x8mrxjohn8x's Build Thread
 

Hello. I planned to turbo my miata about 2 years ago but felt that I didn't have the knowledge required to go through my build. After 2 years of reading through this forum, I am starting to build my turbo miata.
I have about 2 weeks to finish my build. I will be driving this car to UCSD for college and school is around the corner.
I already finished installing these: raceland coilover, 460cc injectors, MSPNP, 6uLs 1st gen, artech exhaust, cat back, and highflow cat, IAT sensor.
I pretty much have everything I need to finish the install.

How do I post pictures directly on the forum page so that people will not have to click the small attachment to expand the picture?
I bought the wrong turbo and the 5 bolt exhaust flange on the turbo won't fit the downpipe flange artech made for me. So, I am guessing that the turbo I bought is a different 5 bolt flange.
I will continue to post as soon as I learn how to post up pictures.

Attachment 194616

Testing if the picture was added. This is how my car looked when i first bought it. I forgot to take a picture of the whole car.

Nice cut through the radiator support.

Attachment 194609

Old stock exhaust manifold is off. I will be running a topmount setup so I can keep PS and AC

Attachment 194610

this is my simple log manifold built by artech.

Attachment 194611

All this is going in very soon

Attachment 194611

My dual exhaust built by artech again. It is too heavy when mounted and slants to one side so I need to make another hanger. Artech warned me about the problem beforehand.

Attachment 194613

This is my turbo flange and downpipe flange. Both look idenitcal but the Downpipe flange is smaller than the turbo's flange. Can anyone lead me to a chinacharger turbo that has a similar flange as my downpipe??

Attachment 194614
Attachment 194615

I will need alot of help from all of you guys because this is my first project ever and my skill in auto mechanics isn't the greatest.

those exhaust parts....mmmmmm:drool:


the flanges could be different due to some chinachargers having a weird one off 5 bolt design while artech made your dp with the traditional t25 5 bolt flange

My godspeed turbo doesn't work with any traditional t25 dp flange. Same size, and very similar in design, but just a BIT different. Enough to confuse the hell out of you and frustrate you..lol

Bought this car on the cheap. Its been in a front end accident.

Funny I was reading your thread and came across that line and thought for a second.... then was like "Oh shit!" a fellow UCSD student!

Good to see another boosted miata will be hitting the streets of SD soon!

I myself just sold my SR s14 and am in the market for a cheap NA project to work on.

Looks like yours is coming along nicely :D

What are your power goals?

Best of luck with the build, I'll be following along with ya'.

Maybe by years end we can cruse up through del mar and PCH.

@BewstinSDx5
It's going to be my first year at UCSD. I am a transfer student. My power goals is 180hp. I know with the stuff I have, I can probably reach way higher goals, but I just want a reliable street car for now. I will probably be up and down PCH with my top down every weekend. =)

If i install a wideband o2 sensor, does that mean I no longer need the stock o2 sensor?

I finished drilling my oil drain hole today so glad that's over with.

If the megasquirt is in then you don't.

correct. The Megasquirt uses a MAP sensor to adjust its A/F changes.

To add, a WBo2 is really only a necessity when it comes to tuning, and if you want to monitor your A/F ratio. Remember, the further downstream your sensor is mounted, the less fluctuation or readings you will get.

Where's the "take this advice with a grain of salt" icon?

You can replace the narrowband o2 with the wb02, MS needs one or the other. It doesn't just use MAP to adjust the "A/F changes" (pulsewidth), it can take in mind the a/f ratio it's reading and make adjustments in order to achieve more ideal ratios.

It is true, once you are tuned you don't "need" the o2, but there's no reason to not keep it installed 24/7 and keep closed loop fueling ON.

The further downstream the sensor, the less the exhaust heat can damage the sensor. You want to put it before the cat but far enough away from the turbo so the heat does not shorten the lifespan of the sensor.

Just so I can get this straight, are you saying that one should leave the downstream narrowband o2 in place, and install the wbo2 before the cat? I have had my wideband installed completely independent of the ecu before....whether that was right or not idk...

I finally got around to install the downpipe and manifold. I had to remove the bracket that was holding the stock exhaust. One bolt wouldn't come loose so I cut the whole metal piece off.
I test fitted the turbo and everything seems like it will fit 100%.
Here is a picture of the downpipe and manifold in.
Attachment 194389

Now I have some questions, do you guys think that the intercooler is too low positioned? I know this intercooler is a little big to have, considering I will be keeping AC and PS. But, I already had this intercooler from a long time ago and do not want to buy another one.
Attachment 194390
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if anyone ever had an issue with putting their intercooler too low, please enlighten me.

that shouldn't be too low, but I'd raise it as much as you can, even make it not centered if you have to.


take mine for example:

looks good straight on:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...79+_Large_.JPG

at an angle:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...78+_Large_.JPG

there's a lot of runners that aren't directly exposed

It took me about an hour and a half to make the intercooler mounts. It isn't perfect like something joe will do, but it works. Got the idea from FM. Anyways, going to buy some more aluminum pipes tomorrow to finish my intercooler system.
Attachment 194368

Thanks for verifying Braineack. My intercooler is almost in the exact position as yours.

Tomorrow I will be installing my LC1 wideband and gauge. Before I do so, I always like to verify that what I plan on doing is correct before actually doing the job.
To install my LC-1:
1. The red wire (12V power source) is going to the white/pink wire on my fuel pump relay as pictured below
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...n8x/wiring.jpg
2. The blue and white wire will be grounded right on the chassis where the ecu mounts to the floorboard.
3. Yellow wire is going to MS.
4. Brown wire is going to DB gauge
5. Black wire (pretty sure I know how to hook this up)
For the gauge:
1. Can the red wire also be soldered to the pink/white wire on the fuel pump relay?
2. Black (ground) grounded to the same ground as white wire of LC-1
3. white wire will be connected to the brown (output 2) lc1 wire.
4. The yellow wire, does this wire have to be connected to the headlight power wire or can I just connect it to any 12v power source so the gauge can be lit up brightly whenever the car is on?