Guys, he's using the Link Piggyback. From what I know, that thing doesn't have the ignition fidelity to do a whole lot from a timing perspective, so he's down a ton of power there... and we all know how awesome 5th injector setups work.

OP, did you do pulls at different boost settings, or start out low and work your way up to 20psi, or did you just pay the $50 for 3pulls w/o Wideband and call it a day? With that much boost, if your AFR is off, or your timing curve has any sort of funkiness about it, you're gonna end up testing just how "built" your motor is.

I would turn down the boost until you can log some AFR's, and if you're going to stick with the Link piggy, an EGT gauge will be a good investment toward getting your timing curve optimized.

i did pulls i did not play with timing i just played with my air fuels to get them right. i did not have any pinging. so i said its good for now.

lol you mean the extra 4 injectors

i wish i had a set of old emission rollers so i could use them for load to tune my car

Did you contact FM for some link support?

I dont know the link well, but you may want to look into some other engine management to take advantage of your build.

I hope to have a dyno plot soon on my built 99. Then we can compare notes.
I run a TechIIIr for management.

I'm in the "Something's wrong I make more power with much less boost" crowd too.

I'd say if the Link is what's holding you back, get rid of it. As much as you have sunk into that engine and running that much psi, 240 hp is unacceptable.

It's not good for now. FM recommends only 9psi MAX on the Link Piggy. It doesn't have the fidelity to provide fuel and timing correction for the amount of boost you're running. Are you enabling any sort of timing correction, or are you running the stock ECU's timing map?

DUDE, YOU NEED TO TURN THE BOOST DOWN!

Would you also mind telling me exactly what the fuel setup is? Extra injectors? How many? What size? Do you have any graphs of your fuel curve? Normally that stuff is printed out on the bottom of the dyno curve. What did your AFR's look like?

You haven't looked at ignition at all? What targets did you shoot for in your A/F? Even if you hadn't touched ignition and had a good A/F, then you should be making more than this. Are you using the stock fuel pump? What are the 4 extra injectors rated at? i know they have that goofy special intake manifold with the second injector inlets for the link piggy.

I agree you need to turn the boost down and figure this out. That ecu can't manage this level of power.

yeah those numbers are way too low. i make 243whp on a 1.6 /w td04 at 1 bar.

I was expecting to see ~300hp, not 240... yep, something is wrong. I'm going to blame the link. Is the 2560 even efficient at 20psi? What exactly is gutted on the intake manifold?

20psi? a 99 with that turbo would be make that power at 10psi. Something is wrong.

don't worry, he will blow the motor soon and he won't have to worry about getting it set up right, it will just be a paper weight.

People without a turbo on their car should not be talking so much shit methinks.

Oh wait, thats me. ;) But yeah, I agree. Something has to be major wrong to make that low of a number. Even a shit tune and shit compression would surely make more than 240 at 20psi.

D'oh! :facepalm:

I just looked at his username and assumed this was a 1.6 running the Full Link. Didn't even bother actually checking the sig. Makes a lot more sense now.

Why would you buy a built FM motor and not spring for a Hydra, or some other real EMU?

fm can just tune it over the phone.

i retuned the ecu the try tuning it the wrong why the car feels alot better and the boost is down to 16psi i should have a new dyno sheet tomorrow. my air fuels are alot more stable and my timing is set better. im am saving for an Adaptronic Standalone, a forced performance sr20 20g, intercooler, and injectors. and what ever i my need

i did not buy a fm built motor if i had money like that i would have alot more work.

You're not answering the questions people are asking you.
HOW MANY INJECTORS?
WHAT SIZE ARE THEY?
WHAT ARE YOU AFR'S?
WHAT EXACTLY ARE YOU ADJUSTING THE TIMING TO?
HOW DID YOU RETUNE THE ECU? WIDEBAND? BACK TO THE DYNO?

Man, your first post in this thread says "let me know what y'all think". Do you really want to know what I think, or am I wasting my time. You're still at nearly double the boost FM recommends for that ECU, and for some reason you refuse to tell us anything useful about what you're doing. This board will help you get the most out of your setup and make sure you don't blow your motor in the process, but you seem hell-bent on boosting the shit out of it in the face of overwhelming evidence that it's a bad fucking idea... what exactly is the goal of this thread?

Please blow your motor up, sell your car cheap to a forum member, and never post here again.