330rwhp/258rwtq -- 1.8 motor w/1.6 Lysholm SC (upped boost)
 

Went up from a 120mm to 125mm pulley on the crankshaft to up the boost a bit. Was rewarded with 30 more rwhp.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341257603

Interesting, were these custom made pieces or from a different year/model engine?

What's the blower RPM?

Tom @ FFS makes bolt on 6-rib pulleys in a variety of diameters off the shelf. These are just his parts.

Crank pulley is now 125mm diameter, the SC pulley is 3.125" (79.375mm). Doing the math, that looks like circumferences of 392.7mm for the crank and 249.4mm for the SC. So, 1.575 ratio. 8000 RPM redline for the crank = ~12600 RPMs on the SC.

Ban for supercharging.

Q: How do I make my car look good on a dyno but unresponsive on the street?
A: Turbocharging.

Q: How do I make my car fast everywhere?
A: Supercharging.

(Ban for universal counterstatements) :D

Nice curve.
How much boost?

It seems to peak out around 18.5ish. It's hard to tell exactly. I don't know if it's something to do with having two many things off one small vacuum line, or if it's because a twin screw gives boost in such discrete packeted chunks, but the boost level on datalogs (and the analog boost gauge in the car) fluctuates by like 1.5ish psi in either direction.

:drool::bowdown:

WOW.

trollololol

How about posting your setup instead of a dyno plot without a single clue on what it takes to get there.

Gotta say though, your plot is very impressive.

I just forwardededed this to the internet police. Consequences will never be the same.

In before ban.

Im also curious about how you accomplished this. As well as the associated cost.

Can you show your datalogs?

Post #56 on here (https://www.miataturbo.net/random-su...e3/) has more general details, but the full details are on my wiki (Main Page - DestinationSSM).

I've attached a pic of the datalog zoomed in on one of the later pulls and also a zip file of the full datalog if you want to look at it in AEMLog.

Oh my you need a MAP filter, badly.

I didn't even know that was a real thing. It just seemed like something that would be useful. :)

Any suggestions? Some quick googling isn't yielding much. Is it a homebrew type thing, or do you just use like one of the little inline tiny fuel filter thingies?

Look here
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...circuit-48665/
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...p-waves-35902/

you can tee the map sensor vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. generally, that's the best place.

my turbo makes same amount of TQ at 3k rpm, and more everywhere else. what boost?

Very interesting. Simple enough circuit to build. I'll have to give it a shot after the Packwood Pro next weekend on both there and my TPS (I get the same noisy crap on my TPS as you did.)

Now I just need a solution to why my crank angle sensor hates the 12+1 wheel. :)

Thanks for the help!

I have a custom manifold... There's one vacuum port I made near the manifold inlet, and it goes to the MAP sensor, the AFPR, and a boost gauge inside the car.

If you're only making 318whp, then you're making less somewhere. :)

Start with mechanical (pneumatic) filtering.
The FPR tee tap location is a good one. If you still have noise, put a small restrictor in the vac line nearest the vac source. My buddy used a skinny polypropylene(?) line instead of regular rubber vac hose, and that worked for him. I think he got it from FM.

BTW that much noise in your MAP signal is gonna screw up your fueling. You may find your fueling will change after fixing the problem, but it will be consistent.

I have a stock head but, yeah, my TQ drops off at high rpm. I need VVT and/or custom manifold.

You seriously need to post more specs...

Or you could slow that charger down a bit before it blows apart and add a trubo..


Impressive numbers.












Edit: Uhhhhh...... $41,727.63?? ---- me!!!

Impressive.

I want pics!!!

someone doesnt understand how math works...

Quite the opposite... He said "my turbo makes same amount of TQ at 3k rpm, and more everywhere else". Not even seeing his dyno plot, just seeing his sig that he made 318whp, and knowing I made 330whp, that means that, by definition, I'm making more torque somewhere in my curve and that his statement was false.

It's only going like 12500 RPMs -- that's way below the redline for the SC. It's a 1.6L unit, not the 1.2L that most people are using on Miatas.

Also, really confused what statement you're making with the Edit. :)

Copied from my wiki:

The motor started life as a stock smoking 99 motor from Panic Motorsports. It was then fully rebuilt with the following:

Block:
2002 Oil Pan
2002 Oil Pan Support Plate
2002 Oil Pump
949 Racing Rods
Wiseco Coated Pistons
ACL Main Bearings
ACL Rod Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs (218-5401)

Head:
Supertech 1mm Oversize Valves
Supertech valve springs/retainers/seats

The full rotating assembly was also balanced, without the clutch/flywheel, and then clutch/flywheel were balanced on the crank against themselves.

Induction/Exhaust:
Lysholm 1600AX (1.6L twin screw, last generation, not Whipple's newest, the W100AX)
Custom Corky Bell intake manifold
RB header
Custom 3" stainless exhaust

you make exact same HP at 7K, where he lifted. that's like dividing by zero!

By that logic, my dad's truck's curve owns mine too. It just stops at 3000 RPMs, and the fact that mine goes to 8000 and keeps making power the whole way is irrelevant. :)

His is a turbo setup, on stock cams. From 7-8 it's going to drop like a rock, if his motor build can even support safely running that high.

In any event, as I've stated, I'll still take my responsiveness over more torque. If I want more torque, all I need to do is keep bumping the boost, or upgrade to the W100AX, or jump to E85. All of these things are cheap compared to the 42k I've already put into the car. The issue with autocross is having too much torque to be usable. I'm slowly ramping up the torque 10% at a time until I run into a point that it's not usable anymore.

1st gear used to almost have traction on the old tune on asphalt, and now it doesn't, but 2nd gear still has good traction in a straight line. I can probably do another 10% bump and still be fine, but it might also make it harder to drive since I'll be buried into the traction control even more. Baby steps. :)

do it!

You have a traction control system? Racelogic?

Yeah, building a competitive autox car is an EXPENSIVE hobby.

Yeah. Racelogic is in there. I'm slowly getting it tuned to be better and better. You can hear the ignition burbling on tight corners with me trying to get power down and the RL telling me NO CAN HAZ.

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::r ofl::rofl::rofl: