When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm looking at buying someones turbo build and wanted your input. Below is the listing details and some photos. I'd love some feedback and see if this is something I should pursue.
Engine block has been built with a new head.
Arp headstuds new turbo gasket
HKS rods and pistons
Upgraded oil pump
Boost controller with remote switch
Flying Miata clutch and flywheel
Turbo lines have been done right with all AN fittings and welded into the pan.
OEM Hardtop with defroster
Hard dog M2 hard core double diagonal roll bar with vinyl covered padding
$900 buddy racing spec bucket seats (FRP) with mounts
Mega squirt 3 pro ecu
AEM wideband UEGO Air/Fuel controller
JEGS Battery gauge
JEGS Water temp gauge
JEGS Oil pressure gauge
Full custom 3 inch exhaust and down pipe
ID 1000 high flow E85 injectors
Walboro 450 E85 high pressure fuel pump
Megan racing coil overs, stock suspension
Shock tower brace
MOMO Italy Fighterwood mahogany and leather racing steering wheel with NRG quick release hub
Does is look like a pretty solid build list? Should I be concerned with anything? If I decide to go with it, I'd get a new rad and fans, then do an oil cooler. Sound about right?
Look good to me. Looks like a pretty nice and tidy car, has all the right parts (where it counts at least). The cold-side piping is a bit suspect, but if it works it works. And I'd throw those Megans out and replace them with something respectable. Of course the execution of how the motor was built, the tuning, etc. is the real important part, not just the parts list. Assuming everything is up to spec I'd say that's a solid car.
That's what I was thinking. He's going to dyno tune tomorrow and I'll be awaiting those results. He said the previous owner to him built the motor and used a 1.8 off a 50k mile car. 50k trans as well. I've got a deposit on it and I'll be flying down to go look at it next week.
Primary reason for oil cooler is if you are going to run sustained high RPM, which means track to me. For that, the most important thing is a heat shield to keep from melting the brake reservoir.
Nope, because I'm an idiot. They don't exist. I hate that the internals are one of the few things I can't verify on this build. I'm taking a chance, but if the rest of the car looks good and appears to be a quality install...I have to assume.
Nope, because I'm an idiot. They don't exist. I hate that the internals are one of the few things I can't verify on this build. I'm taking a chance, but if the rest of the car looks good and appears to be a quality install...I have to assume.
Without receipts you can't verify lots of the things on that list.
I don't see an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. You can't stuff a 450 into a miata and run the stock fuel pressure regulator with it.
Without receipts you can't verify lots of the things on that list.
I don't see an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. You can't stuff a 450 into a miata and run the stock fuel pressure regulator with it.
Good catch. I'm a little hesitant buying an undocumented build and according to the carfax it's been through 12 owners. This is exactly why I'm looking for input from the pros on this forum.
Overall, looks fairly clean - but I do wonder why they built it with a BP head instead of upgrading to 99/VVT. There's a couple other idiosyncrasies - coolant reroute, stock radiator and fans. A/C and power steering delete. If there was a shot of the tail, could see if there's a power antenna - which, along with tan interior/power windows and doors is a good indicator of a torsen.
Overall, looks fairly clean - but I do wonder why they built it with a BP head instead of upgrading to 99/VVT. There's a couple other idiosyncrasies - coolant reroute, stock radiator and fans. A/C and power steering delete. If there was a shot of the tail, could see if there's a power antenna - which, along with tan interior/power windows and doors is a good indicator of a torsen.
According to the VIN, It's a 96 with L trim and a Type 2 Torsen
It looks to me like he re-used the OEM plastic tubing for the 90* to the trottle body. That's a bit suspect and I wouldn't trust it to track abuse. Though it might be perfectly fine as well.
I'd change the bumper mounting, wheels, tires, intercooler piping, radiator, shock tower brace, turbo, steering wheel, reroute, suspension, and as a minor thing, I'd replace the damper so the PS section isn't rusty, and remove the valve cover to install an upper timing cover.
I'd take the total of the low end of those modifications so I don't come off as an ***, subtract the low end of what I could sell the removed parts for, judge how long it would take to fix all that and value my labor, and offer him that. If the result of that equation isn't close to his asking, maybe pass.
Also, if you're not a tuner, and you you think starting, idling, cruising, or WOT doesn't perform well, know that a full re-tune by a competent tuner runs around $1000.
So quick update. I asked how the tuning turned out. I was under the assumption he was taking it to a dyno facility.
Seller states "Some good and bad, so I had a guy come here to do the tune, he said it was not letting him connect his laptop to the tuner studio, so he couldn’t do the performance and cold start tune. But he did find a big Vacuum leak that was fixed and it idles better and holds boost a lot better. It was probably making 3lbs before and now it’s making 10lbs. Ha it def gets it. Afr’s are all good and safe for mild and light aggression driving, it will still need a performance tune to go all out. He said it is making over 200 now. Very reliable and safe."
I think this is gonna be a pass for me unless the price is well below his asking.
01-29-2021, 12:23 PM
Would you buy this build?
0
