Would you buy this build?
I'm looking at buying someones turbo build and wanted your input. Below is the listing details and some photos. I'd love some feedback and see if this is something I should pursue.
Engine block has been built with a new head. Arp headstuds new turbo gasket HKS rods and pistons Upgraded oil pump Boost controller with remote switch Flying Miata clutch and flywheel Turbo lines have been done right with all AN fittings and welded into the pan. OEM Hardtop with defroster Hard dog M2 hard core double diagonal roll bar with vinyl covered padding $900 buddy racing spec bucket seats (FRP) with mounts Mega squirt 3 pro ecu AEM wideband UEGO Air/Fuel controller JEGS Battery gauge JEGS Water temp gauge JEGS Oil pressure gauge Full custom 3 inch exhaust and down pipe ID 1000 high flow E85 injectors Walboro 450 E85 high pressure fuel pump Megan racing coil overs, stock suspension Shock tower brace MOMO Italy Fighterwood mahogany and leather racing steering wheel with NRG quick release hub Begi turbo manifold K&N air filter Rebuilt SR20 turbo Huge flying Miata intercooler GReddy BOV Racing dynamic Motorsports Pro Race 1.2 wheels Stock radiator, single fan Coolant reroute A/C P/S delete NEW: battery, coolant flush, oil, spark plugs Has spare tire, jack and all that https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...47d38a3ede.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3008c14eed.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6ec02c03c.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2e9629ed5e.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d9003924e.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d5a2a6fbe3.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...affb328509.jpg |
Yes?
|
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1591888)
Yes?
Thank you? Does is look like a pretty solid build list? Should I be concerned with anything? If I decide to go with it, I'd get a new rad and fans, then do an oil cooler. Sound about right? |
Look good to me. Looks like a pretty nice and tidy car, has all the right parts (where it counts at least). The cold-side piping is a bit suspect, but if it works it works. And I'd throw those Megans out and replace them with something respectable. Of course the execution of how the motor was built, the tuning, etc. is the real important part, not just the parts list. Assuming everything is up to spec I'd say that's a solid car.
|
That's what I was thinking. He's going to dyno tune tomorrow and I'll be awaiting those results. He said the previous owner to him built the motor and used a 1.8 off a 50k mile car. 50k trans as well. I've got a deposit on it and I'll be flying down to go look at it next week.
Thanks for your input! |
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1591895)
The cold-side piping is a bit suspect, but if it works it works.
|
Primary reason for oil cooler is if you are going to run sustained high RPM, which means track to me. For that, the most important thing is a heat shield to keep from melting the brake reservoir.
Mentioning in case you get the car. |
Good catch with the heat shield. Thanks!
|
Has HKS ever offered pistons and rods for a BP? Doesn't look like they currently do and I've never heard of them being offered.
|
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1591942)
Has HKS ever offered pistons and rods for a BP? Doesn't look like they currently do and I've never heard of them being offered.
|
Originally Posted by glenjamindle
(Post 1591946)
Fab9 sells them
|
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1591947)
I'm not seeing them. Got a link?
Nope, because I'm an idiot. They don't exist. I hate that the internals are one of the few things I can't verify on this build. I'm taking a chance, but if the rest of the car looks good and appears to be a quality install...I have to assume. |
Originally Posted by glenjamindle
(Post 1591953)
Nope, because I'm an idiot. They don't exist. I hate that the internals are one of the few things I can't verify on this build. I'm taking a chance, but if the rest of the car looks good and appears to be a quality install...I have to assume.
I don't see an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. You can't stuff a 450 into a miata and run the stock fuel pressure regulator with it. |
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1591954)
Without receipts you can't verify lots of the things on that list.
I don't see an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. You can't stuff a 450 into a miata and run the stock fuel pressure regulator with it. |
Overall, looks fairly clean - but I do wonder why they built it with a BP head instead of upgrading to 99/VVT. There's a couple other idiosyncrasies - coolant reroute, stock radiator and fans. A/C and power steering delete. If there was a shot of the tail, could see if there's a power antenna - which, along with tan interior/power windows and doors is a good indicator of a torsen.
|
Originally Posted by gooflophaze
(Post 1591964)
Overall, looks fairly clean - but I do wonder why they built it with a BP head instead of upgrading to 99/VVT. There's a couple other idiosyncrasies - coolant reroute, stock radiator and fans. A/C and power steering delete. If there was a shot of the tail, could see if there's a power antenna - which, along with tan interior/power windows and doors is a good indicator of a torsen.
|
Originally Posted by glenjamindle
(Post 1591897)
What would you do differently on the cold side?
|
I'd probably take a chance on this at $5-6k if it didn't have the stupid bumper/fender string thingers.
Subtract whatever amount it would cost to remedy that fix. Looks reasonable otherwise, although some strange choices. 2/10 would not own as is. 7/10 would play with after a few choice parts swaps. |
I'd change the bumper mounting, wheels, tires, intercooler piping, radiator, shock tower brace, turbo, steering wheel, reroute, suspension, and as a minor thing, I'd replace the damper so the PS section isn't rusty, and remove the valve cover to install an upper timing cover.
I'd take the total of the low end of those modifications so I don't come off as an ass, subtract the low end of what I could sell the removed parts for, judge how long it would take to fix all that and value my labor, and offer him that. If the result of that equation isn't close to his asking, maybe pass. Also, if you're not a tuner, and you you think starting, idling, cruising, or WOT doesn't perform well, know that a full re-tune by a competent tuner runs around $1000. |
So quick update. I asked how the tuning turned out. I was under the assumption he was taking it to a dyno facility.
Seller states "Some good and bad, so I had a guy come here to do the tune, he said it was not letting him connect his laptop to the tuner studio, so he couldn’t do the performance and cold start tune. But he did find a big Vacuum leak that was fixed and it idles better and holds boost a lot better. It was probably making 3lbs before and now it’s making 10lbs. Ha it def gets it. Afr’s are all good and safe for mild and light aggression driving, it will still need a performance tune to go all out. He said it is making over 200 now. Very reliable and safe." I think this is gonna be a pass for me unless the price is well below his asking. |
What’s he asking? Forgot to mention PS for a street car is a must for me.
|
I agreed to come take a look at it if he was willing to come down to $7k from his ridiculous asking price. My tentative offer had exclusions, one of them being a complete dyno tune. It's a clean car with matching hardtop, but I'm no longer as excited as I once was.
In the end it's a 1996 12 owner miata with hardtop, undocumented and questionable build, 200k on the body, and (allegedly) 50k on motor and trans. I think he's over valuing it by a lot. |
From everything I am reading, I would consider this as a miata that comes with a used turbo kit. Everything is going to have to be gone through and verified/checked.
|
Where is this located? Just curious.
It’s the right friggen color...that’s for dang sure! |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:28 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands