I'm going in, cover me... (Built 1.8L GT2871)
 

At long last I will be taking the '99 NB to the dyno tomorrow. I'll be using the Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer (load bearing, eddy current) located at Henderson Performance in New Braunfels. Cory, the dyno owner, will be operating the dyno, and representatives from BEGI will be present to assist with tuning. I'll be driving WARI to adjust the Adaptronic maps.

The goal is 300+ RWHP, but above all to make it a strong, non-marginal tune on 93 oct pump gas. We will tune for MBT and knock onset (whichever comes first) without the water injection, then back off a couple of degrees. Then I will add the water injection on top of that for additional margin. This is a daily driver so the goal is fast but reliable.

Build Details:

Short block:
1999 NB 1.8L
Stock Crank (meanest stock crank on MT.N)
Belfab rods
FM Wiseco pistons, 9:1
all balanced

Cylinder head:
1999 cylinder head
Supertech oversized valves, undercut
Supertech Valve springs and titanium keepers
Stock 1999 cams and pulleys

Induction/Exhaust:
DIY cowl induction
DIY v-mount Ebay intercooler with DIY charge plumbing
Tial-Q BOV
DIY gutted 1999 manifold (no more VICS)
1100cc (each) Bosch EV14 injectors from Fuel Injection Clinic
Port water injection (8 GPH total, DO recirc style pump, Aquamist high-speed valve controlled by Adaptronic)
BEGI S4 tubular manifold
Garret GT2871 turbo, 0.64 A/R, Anti-surge compressor housing (ATP Turbo)
BEGI SGDP, stainless
Full Enthuza 3" stainless exhaust with high-flow cat

Drivetrain
Lightened 1.8L flywheel (inertia ring removed)
ACT XTSS clutch (flywheel and pressure plate balanced as an assembly)
Mazdaspeed 6-speed transmission
Torsen with 3.63 gearing (sweetness)

Cooling:
EBay oversized radiator (DIY v-mount)
Spal 11" low profile fans with DIY cowl
DIY Coolant reroute. Thermostat regulated heater core loop, dual oil-to-water oil cooler sandwich.
Fully ducted between radiator and nose

Electronics:
Adaptronic ECU (parallel, controls everything but A/C, alternator, and cruise).
DIY Toyota COPs
Fresh NGK BKR7EIX (Iridium IX) plugs gapped to 0.030"
Innovate LC-1 WBO2 (logged)
Innovate TC-4 Thermocouple Reader (logged),
Thermocouple in exhaust flow, located in exhaust collector before turbine inlet
Electronic Boost Controller (Adaptronic controlled) with Manual boost controller in parallel (hybrid)
DIY electronic detonation can with input into stereo. Bosch knock detector.
Asus EEe PC tuning laptop
Lots of gauges

Dyno plots to follow soon. Wish me luck.

INNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

for results

OMG I'm getting antsy already

11.5:1 afr, conservative spark considering you have 180* pickups. You also want 11.5:1 on enrichment. If anyone disagrees with you, they're wrong.

Agreed, thanks. I am shooting for 11:1 - 11.5:1 especially at higher boost levels, say above 10 psi. Considering the monster injector size that should be easy to do. I am not going super aggressive/marginal extract-that-last-2%-of-power on the spark table. I do not want to risk knock if there is a WI failure. I am making this very clear up front. This is a South Texas DD, not a dyno queen.

Trey are you going to be in the area? You should drop by.

Sweet, I'd be interested with the numbers!

IN for results. Sounds sweet.

Nice! Definitely 300+

I'm either crewing for a chumpcar race or going to OKC for flooding party.

In for updates!

Good luck bro! In for results.

Is .030 a tight enough plug gap?

.030 should be fine with COPs.

It's about time we see some results from your awesome build! I've had a personal interest in how this will do.

I'm interested in seeing what happens with the .64 A/R on the hotside.

Good luck!

So far 0.030" has been fine. No blowout up to 18 psi with the COPs. If it does I'll regap them, only takes a few minutes, although the plugs will be hot :)

Nice!! In for results mang.

You're gonna like it!
Stephanie

K so where's these numbers?

