1/4 mile (12.98 @ 106 w/10psi)
 

Excuses first:

-poor driving
-warm weather (92°F, 55%RH)
-5 year old BFG drag stones
-only 10psi for some odd reason
-2490lbs total

Attachment 212659
(it appears that photobucket has been hacked)

60' 1.915
1/8 8.3458@84.70
1/4 12.981@106.26

Some minor line lock action:

Dude.. Good time for 10psi.. Nothing to be ashamed of!

details on setup perhaps? 10psi doesnt mean shit.

i know right....

helluva good time man, need details on this setup!

It's just that mathematically for the weight and mph (I trapped 108mph on the last run with a horrible 60') I should have been in the 12.6x range.


Ouch!

Fine, here's the whole story:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11402

Cliff Notes:
1996 1.8 & Torsen w/ 197K miles in a bent 91 chassis
eBay Chinacharger T3/T4
Chinese exhaust manifold
Tial 38mm wg vta
full 3" exhaust, Dynomax straight through
eBay 18x12x3 core intercooler
new gen HKS SSQV bov
6spd (thanks Ben!)
standalone ecu
Walbro 255/550's/diy single feed rail/Mallory 4309 regulator
line lock

Average 26-29mpg, 31mpg when attempting to drive nicer. Autox as much as possible.

About one year and 8500 miles on most of this setup.

i so need to get to a track.....curves or no curves, just wanna run through the damn gears and impress my ladies......by ladies i mean men.

Nice times!

tell me, why didnt i expect anything better from you? :jerkit::giggle:

now im wondering how much longer this thing will last... not bad for ebay crap though :)

Awesome! Makes me want drag radials real bad.

Bent 91 chassis?

Been to the dyno? Sub-13 is serious fast.

BTW, sell that fucking torsen ASAP. It's worth $600 right now and it won't be worth shit in a few more launches. Pick up an open '94 diff and swap an Rx7 LSD into it.

actualy sav he is in croatia or some other destitute country devoid of most rx7's so the torsen is one of his few options besides shinny new stuff.
Awesome time for 10 psi btw :bowdown:

Lol... horrible run.... eh. I ran a 13.75 at 109 basically with a 2.26 60ft... if you wanna talk about crappy runs :p

Nice time though :)

The car came with a salvage title and hit hard in the back. I can't always hit the alignment numbers I want on the right rear.

No dyno, maybe if there is a really cheap local dyno day.

It does bother me that people are blowing up Torsens. Considering the car gets 15-30 full on drag radial/R compound launches a month I am a little worried. I also feel that it's driveline shock that breaks things. My co-driver and I never drop the clutch, we slip it for 5'-10'. The other thing is that I run the wimpiest clutch/pp that will hold the power, which currently is a Exedy stage 1 organic on a 1.6 aluminum flywheel. Won't chirp the tires in 3rd gear but has never slipped even after being launched hard 8-10 times in one hour.

Years ago I broke a trans input shaft on my street slick shod RX-3 w/ puck clutch and race pressure plate. This happened in 2nd gear but the damage was probably done while doing 4th gear chirps and many burnouts while holding the brake. Thus the line lock in evey play car since.

I do have feelers out for the RX-7 diff. I've come close a couple times.

Last year I got a 1.99 60' on 195/60-14 Fuzion HRi's on daisies!

The first time I ran the five year old 225/50-15 BFG drag radials my best 60' was a 2.17 with an average of 2.25.

With the line lock and the ability to heat them a little, they did better this time. Still, with fresher drag radials or maybe the autox tires it should get a tenth or two on the 60'.

To make the launch more consistent and easier to control I'm thinking of hooking up the left horn button to activate smoother/lower boost. So I can hold the button on launch then release it when shifting to second gear.

Nice times.

Which line lock do you use? Have it plumbed right where the proportioning valve is?

Any wheel hop issues? I could not even do a good burnout at the track with out the rear trying to hop and I had to get out of it.

Whats the suspension setup?

I'm using the Summit brand line lock.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

The stock prop valve is gone, I've got a Summit brand (rebadged Wilwood I think) adjustable prop valve on the rear brakes. It made a HUGE difference in braking.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I went from horrible wheel hop to almost none.

