Homebrew KIT - 270rwhp/214tq
 

Here is my 90 turbo miata... which has been in various states of progression over the past 8 years. When I first started (2000) I couldn’t afford a KIT, or didn’t like what was available. I’ve done things right, done a lot wrong – but here is my experience :)

270.7 rwhp / 214.8 tq 15psi

Stock 1.6

BEGI cast manifold ( circa 2000 )

Ford SVO Mustang T3

3” DP/ Exhaust

RC 550’s, Vishnu Rail, Vortec FPR, Walboro pump

TEC II ECU, Blitz SBC, Tial 38mm Wastgate, HKS pro BOV

Custom IC.


Should have done from Day 1:

Started with a 1.8L miata
Bought a dual feed rail
Stand alone ECU
Tuned on the Dyno!

Since the stock 1.6L threw a rod, I’m in the process of building a complete bottom end and will be targeting much higher power levels. :)

why is it so god damn difficult to put your fucking location in your profile?


nice #'s btw.

didnt know it mattered :P

about 600 ft above sea level.

cool. I watched ALMS at RA a couple weeks ago.

Got a dyno plot? When does that thing spool and what boost did you run?

posted Dyno run...

Still needed some love in the tuning dept... but it threw a rod a few months later LOL

Spool, less then stellar. I was given the turbo free 8 years ago. The exhaust housing has an internal crack radially that probally didnt help. Also, flanged leaked on the turbo inlet. So ... it can only get better.

I'm giving the chinacharger a shot first before I rebuild this unit. stay tuned....

Thats kinda risky. I had one but not for very long.

My Garrett seems to take a lot more abuse.More money but I think a good name brand is the way to go.

My Mitsubishi was pretty good too,till I blew my motor and starved it of oil. I wouldn't get a no-name turbo.

Was it the .48 or .63 turbine housing?

it was a .63 - stock ford svo Garrett.

Dyno'ed the chincharger - have boost creep. Its probally the outlet on the exhaust turbine housing - will open it up this weekend.

But, it did do 320 rwhp @ 22psi (7000 rpm)

stay tuned.

did it throw a rod just becuase of power? At least that supports our assumption that stock internals don't like above 230 hp.

I believe the tec2 wiring faulted out, leaning out that cylinder. Detonation = extreme cylinder pressure = compromised rod.

IMO, the stock rods are good for over 250 IF it never detonates OR it is never stretched due to over revving. In the past 8 years I have been through 3 1.6L, and all rod failures were cylinder #4 and had signs of extreme detonation ( broken ring lands, cracked rings ). This past motor was pushing 270 for the last 3 years, until the ECU wiring fault.

That being said, with the price of good aftermarket rods/piston combos in the $700 range its almost a wash to build a bottom end instead of running a junkyard special - which is what the last one was :)

for those on a time budget, I really think the combination of dual feed rail / and reverse coolant routing can help a motor survive past the 250+ mark.

Is that with a .63 A/R exhaust housing? spool up looks nothing like mine. I expect to see the exact same numbers on Friday at 15 pounds.

The dyno plot from the 8-21 post should be ignored. Manifold to turbo inlet was leaking, Exhaust turbine housing also had an internal radial crack at the casting parting line.

The latest post ( 10-8 ) was a chinacharger, supposedly a T3/T4 TO4E 50 trim.

Upon further verification, it turned out to be this:

Compressor A/R .50
Inducer 47.5
Exducer 76.2
which works out to a .39 trim ???

Turbine A/R .63
Inducer 55.88
Exducer 65.5
which works out to a .73 trim ???

I may have the Turbine #'s mislabeled depending on how you interpret the Garret turbo tech site.... but mathematically it was a .73

I have no idea were this falls in the line of true Garretts - but I will run it until winter, and decide to upgrade based on future dyno results. This weekend we will dyno again, so Ill start a new thread with full details.

Stock internals?

Good numbers.

Current shortblock is...

GTX rods / Wiseco - balanced. Thats it.

Still waiting on the GB Oil Pump Gears to come in....

Ok, Chincharger wastegate outlet was 2 mm smaller than the Garret. Opened it up to Garrett + dimensions, radiused direction of flow and boost creep is gone. :)

finally I can get back to the dyno.

That's some pretty sweet numbers, especially for a 1.6. Good job. Need pics of engine bay, etc. Like you did, I want to push the stock engine and see how much it will take.