The ITB FE3 Dyno
 

Motor is mostly stock with just a few bolt ons, track car so doesn't need crazy power just has to work all time.

JDM FE-DOHC (technically the fe3 is a kia motor, mine is an actual mazda motor)
FE3 matching cams, 9.1mm lift ish 240 duration, fairly tame
diy 45mm itbs w/ported intake manifold, off a 2005 GSXR 1000
4-2-1 ss header
2.5" ss exhaust
mspnp

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1348543259

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPUQv...ature=youtu.be

Fucked if I can remember how to embed it, w.e

Picked up 5whp with some timing addition, leaned out the top end a bit, nothing to crazy.

Only thing Im curious about is the torque falling off so fast, cam limited maybe?

Hmmm, not half bad for a stock motor. Any vids of this thing doing work?

Dyno vid is uploading, if u search youtube for itb fe3 i have a few up

Me too. Curves look much like my boosted FE dyno. And like a boosted 99 that was transformed with a larger throttle body and intake manifold plenum. Of course that doesn't apply here. :dunno: What's your ign map look like?

Moved this to the dyno section.

Mandrel bends on that 2.5" exhaust?

Yup exhaust is mandrels, very free flowing, which accounts for all the noise it makes lol

We played with the timing on the dyno and torque was by and large unaffected up top. I'm 30-34deg on the top end

Get off MS1 and go sequential EV14.

this is how mods/admins are born.

Why's that? I doubt it will make any more power, then its just a waste of money.

I'll be doing a mildly built head this winter with cams and valvetrain then ill redyno it to see if my torque still drops off so quickly. I'm thinking the cams are choking it out as the motor was only ever rated for 140bhp and I'm making more than that at the wheels, in a rwd car non the less

Have you adjusted cam timing? I bet you can get a nice HP bump with some intake retard.

Stock cam gears and timing, adjustables are on the way :-)

To be honest, and don't take this the wrong way, but I'm actually thinking this same thing about this swap when looking at that plot: why even do it if you're keeping it n/a?

IIRC the 2L is good for spooling a larger turbo faster. the rods in the fe3 are super stout letting people get away with tons of power on stock bottom end. Both those are advantages for boost. Not n/a.

N/a that plot looks kinda similar to a bp4w/bp6z with bolt ons: about the same power and not much more torque.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong of course.
(and I don't mean this in a disrespectful way)

The plan was always to boost it but I was way to busy this year with work and I was convinced to keep it n/a for reliability.

The motor is definitely suited more towards boost but for the price of the motor and all the parts being around $1000 I'm pretty happy with the results.

No one had done this setup before so I figured I'd try it out and see how it worked.

I have a fresh holset turbo begging to go on but ill have to look at classing before I decide

Ahhh, that makes so much more sense.

Carry on then:)

Sounds brilliant.
The torque drop off could be anything… Intake manifold? Exhaust manifold? Cams? General design-ness? Probably a combination of everything. Still sounds awesome though.

Haha thanks! It's extremely loud but the itbs sound amazing at the top end when you can hear them

I'm thinking cams or eBay header, might need bigger primaries

Not sure on the bigger primaries, but you may well know more about such things than I do. Shortening the secondaries should, in theory, push the torque curve further up the rev range. And that's about all I know.

Well it is a bp header so it's slightly smaller than what would be ideal for a 2L

problem is, they dont seem to be that amazing for top-end when you look at your dyno plot

With adjustable gears you should gain 5-10whp and eliminate that big HP dive at the end. Nothing great in the big scheme of things but should make for a fun NA motor. Nice transplant!