:
Cut and reweld. Con: no adjustability. Paying someone
I have another actuator (pic3) that has a rotatable endlink which would work great except that it's a 17lb spring. No thanks! Can I cut the end off and "thread" the 8lb one? Any threading tool to do so?
Thanks..
Nice lookin manifold!
A die will cut the "male" threads, kind of the opposite of a tap. Easiest solution: Why not run the adjustable actuator with a counter-spring?
A die will cut the "male" threads, kind of the opposite of a tap. Easiest solution: Why not run the adjustable actuator with a counter-spring?
Or why not cut the threaded end off the adjustable actuator, and weld it on the non adjustable one?
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DIE. That's the word I was looking for. ...Checking if ACE has em, probably do.
I don't really feel like attaching a spring as a long term solution. Plus if I want more boost, I'll get to run a MBC which only helps out.
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Going to try the die as the best option IMO. Thanks Ben.
Found: http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...Id=18326712291
Cheap too
Mine came broken. My first gift to the car was a "new" used dipstick.
I take forgranted that I have complete access to a shop and its tools.
I take forgranted that I have complete access to a shop and its tools.
hahhahaa mine broke compleetly off, so the damn thing would fall all the way down in the tube, after having to pull it out twice, i drilled a hole in it and put a nail through it hehehe ugly, but works
nice! you'll want to put a cotter pin (or equivalent) on there to make sure the arm doesn't come off.
Thats the way to do it alright, honestly, I don't even think the torch is needed.
I don't like welding to those things, always afrade the heat will damage the rubber/plastic bits I suspect are inside the can.
My current actuator has two 45 degree bends in it to get it over to the right place, I just used a vice and hammer, works great, and you can adjust the tension by changing the angle of the bends.
I don't like welding to those things, always afrade the heat will damage the rubber/plastic bits I suspect are inside the can.
My current actuator has two 45 degree bends in it to get it over to the right place, I just used a vice and hammer, works great, and you can adjust the tension by changing the angle of the bends.
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