Dyno'd now what?
 

I got my car on the dyno today. I was a little disappointed but oh well. I didn't get a log on the dyno. However I did take a log right before the dyno. I was hoping you guys could take a look and see if I can do anything to improve my tune. Should I just add more boost now? I'll post the dyno sheet in a minute I have to switch computers to upload the tune.

My setup is a diy log manifold, 2.5" straight pipe exhaust, megasquirt 2, and rx-8 injectors.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1350782863
IMAG0972 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

The blue was in 4th the red he did in 3rd to see if I'd pick up some more power

Ummm what were the numbers you are disappointed in?

Sorry had to switch pc's. It's in the first post now.

Wow something's being choked off. By straight through exhaust, did you mean no cat? Something looks plugged cause you have no power up top. HP should continually increase. Mine flat-lined with a cat and crush bent 2.5" exhaust. Yours is even worse, actually loosing power above 5k. Even looks like it might be 4500.

Yucky.

your VE sucks or your boost control sucks. pathetic. Thanks

Pathetic is not dynoing at your own dyno day...

By straight I mean 2.5" with just a borla muffler. Yeah I thought something was weird too... Stefanst suggested that it could have something to do with me not being able to control the vvt and it being stuck in low rpm modeb or something. I don't know I'll post my map and you can take a look. I was actually pretty happy with my map. Boost control is managed by the wastegate. I also want to do a compression test again.

It looks like the only time you floored it in that log was a couple 4000-5000rpm pulls which is going to be pretty much impossible to guess what's going on. Go do a 2000-7000 pull and post it up with a MSQ and the kind souls of MT will likely bless you with an additional 30whp.

Sadface :(

Run1.msq was a 2nd gear pull till I hit the limiter. Run2.msq has a 3rd gear pull but I only got to about 6200rpm...though the issue seems pretty evident...boost drop :(
Edit: I guess the numbers aren't so bad for a car running 10-9psi..

what year/engine?

2001 1.8l. I guess I can try another mbc.

Reminds me of this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...eed-ebc-47532/

Where are you pulling you wastegate signal from?

I'm pulling it right behind the throttle body. The line that used to be connected the evap canister in the engine bay. My boost controller definitely does nothing. I bought a new spring and thought I fixed but I guess it wasn't stiff enough :(

I think it's a general consensus not to apply vacuum to your wastegate actuator.
Should be sourced somewhere between the intercooler and throttlebody where there should never be vacuum.

Well I have a mbc between there and the wastegate I assume this would act as a check valve? I don't know I can try sourcing it from the turbo.

Good point.

I would try sourcing it somewhere else though, just to check.

there is absolutely nothing wrong with his current source.

more info on ebay t3 turbo?

I'll try and find a link for it. I believe its the same as a Godspeed t3 .48ar. It was only ever ment to be a place holder while I built my new setup and looked for a new turbo.

Did you read the part about it being POST throttle plate? I believe the general consensus is that pre throttle plate is the ideal location. Either one is much better than a compressor location.

I've tried sources everywhere on the manifold including directly behind the mani before and pre-tb too and there was no difference.

He's dropping off like he has a massive leak somewhere or something, or completely choking off somewhere. Boost signal wouldn't affect this nearly as significantly.

Here's a link to the turbo I have... T3 INTERNAL WASTEGATE TURBO CHARGER .48ar [TC-022] - $350.00 : GodSpeed Project, The Art of Performance

Not that it has much info.

I'll check for holes in my intercooler pipes... Though I thought I sorted that out after the first time it happened to me :facepalm: Also noticed some weird chattery like noise. I believe it's coming from my clutch. If I slip the clutch slowly while stationary the noise stops, though sometimes I don't get the noise at all. I don't know, I have an FM level 1 so It should be fine, only been in there for a year.

That noise is most likely your throw out bearing just barely touching the pressure plate. Does it go away when you slightly touch the pedal?

I don't think it's the throwout bearing. It sounds like something knocking on something else. But like I said it doesn't do it all the time. At first I thought it was my exhaust rattling just a little but I don't think that's the case. Again as soon as I engage the clutch it goes away. I'll try and get a video of it sometime this week.

My car makes a weird racket too...it's not my clutch, it's not DET, it sounds heat shieldish, but not sure what.

Where's the log of the pull that simply can prove/disprove the wastegate/boost control is functioning properly?

and am I ready correctly? You have VVT but you're not controlling it?

I tested my mbc and any change I made did not affect boost at all. So I turned up wastegate. In in the log run2.msq you can see boost spikes to about 200kpa and then immediately drops off again. Yes I have an ms2 built before there was the ability to control vvt

the inability to maintain boost doesn't help, the VVT not being controlled doesn't help either.

get the VVTuner STAT.


Here's the VVT full retard vs full advance:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1350919194


youre running full advance...i'd prefer both. But your leaving TONs of power on the table but not controlling your cam properly, not to even mention controlling the turbo speed.

I'm masturbating to this

Fitting the VVT head in your case could result in spool like your first EFR and the top-end of the current.

I'd gladly fap to that

I bet the vvt bigger turbo spool would be even better than the smaller turbo spool.


OP: setting up VVT for boost is easy. Basically retard the cam until 2000RPM. Advance the cam fully until the RPM that the turbo is almost fully spooled. Retard fully after that.

Don't fully advance or retard the cam in a short RPM window. Go from full retard to full advance in 1000RPM.

For your turbo, fully advance the cam fully by 2500RPM, then retard fully after 3500RPM.

After you set this up, you will need to redo your fuel table. It shouldn't go dangerously lean while you tune this, but regardless keep an eye on your AFRs.

If you have nice high oil pressure, you'll be able to advance the cam even sooner. Which is better.


I don't know jack shit about tuning VVT for cruise. I drive flat out.

lolol sry couldn't resist:giggle:

Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking about having reverant upgrade my ms2 anyways. I guess I'll just deal with it until I get my new setup on the car. If I wanted to go about switching from full retard to full advance, just to see if there's a difference on the street, how would I go about doing this?

Buy, install, tune the VVTuner?

Ah, didn't know if it was a setting I could change now. Makes sense.

I dunno either, I'm sure you can trip a solenoid?

Eh, it's extra work. My car, slow as it might be is still faster then a lot of other "sports cars". Also it's an excuse to buy new parts.

You fucking suck

I bet you that your car drives like shit. It doesnt hold power to redline and it probably drives like a limp dick.

You could actually have a power curve but instead you pussy out and wont install a stupid solenoid. Fail

Also i bet you lose to most new sports cars with your fail power curve.

Thanks for your generous words of wisdom.

I'm faster then 350/370's and dead even with my friends 335is. I don't like half assing things

I gave him props for it.

Your ftfy.

I are sad because it am true.

0_0;

350z's are slow.:jerkit:

Not with a new 335i with a crappy reflash you aren't. 170hp doesn't do that.

I know but it makes 350's feel bad when I bet them. And yes its a 2011 BMW 335is, and yes I keep up with him.