Hey man, my buddy has a truck if you got stranded.:riaa:

I'll cut to the chase
~290 RWHP @ 18psi. Corrected only for altitude, added about 10 HP. I guesstimate ~340BHP. This is on a Dyno Dynamics dyno, so presumably it would read higher on a Dynojet. Water injection is off.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jh2HiMm4nKQ/TB.../dyno_plot.png

This is with conservative timing, about 14 degs advanced @ 18 psi. There is a lot more there with more boost and timing but I like my engine, trans, and diff in their current state. It's pretty quick, spins the tires in third @ 50 mph.

EDIT: Forgot to mention the AFR was 11.5:1.

Fucking awesome.

230ish WTQ at 4K RPM, and it does'nt drop velow that until about redline, Peak is what 255 or so?

On a dead-safe tune that you can drive like you stole it every damn day.

Nice.

Obligatory glowing manifold video. Crappy quality.


A post tune pull in third and fourth gear video of the tach and speedo. The speedometer is dead nuts on according to my GPS. Performed on an abandoned air strip by a professional driver with ambulances standing by.

Nice pull. I was wanting to see higher numbers but like you said you were conservative. If you run it to 7500 on the street why didn't you dyno it up to that?

Because that stock tach is probably 500+rpm inaccurate at that RPM range so he isn't really revving to 7500.

Rev limiter is set at 7500 IIRC. Operator was stopping at 7000 since we were well past the HP peak. We still essentially tuned the map above 7000.

Thanks to Corey Henderson at Henderson Performance for doing a great job operating the dyno and giving advice on tuning. He has some really serious GM and Ford V8 Corvette and Mustang action going on in his shop. Also thanks to Tim and Stephanie at BEGI for helping out with the tuning and lending a hand. It was great to have knowledgeable people there advising on the tune.

288rwhp DD on a dynojet would probably be around 322rwhp.


nice!

Looks like great fun :) Moar vids please

I have tripod mounted video of several pulls, except my MiniDV camcorder has firewire output which my current PC does not accept. Working on it...

Load dynos are great. For each pull, the operator (Corey) would run the car up to 3000 RPM in fourth gear, light throttle. He would set the dyno to hold that speed, then go to WOT. Turbo would spool, boost would build, but the dyno held the engine speed dead on 3000 RPM. He then released the RPM hold and the ramp run proceeded. That way, each run starts at full spool at that RPM. Also, we did some cruise load timing adjustments to check for MBT. Set it for 3000 rpm, held the throttle so it stayed at 100 kpa, then bumped up timing while watching for torque increases. When the torque quit increasing we stopped bumping up the timing. Also did that at 4000 rpm. Great stuff, should improve cruise mileage. I would have liked to do more of this but we were at 2.5 hours of dyno time as it was.

hell yes

Very nice man. judging by the torque/power curve and the way that needle buries into triple digits that thing is an absolute joy to drive

Using the same cf, that would WAY over 300 on a Dynojet.

You need an intake manifold so, so badly.

How much dyno time would u expect it would take for you to be 99% happy with your tune? provided you had the same person / people as u had for this run?

Good job brah! Also, where is this abandoned runway you speak of.

Hmmm... maybe 4 hours total. I think it is 95% there based on my goal of not being right on the ragged edge of knock/MBT. I could have kept going, dyno time charge aside, since I had zero trouble with coolant temperatures, and the IC would cool off fairly quickly.

Thanks. Yes it is, it accelerates very well. I'm happy with the power... for now... :giggle:

I am tempted to take it to the drag strip next. I have some Nitto drag radials on another set of rims. It would be fun to do a huge smoking burnout, then break into the 13s. If there was a good Miata drag racer (better than me) behind the wheel ***cough*** DVCN ***cough*** I think 12s would be very possible.

I remember when my car made a lot of whp...I guess it was fun.

Dude, mid-low 200s WHP on a load bearing will do 13.0 on a sub 2.0 60 foot. Your car is a 12 second car with a drunk behind the wheel so long as it gets something like a 2.0 60 foot.

double post deleted

Awesome numbers John! Congrats!

Yeah that is the thing though, my 60 foot times suck because I am nervous about leaving my trans and/or diff at the starting line.

Nice numbers, but one thing has me stumped. Is the dyno mounted in the wall? First video really throws me off.


Note: Car hauls good in the second video!

I'll never tell, at least not on the internetz.

Now I'm pissed.

The guys that I tuned with had a DD and didn't know the first thing about getting it to hold a steady RPM. the guy had some little knob he kept fucking with while I tried to franticaly tune.

Cory really knew what he was doing with the DD, not to mention he knows how to tune a car. Between him and Tim (BEGI) I was in good hands. I need to get that camcorder video posted. You can really hear how well the dyno holds RPM when he goes WOT on the throttle and the turbo spools.

ZX so are you Adaptronic fluent now?... seeing as i have a 99 now =D

You wont blow it up if you launch correctly. What kills most drivelines is when you get wheel hop. Its that rapid cycling between massive load and then spinning that kills it. Its like comparing a big weight on a nail versus a hammer hitting it. A big weight wont nesseasrily drive it in. A hammer will. If you feel juddering, push the clutch back in and try again next run.

With that turbo, you could probably launch starting at about 3K on your first run. Let the clutch out fairly quickly without dumping it, while putting the throttle down at about the same speed or a bit faster. You will probably hit something on the order of a 2.6 on the first run, and it will feel/be slow. Then dial up the RPM from there in about 400RPM increments, same basic technique. It wont kill it, and you will get a feel for how to ratio the clutch out to throttle in to avoid a bog or zooming right ot redline. It becomes intuitive after a half-dozen runs. Perhaps the runway will be a good place to do some practice? ;)

If you over-stage and have to back up, back all the way out and then go back in so that the driveline is loaded up properly.

It doesnt take a hard punishing launch to get a 2.0, it's just tricky, especially in a Miata. But even on the slow runs take a look at your trap. You will probably be in the 108-110 range, which is enough to hit 12s.

You HAVE to run it down the track! If you run those Nittos you will cut at least a 2.0 60', probably better. You will no doubt be in the 12's. I'm sure you've plugged your numbers into an ET calculator.......

Would you hand your keys to someone sitting in stands surrounded by empty 16oz'ers? Last time a friend offered up his IS-F but I couldn't grab the keys with a beer in one hand and a corndog in the other.

Congrats on the kickass setup!

If my brother can run a 12.4@118 on a FWD turbo BP mx-3 with a glass transmission and open diff, I think you can hit low 12's too.

ZX-Tex

From another boosted Miata looking to go to the track in San Antonio I'm in curious to see what the larger turbo and 22psi will do at the track. Would be nice to check out ur setup.

GETTING into 12's? You guys are fucking joking right?
He should be WELL into 12's if he can drive even remotely worth a shit.

Put your pursue down ya little Sally! :giggle:

I used to start at 4500 holding, flat foot it till 6500, and ride the clutch out while easing back off the throttle according to tire spin. Felt like high 1.8 to low 1.9's, but no official times (except a decent amount of track time in the past to compare it with).

I probably made 150+ launches that way with the 4 cylinder with the 5 speed and the weak little 7 inch torsen in this 2500 pound pig without a hiccup. Launching seemed to be fine, but I was 3 to 4 powershifts away from a box of neutrals.

The OP is hoping for it. We're just reassuring him that we know it can. ;)

Congrats! What's next?

The guys at York Automotive have a DD and know how to use it. When you were tuning cruise is seemed like he was hold cells pretty good, but I wasn't paying attention when you start doing boost as like you said, seemed like you were just doing pulls.

Dyno day in fall!

I'm hoping to strap in again next weekend at the MegasSquirt MegaMeet

strap-on, megasquirt, megameat...fag.

loud and proud.

at the rate your car is going, you should start pushing if you want to make it by fall

Good question. AIR CONDITIONING! It is getting too hot down here to DD without it. I had to remove the condenser when I was installing the v-mount system, and the stock one will not fit anymore. So I found some Ebay custom double pass units, just need to buy one, mount it, add a dryer, and get some custom lines made. Everything else is already there.

After that, I had this idea about constant torque boost tuning, that is ramp boost up at higher RPMs to hold the torque line flatter above say 5000 rpm. The Adaptronic has closed-loop boost control as a function of RPM so the capability is there. The idea is hold the torque load constant for the drive train and produce/transmit more horsepower with RPM. I definitely have the overhead to do this with the turbo and the injectors. But I have not played with closed loop boost control in the Adaptronic yet so do not hold your breath. It is just a down-the-road idea right now. Yes I know a custom intake would help flatten the torque out as well.



Thanks for the drag racing encouragement. Don't worry, DVCN is working me on the local end to do a manly run at the drag strip, so it could happen. I know he will not drive it himself, he hates driving other people's cars in fear he will blow something up. He knows what he is doing though, his Chinacharger NA has run some impressive times.

Expect to be stalked.