Where'd the power go?
#1
Where'd the power go?
Hi guys. I've recently fired up my 92 that I turbo charged over the winter. (extended winter). I have never done this before but I'm trying to learn from it. I'm using a BEGi piping kit with a fc intercooler and an unknown turbo (I know...). I disassembled and cleaned the turbo thoroughly but who knows. Anyway, upon firing it up I had great success with all tests including fuel pressure, no knock, holds almost three pounds of boost. It has been very reliable and I had no issue driving 3 hours out of town to a wedding and back.
Here lies my problem. The car has been great for three weeks and I've been hesitating to increase boost until other modifications have been made so I deemed testing complete and put the cosmetics back together and removed the fuel pressure gauge that was 'T'ed off my fuel line. (just there for reference while testing). Now I have no power. None. when I floor it I actually begin to decelerate. It's running impossibly rich and is missing almost all the way through the rev band. It obviously turned on the CEL. I have no idea what I've done or could have done.
I'm currently trying to find a friend with an OBDI reader so I can get an idea as to whats up but I'm broke-*** so I haven't brought her anywhere since. I've changed my plugs (which were caked with carbon) and my PCV. I tried tightening the alternator tensioner and the idle has calmed down a little but nothing has really helped.
Is there anyone with experience in this area or ideas/ suggestions on where i can start looking? I want my baby back!
Here lies my problem. The car has been great for three weeks and I've been hesitating to increase boost until other modifications have been made so I deemed testing complete and put the cosmetics back together and removed the fuel pressure gauge that was 'T'ed off my fuel line. (just there for reference while testing). Now I have no power. None. when I floor it I actually begin to decelerate. It's running impossibly rich and is missing almost all the way through the rev band. It obviously turned on the CEL. I have no idea what I've done or could have done.
I'm currently trying to find a friend with an OBDI reader so I can get an idea as to whats up but I'm broke-*** so I haven't brought her anywhere since. I've changed my plugs (which were caked with carbon) and my PCV. I tried tightening the alternator tensioner and the idle has calmed down a little but nothing has really helped.
Is there anyone with experience in this area or ideas/ suggestions on where i can start looking? I want my baby back!
#3
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Location: Tampa, Florida
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Uh, ok. It sounds like the Link isn't communicating with either the MS1 or the AEM. Is the LC-1 even wired into a Hydra or Adaptronic? If not, you should chuck the FMU and reflash your firmware.
#5
sorry I should have been more specific. I'm not running FMU. I already know that's the way to go but I was trying to avoid it to experience the headache of learning. There is no carburetor. I am running a billion band-aids.
-Aeromotive rising-rate FPR
-Forge recirculating diverter valve
-MSD ignition controller
-Split second Voltage regulator (supposedly prevents ECM from cutting fuel under boost)
-Split second A/F meter (not wide-band but it's a weird row of lights that seems much more accurate than those lazer show gauges)
-TurboXS manual boost controller
that's all I can remember off the top of my head. I'll pop the hood when I get home from class and double check.
Last night I drove the car again very timidly and I noticed a screeching sound. I swear it sounds like it's coming from the exhaust at the cat but I know it couldn't be. I'm concerned that it is the turbo fan but assuming that I'm correct, would a bad bearing or the fan rubbing cause such a dramatic loss in power? Any application of the gas over about 1/8 depression causes the car to bog down completely and it tries to stall out.
-Aeromotive rising-rate FPR
-Forge recirculating diverter valve
-MSD ignition controller
-Split second Voltage regulator (supposedly prevents ECM from cutting fuel under boost)
-Split second A/F meter (not wide-band but it's a weird row of lights that seems much more accurate than those lazer show gauges)
-TurboXS manual boost controller
that's all I can remember off the top of my head. I'll pop the hood when I get home from class and double check.
Last night I drove the car again very timidly and I noticed a screeching sound. I swear it sounds like it's coming from the exhaust at the cat but I know it couldn't be. I'm concerned that it is the turbo fan but assuming that I'm correct, would a bad bearing or the fan rubbing cause such a dramatic loss in power? Any application of the gas over about 1/8 depression causes the car to bog down completely and it tries to stall out.
#6
I want to like you because I've never met a Canadian I don't like- but that sentence reads like avoiding the headache of learning.
