Weld turbo to manifold - bad idea?
 

Now wait I know this would be a bad idea under most circumstances but listen.

I got the old style Begi manifold that fits the areodyne turbo. I got a T3 turbo believing the manifold could be modified to fit "any" turbo. After getting both I learned from Begi that they couldn't modify it to fit a T3 only a T25.

In measuring and looking at both the main issue would be no room for bolts and nuts on the backside of the manifold to attach the T3. So I thought perhaps holes in the front and have a shop drill and tap studs in the back. Well in calling welding shops it is extremely expensive to use the right welding rods to weld mild steel to cast iron and with the labor included it would cost about as much if not more than a brand new cast 1.6 T3 manifold. So not really an option.

See the problem is I began this DIY turbo build with the idea of getting a basic turbo setup going for as little dough as possible. So my options:

#1 Send the mani to Begi to be modified to fit a T25 - $100 + shipping back and forth. then find a T25 (nissan type) which so far I haven't been able to find for less than $200 so lets so all together this option will be around $400.

#2 If I can have the turbo welded to the mani cost $??? I don't know but I cant imagine more than $100.

The issue is that while I think I can get my money back on the T3 at this point if I use option #1 if I don't use the manifold I don't think anyone else would want it so I would be eating the $150 I paid for it.

So I am leaning towards just welding them together (if it's possible) and running the turbo until it goes and then I will find a different mani and turbo. I only paid $110 for the T3 and with the cost of the manifold it's $260 even if this just gives me one summer of turbo fun and I replace them over the next winter it seems worth it as opposed to spending any additional $$$ now (money is short).

Time is also a factor modifying the mani and finding a T25 or finding a T3 mani that fits my budget ( i am trying to stay away from the cheap SS ebay manis )will take who knows how long as well, warm weather is here so......

So what do you guys think? Crazy or plausible?

Here are some pics:

It looks like the oil lines are almost vertical the way the turbo would mount as is would I still need to clock it?

Also on the exhaust side if I take that thing with the three studs off would I then be able to use the standard T25 dump pipe/j pipe thing down pipe? I know mine is a T3 but that looks like the T25 exhaust side if you take that off?

it works for the SRT-4
http://www.turbochargers.com/store/images/srtturbo.JPG

wait, sorry. what I meant was

welding cast iron is a crap shoot at best. chances are you'll get a few hundred miles and then it'll crack. and then it'll crack enough to make you regret doing it. even done right, it's still not very strong / crack resistant.

I dont understand why you dont just make an adapter plate?

With half inch steel with studs coming out each way..

Loki has the right idea, IMHO, buy a cheep drill press and make it yourself.

I would like to do that but look at this picture, on what I call the back side where the two studs are coming out if I drill into there its right inside the manifold. Could I drill the mounting plate for the turbo to fit the existing studs and drills holes in the mani on the other side to accomadate the T3 holes or would this weaken the mani too much?

You can still do it using those studs. You would have to recess the nuts inside the adapter flange. If you give me dimensions I could draw it up for you.

dimensions of the manifold?

Dimensions of the flange with locations of the studs.

The manifold flange or the turbo flange?

The flange that the turbo bolts to on the manifold. The one you just showed a picture of.

It's an odd shape:

Whats the pattern on the turbo?

for what it's worth, the previous owner of my car welded the turbo to the manifold. It has survived being on a heavily run turbo car for almost 2 years on constant abuse, drag strip runs, and autox. In fact, i really wanted to break them apart and use hardware, but the weld appears to be very well done. Hey, if it's lasted this long......

For dissimilar metals or cast iron I'd recommend brazing with silver solder.

Just make an adapter plate. Make sure that the plate and the manifold are perfectly flat and it will all be ok. If you want to be clever about it you could put a o-ring in there but that's overkill.

Mark

The turbo is a T3. I think I understand how an adapter plate and I can't figure out how to attach it can you explain?

I have a mild steel T3 flange that I got from Ebay.

That might work depending on your thickness. Heres what I was thinking.

http://www.solidworks.com/pages/prod...eDrawings.html

Yes. You drill and countersink the adapter plate and you add studs to mount the T3. You make have to get a little clever in how you do this or you may have to drill and tap in different spots on the manifold to accomodate the T3 bolt pattern but this is a no brainer.

Mark

Looks good to me.
With 1/2" plate you'd have enough depth to drill and tap the adapter for studs and bolt the turbo right up without any modification to the manifold itself.

Thanks everyone and especially Loki! I took your drawing the manifold and the T3 flange (to use for a pattern) to the machine shop guy I used to make me a part for my hard boot cover and he is going to make the plate out of 1/2" stock drilled and tapped and countersunk as per you guys' ideas and it's only gonna cost me $70 - $80 bucks! So I saved money and I don't have to get a different turbo! And I didn't have to get a cheapy Ebay manifold. Thanks!

Awesome! let us know how it turned out.

it's going to suck when he finds out you made the template wrong :gay:

Hopefully the guy used his brain and took the turbo and manifold into the machinist so he could take his own measurements.

i just have little faith in Mr. Flux-Weld :gay: :rofl:

Agreed... whomever suggestion brazing it had the right idea but if you glow the manifold you risk melting the brazing material out.

I probably would have used 3/4" plate instead of 1/2" plate. 1/2" isn't going to leave you much meat after the counter-bore is done. Or are you counter-sinking? I prefer counter-bore since metrix button head screws are easier to find at hardware stores.

by mr flux weld i meant loki....check out his old DP

I took the manifold and the T3 flange I had in with me. There were no measurements in the drawing it just gave the guy a picture of what I was talking about. This guy is a crafstman and I am sure he made his own measurements ect. I will post pics when it's done.

Yeah!!!flux weld, well its better then mig (unless you need stainless)

Yeah I put no dimensions in the edrawing thing for that reason. Incase his measurements were off or my mind calcs were wrong.

And that DP was my first experience welding you should see what I can do now, gorgeous!

im just fucking wit cha.

Yeah i know :) but i want to brag about my skillz

Post some pics of those skills man. I don't want to critique, i just like pretty welds.