I need to spend the time to get my pictures together and make new thread on my wheelhop. In a nutshell, the cast spacer between the bottom of the diff and the ppf was split. The cause of that was an egged out hole on the ppf. The cause of that was probably a loose bolt. Pretty sure the car came that way. So changing the bushings to the Mazda comps, heavily welding up the 2nd cracked spacer, replacing the ppf (I had one laying around, otherwise I would have fixed the old one by welding and drilling/grinding) fixed things up pretty good.

Considering I autox a lot, my suspension is very underdeveloped. OTS konis, stock cut springs (probably way too stiff for the bumpy lot we run in), no rear bar, RB front hollow bar.

I didn't play with the shock settings at the strip. Someday I will. I should have put the rear on full stiff just to see the difference. The car does squat so to keep the weight transfer to the rear may help with the first gear traction.

Burnout:
Get a line lock, then do the burnout like the fast V8 guys. Drive around the water, back up into the waterbox, slowly spin the tires just a couple revolutions to wet things, drive forward a few feet to get out of the box. Pump and hold the brakes hard, engage linelock, release brake. Select 2nd gear, depending on where you make some tq, rev the motor and take the slack out of the driveline by easing the clutch out to the engagement point then release the clutch moderately hard. Modulate the throttle, keep the wheel speed up - this reduces hop. After you feel you've hurt your tires enough or are done impressing the kids, release the linelock and as you roll forward hit the gas hard to carry it out. Don't cross the staging beams or start line unless you run faster than a 10.0 ET. It's just track etiquette.

San Antonio, Croatia? Funny, never heared of it haha...
You are thinking of Davor, he is from Croatia, drives an NB too.
Dvcn is from good ol' Tejas!

nice run man 10 psi is the engine stock?

197k miles, stock except for the exhintake cam & fidanza cam gears.

Up until a couple weeks ago I ran 12-13psi all the time. I turned it down to 10psi until I collect rebuild parts (rods). It's a pretty big reduction in power.

Thanks for the info on the line lock. Did you swap the ends of the existing brake lines to1/8 or use an adapter?

I used a couple of adaptors and the rest was cut and double flare. It's good to have a couple extra stock lines/flare nuts on hand.

Adding the line lock does mess with the front brake operation a little. It makes the pedal a bit stiffer. Even though the 'wisdom' said to just run straight through on the prop valve, I'm really glad I added the adjustable. There were a couple of autox's that I went through the finish at full boost in 3rd gear (on the 5spd) and I was glad I was able to fine tune the braking to avoid smacking the cars in grid.

Adaptors: The 10mm x 1.0mm inverter metric flare is difficult to find. I went through a lot to find them. Now, FM has them in stock after being out for quite a while. Get them now while they have them. But don't be afraid of doing the double flair, it's not that hard. Go to Autozone and borrow their kit for free and follow the instructions on the box.

dvcn; first of all congrats on your 1/4 mile times! :bigtu:

Would you mind sharing some info on your Wolf 3DV4 ecu?

- Why did you decide on that particular EMS?
- What has been your experience so far?
- Have you used any other EMS that you may compare it to?

Thanks

I went with the Wolf because..... my wife won it in a raffle at Sevenstock. It works ok, it's programmed in 'Aussie' (my Aussie friends, I have great respect for you!), there are a lot of nonintuitive settings and the support base is very small for it. I had a Haltech F9A on a 1st gen RX-7. (I have to post up some really good line lock videos of that)

I don't know a lot about the MegaSquirt, but I don't think there is any better choice. The support here is great, you don't have to reinvent the wheel and figure everything out for yourself. I believe the MS has features that blow the Wolf away. An autotune function is worth every penny.

My car does not run as smoothly as an oem, but that's because I'm lazy. It makes some power even though it's way too rich on boost and gets really good gas mileage, so it's good enough that I don't want to spend the effort to make it perfect. Autotune would make it easy.

Thanks for replying. I run an AEM now and I have decided not to change it. I was just curious.

Regarding your car not running as smoothly as an oem; maybe it also has to do with the aggressive cams? ;)

BTW, I'm surprised about your mpgs; that was one of the reasons I asked about your EMS.

If your ecu does what you need it to do, I'd leave it.

I have lean spots that makes the car buck a bit, but it probably adds to the gas mileage. I need to fix my temp corrections.

The exhintake cam may do something but I don't think it's worth the time, trouble and cost if you are turbo. Turn up the boost 1/4-1/2psi and you've probably covered the benefit of the cam. Besides, the cam timing that the low budget guys (drill new indexing hole in stock gear) gives the wrong setting for a FI setup, IMHO. That setup is for NA and gives more overlap. We want less overlap and to open the exhaust a bit early.

I'm running a straight exhaust, that allows me to run leaner than 14.7 on cruise without hurting certain exhaust components.

The last tank I only got 23.9mpg. I had turned the boost back up to 12-13psi, had to do 'testing' of the water injection and did a double driver autox. To and from the autox total car weight is probably 2900-3000lbs(co-driver, 4 wheels/tires, tire rack, jack, 30lbs of tools, 9 gallons of water, EZ up, misting system for EZ up, chairs, helmets, shoes, lunch, etc) . Can't complain!

dvcn, since you've been so patient with me I'm going to ask you one final question regarding your turbo. FWIW, I already read your previous thread on the matter.

I'm more and more inclined to follow in your footsteps about the ebay chinacharger. I have a great Garrett T3 super .60 but I can't get it to spool earlier than 4,200 RPMs even with my straight thru 2.5" exhaust (we don't have any local emissions regulations). I read you make boost at around 3,200 RPMs with the one you posted. I've found some turbos on ebay but I'm thinking about going with one with a smaller compressor size and the same turbine size as the one you picked. Any comments?

Sorry to bother.

Regards,

Rafa

I know pretty little about turbo selection. I went with something that someone else, markp, used with success in the power range that I wanted. You'll probably get better info on your T3 from others.

I feel that the full 3" exhaust really helps spool. On other factory turbo cars I've had, every little exhaust improvement made a noticeable difference on spool and power. I suppose that it's possible that my cam timing makes a difference on spool but I haven't done real tests.

I don't think early spool is the end all. I wouldn't want a turbo that had full boost at very low rpm and would be worthless on the top end. The oem turbos I've had really had no upper end power. The current setup hits pretty hard and there isn't a noticable dropoff in power, all the way to the 7400rpm fuel cut.

I don't really condone the use of the chinacharger. I think I'm lucky, so far. If you can afford a better turbo, get it. The oil seals are fine but the bearings are definitely looser than a year ago. I'm going to run it until it quits, whenever that may be. I'm just one data point.

dvcn, once again thanks for your reply. I want to make just a comment and then I'll let you go; what you mention above is the key to me. Let me explain myself:

I think I have the perfect turbo right now for a built 1.8L engine. The problem is that my engine is fine (64,000 miles on it) and only facing overheating issues that I'm tackling but the internals are still as good as new; therefore, I figure I have 1 more year with a stock engine and this is the time to try different spools because I'm certain that in the end I'm going to build the engine. That's why it makes sense to me to buy 2 cheap turbos with different specs and give them a try ;)

I've undersold the chinacharger. I am thrilled with its performance and can't wait until I rebuild this 197k (oil burning, rings probably ready to go) motor with good rods so I can feel good about turning up the boost.

I just don't want to be reponsible if anyone happens to get one of the bad ones.

There are places that rebuild them, but like you said, a new one on eBay would cost half as much.

Friend of mine runs the same turbo as yours dvcn for well over a year now, and he has had great success and beats on his car extremely hard (many track sessions, drift events, autocrosses, etc). In all honesty, if I were to do my build over again, I would go with a Chinacharger

wolf ems file
 

Any chance of getting a copy of your current file in the wolf? I am looking to that ecu in a 1.6 miata boosted with a Greddy turbo, and would appreciate a starting point from which to tune.
drgoodwrench@gmail.com
http://www.racecages.com/News/Entrie...files/door.jpg

Do you currently have the Wolf 3dV4? Even if you got it for free, sell it. Got it for $500? Sell it, even at a loss. The MS is a much better choice, not only for what it can do, mostly for the support you can get here.

You will get near zero support on the Wolf, especially from Wolf. I don't know anyone else in the U.S. running it on a miata. I know two people in Australia.

My 1.6 maps are for NA. My current boosted 1.8 maps are very rough but I'll send you the latest of both. Might take me a day, I have to pull the map.

Nice Job Man....

Mark

PS - Hopefully my miata will run today.

You still owe me a ride in your car!