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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 06-08-2011, 04:46 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
I have always believed the answer to this question to be "yes", but would like a smart answer.

Would an ATI damper have benefits on a stock engine? Abd by benefits, I merely mean as an added margin of safety for oil-pump gear destroying harmonics and such
Not enough to rely on.
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:47 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by aaronc7 View Post
great thread....yeah sorta bumping it here sorry.

Can we get some info in here regarding what's needed to make the engine last and make power up to lets say... 8k rpm?
My motor makes power to 8k, kinda.. it will make more when my new intake manifold is on.

-Balanced bottom end + billet OPG + forged pistons/rods
-head work (porting), oversize SS valves (not a must but will help), solid lifters (must have if you plan to rev to 8k), cams and a better flowing intake manifold.

My motor starts choking at about 7800RPM right now but with my new gotPSI? intake manifold that will all change.
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:58 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
9. Stock Pistons. 300hp. This is not a definitive number, but rather a generally agreed upon value. Stock pistons are forged, but generally fail at the ring lands.
I thought our OEM pistons were cast?
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:06 PM   #44
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Cast does not mean they are bad. I built a 600awhp gtr with cast pistons. It's all in the tune.
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:24 PM   #45
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The tune is damn important, but it's not all in the tune. You can't tune a Miata piston to withstand 900whp. You can tune it to withstand 300whp for a while, at least until you bend a rod. :P
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:22 PM   #46
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Good thread. Answers a lot of my noobish questions.

You said ATI damper will not have benefits at stock motor "safe" power levels. I'm guessing if going through the expenses to build a motor it's one of those things you should just get?
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:12 AM   #47
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Making power at 8000rpm is hard. You need a huge centrifugal blower, a lot of port work, big cams, or a combination of at least two of those things. Most people do not spin the motor this hard.

FOOTNOTE: VVT users MUST adhere to a strict 7400rpm limit due to an intake cam harmonic. Change the intake cam and you may press past that limit.

More info on VVT harmonic issue? I have stock VVT cams and rev to 8000RPM and soon will rev to 8500RPM.
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:13 AM   #48
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IIRC: Stock VVT (01+) intake cam has been found to induce destructive harmonic oscillations somewhere between 7500 and 7600 RPMs. Fae, hold your rpms at about 7500 RPMs for a couple minutes, and let us know what happens!!

Messiah, your ATI damper questions should be answered in the original postings of this thread. The only benefit you'll see on an otherwise stock engine is a reduction in NVH near the top end.

Last edited by fooger03; 06-09-2011 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:33 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
IIRC: Stock VVT (01+) intake cam has been found to induce destructive harmonic oscillations somewhere between 7500 and 7600 RPMs. Fae, hold your rpms at about 7500 RPMs for a couple minutes, and let us know what happens!!

Messiah, your ATI damper questions should be answered in the original postings of this thread. The only benefit you'll see on an otherwise stock engine is a reduction in NVH near the top end.
Riighht. I mean, have cams been exploding or something? And if so, whose cams? Do they like, make a special fat lady singing noise at that RPM? Generally, I am at 7500RPM for a tenth of a second.
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:16 PM   #50
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I answered this question the last time you asked it, too. It hammers out the intake valve seats.
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Old 06-09-2011, 07:56 PM   #51
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i really like that you rated stock rods at 250tq, too many people rate them at 250whp and thats simply not correct. You should also note that with higher flowing tubular manifolds and larger turbos more power can be made on stock internal parts, less tq and less heat. Theres a big difference in what the engine goes through making 250whp on a begi s mani with a 2560 then a miata making 250whp on a custom mani with for instance a presicion 6057.
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:02 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
More info on VVT harmonic issue? I have stock VVT cams and rev to 8000RPM and soon will rev to 8500RPM.
Dibs on your head.
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:02 PM   #53
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So are there recipes for track ready, reliable cars at say 200, 250, 300 whp? Or is tune too variable to say, "Put on these parts and you can tack it all day without having to worry about breaking stuff"? I know this is pretty much completely different, but in the Supra community there is basically a parts list for achieving intervals of 100hp.
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:44 PM   #54
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You could do what was suggested to make a streetable 200/250/300 hp, and then figure out what you need to do to take it from "streetable" to "trackable" Since this is a drivetrain thread, if I wanted to keep my answer on topic, I would list all of the drivetrain modifications required to make your miata "trackable". So I will do that:
o Oil Cooler

That's it. Your Miata engine is now racetrack ready. If you start becoming a faster racetrack driver, you will want to upgrade your exhaust/turbo hardware as well.
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:57 AM   #55
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Bookmarked!
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:20 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
o Oil Cooler
At what point would the factory 1.8 one on the oil filter not be enough? By "oil cooler" do you mean the factory one, or a fancy thermostat controlled oil to air?
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:10 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion ZyGarian View Post
At what point would the factory 1.8 one on the oil filter not be enough?
Umm...the point at which you decide to go to a real life race track...
Going from anything else to lapping a race track can't be described as taking the cooling requirements from 90% to 100%. A much more accurate comparison would be to say that you're taking those requirements from 10% to 100%.

Cooling Stresses (percentages made up by me, but inspired by a true story):
Drag Racing: 2%
Highway cruising: 8%
Autocross: 6-10%
Your grandma on a race track: 70%
Fast driver on a race track: 112%

Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion ZyGarian View Post
By "oil cooler" do you mean the factory one, or a fancy thermostat controlled oil to air?
Fancy.
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:53 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Snake333 View Post
Ha ha someone build their engine and was running a gt2560?! lol that's too funny
Unfortunately for you I believe he is refering to the OP
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:10 PM   #59
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I have a supercharged 90 that I built a couple of years ago and Just purchased a 99 sport w a hole on the block, I have a botom end core for the 99 and a complete VTT motor & Harness siting in my garage. The plan is to build a turbo like the one on the atached photo that i made for a friend's 1.6 , 10 - 12 PSI and rebuild a motor with scat roods , CP 9:1 pictons and build a turbo manifold and exhaust for a Brog Worner 179155 Turbo EFR-6258; 62c/58t, intercooler, injectors, megasquirt, coolant re-route, radiator
My question is, what engine makes the best starting point and final
Pakage? Is the VTT worth the extra work to install and wire in a 99 car?
Use for the car will be a fair weather driver, auto cross and ocational track day like my SC NA.
http://s1084.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share
http://s1084.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share

Thanks for the advice.
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:00 AM   #60
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The VVT will help you spool sooner, it will add more torque through nearly the entire RPM band.

The blocks are pretty much identical from 94 to 05, the heads make the difference. If you're going to rebuild it anyways, then there's no need to worry about compression from one year to the next. If you are capable and willing to tune the VVT head, you won't be sorry you did. Dive into that long block.
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