You have all of the tools at your disposal, go learn- explore. Report back with something. You have a unique setup that only you know and a series of strange noises. That is not enough info to help you.
You have all of the tools at your disposal, go learn- explore. Report back with something. You have a unique setup that only you know and a series of strange noises. That is not enough info to help you.
#7
"Hay forumz ppl, my car aint runnin good wat wrong wit it bros?"
trouble shoot it like you would anything else. is it getting spark, fuel, etc... all cylinders firing? plugs ok? what's the fuel pressure look like... determine what the main focus is that's causing it to run like this and then examine each part that controls the function in question. the board and interwebs is super resourceful but diagnose your problem before you look for the answer. can't answer a question when you don't know what the question is to begin with.
you don't need an obd I reader. it's not usually super helpful but if you use the jumper in the hood it does do blinky light engine fault codes. I wouldn't bother relying on this. the best way to getting your car working correctly is to be patient and diagnose the issue. clear your head go out and tackle the problem like it's your bitch.
without knowing a lot about your setup and the lack of information... consider your exhaust. did you get a new exhaust with your turbo? cat could be clogged up. when you run bandaids you normally run really rich and that can often lead to gummy clogged cat. if your fuel and spark checkout ok you could try disconnecting your exhaust at the dp and see if that clears it up. if it does it's the cat. anyway like mentioned before. stop being lazy and diagnose that ish like a man.
trouble shoot it like you would anything else. is it getting spark, fuel, etc... all cylinders firing? plugs ok? what's the fuel pressure look like... determine what the main focus is that's causing it to run like this and then examine each part that controls the function in question. the board and interwebs is super resourceful but diagnose your problem before you look for the answer. can't answer a question when you don't know what the question is to begin with.
you don't need an obd I reader. it's not usually super helpful but if you use the jumper in the hood it does do blinky light engine fault codes. I wouldn't bother relying on this. the best way to getting your car working correctly is to be patient and diagnose the issue. clear your head go out and tackle the problem like it's your bitch.
without knowing a lot about your setup and the lack of information... consider your exhaust. did you get a new exhaust with your turbo? cat could be clogged up. when you run bandaids you normally run really rich and that can often lead to gummy clogged cat. if your fuel and spark checkout ok you could try disconnecting your exhaust at the dp and see if that clears it up. if it does it's the cat. anyway like mentioned before. stop being lazy and diagnose that ish like a man.
#8
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I'm disappointed that companies even sell band-aid trash in this day and age. I guess you can't blame them though, they'd be missing out on a whole section of the market.
Megasquirt is so cheap, and so awesome, that you're nuts for running anything else. I say don't even turbo a car if you can't afford the EMS to go with it, spend the money on something else.
However your band-aid setup should work, so start with the basics. You removed a fuel pressure gauge? Put it back on and check your pressures. Do you have a wbo2 to watch fuel? What exactly is it doing - give us numbers. Did a vac line slip off your FPR? Check the basics.
Megasquirt is so cheap, and so awesome, that you're nuts for running anything else. I say don't even turbo a car if you can't afford the EMS to go with it, spend the money on something else.
However your band-aid setup should work, so start with the basics. You removed a fuel pressure gauge? Put it back on and check your pressures. Do you have a wbo2 to watch fuel? What exactly is it doing - give us numbers. Did a vac line slip off your FPR? Check the basics.
#9
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,652
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I think my head hurts worse now that I do know your mods.
Without a wideband, you can't even tune a bandaids setup. If you don't care that much, why should we?
You said your turbo might be rubbing but you haven't reached into the front of it to check it. Why?
Without a wideband, you can't even tune a bandaids setup. If you don't care that much, why should we?
You said your turbo might be rubbing but you haven't reached into the front of it to check it. Why?
#10
Thanks guys. Next step wide band. But I'm a broke-*** student so it'll be a while. I'll keep researching but I figured it couldn't hurt to see if anyone had some helpful input. So thank you to those with some to share. I apologize if I didn't provide you with enough information. I'm new to this kind of thing.
As for sixshooter, I never told anyone they had to care about my setup, even though you cared enough to comment.
As for sixshooter, I never told anyone they had to care about my setup, even though you cared enough to comment.
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