Stock 1.6 with 2860RS at 12psi
 

Had my setup dyno tuned on a dynapack this weekend... the car runs alot better.

Basic turbo parts are:
legit garrett gt2860RS @ 12psi
lovefab manifold
legit tial ms-v
Injector dynamics 725cc
AEM ems series 1
GM 3 bar map

The car is nice and quick, i would have liked closer to 250 but oh well.

Attachment 197967

I see no mention in your sig or the post about exhaust. Are you running a 3"? If not then that has to be robbing you a ton.

Its full 3" right off of the turbo, i have a 3" magnaflow high flow cat (center section is only like 4" long... so its barely a cat), and a 3" magnaflow.

Edit: The engine is healthy too... i did a compression test immediately prior to this dyno tune and i made 185-187 psi across.

What kind of brand is "legit"?

Does the dyno read low or something? 200tq at 12psi from a 2860RS is really, really low.

Also, find a dyno operator that cares about something other than peak numbers. I hate hackjob dynoqueen shops that start pulls at 3000rpm. I'd say your spool sucks but I'm sure it's partially due to operator error.

.64 or .86 housing?

I hate to agree with sav, but if you look WAY back at my 1.6 w/ 2554r dyno you'll see that I made like 200whp and almost 200wtq with stock exhaust at 15psi. I would have expected that you would make much more with a 2860r and a full 3".

It is 0.86

It could be the fact that I told him i wanted it to last a season and max HP wasnt really the goal... AND my boost control wasnt working, so we just ran a T in the WG line and crimped it to only make 12psi... so that could also affect spool, and explain the drop in power on the top end. (this is essentially tricking the WG into 10psi) I need to get boost control working because it was crazy overshooting, or doing nothing when i was on the dyno.

It could be the dyno... we ran 2 other cars that day (both 1jz's) and they seemed to come out low too. One had a 60-1 at 21psi with 264 cams and only made 480hp.

Either way, this car shreds... i was just hoping for more on what i have.


Oh, legit means i bought real stuff... not china immitations.

Is this SplitTime's old hotside setup?

I agree with the others, there should be more power. But, as you mentioned, you did have some problems with boost control. Was there anything else that you noticed that might have been cuasing any issues?

You mentioned you wanted the car to last for a season? What type of season?

Drifting. Its hard on engines, and I WILL lose motivation this year if i have to change engines half way through. I know its not what everyone does here... but im open minded to competetive automotive...things.

This is splitimes old hotside setup.


Im reading into boost control on the AEM website right now. I will fuck with it this week, but its too bad that it didnt work well on the dyno.

Dont get me wrong, 225 is great... but obviously more would be better.

Well, Split made as much/more power than you using that hardware at only 10psi on a reliable, trackable tune. Same turbo too.

I also basically ran ambient air temperature and have a wacky intake manifold/bigger throttle body/COPs etc...

It was also a different dyno, dyno dynamics. So comparing stuff from my location to a different dyno in canada.... isn't going to work to well.

Lol I know what legit is, I was just busting your balls. And yeah the numbers are low, look at my sig, I made more power and tq on a td04-19t at 12psi.

After i get boost control setup and working, where do i go from here?

I will be able to configure the gain to make boost much sooner and a shit ton harder, and constant all the way to redline. I forgot to get screenshots of the boost on this run, but i am convinced boost was trailing off at high RPM.

I dont think on a stock engine more boost is the solution.

Power is power, if it makes 200WTQ at 25 psi and 150 degree IATs or 200WTQ at 2 psi and 150 degrees IAT, the shortblock is equally stressed.

IME its actually much safer to go with a tune that runs higher boost and a bit less aggressive on the timing than a tune trying to get every last HP out some lower boost number.

AFR? Max timing advance?

And its also a pretty good point that you cant really compare dynos too closely. EVen on identical dynos you have correction factors to take into account anyway.

Get a log of say a 3rd gear pull from 3K to 7K on level ground, on run in each direction. That can often give you a really good idea of where you are at :)

What kind of dyno is this? You should do the smaller housing on that 1.6.

That housing allows it to breathe up top. Its about the same size as a 60ish AR T3 turbine housing.

I agree, but I think that if we're looking at Dynojet-like numbers then he's probably not going to see much of a drop in output because he's so far below prime. I saw similar results on a totally different friend's car.

Honestly, his numbers are what I'd expect with that turbo on a 1.6L on a roller dyno... I see nothing wrong. also I thought you were running like 15psi and had a major boost spike during spool...

add a mere 10% to his numbers and you got 247/216 for a rough dynojet comparison.

The dyno was a dynapack Hustler.

I will ask the tuner if he still has the log of that run to see my boost levels.

The power feels good on the street, but as always... we all want more.

Being on a 5 speed still with the 3.636 rear is not optimal... a 6 speed would realy liven the car up.

When you were in my shop with the car on the dyno, you could REALLY hear the difference in how hard the car was working at 12psi where at 10 it sounded like normal.

Also, the tuner spent a wicked amount of time tuning my cruising cells....the miata drives great! Drove it yesterday ~300km and I am averaging LESS THAN 6L/100km!
Thats more than 40mpg.
This is combined driving with a few boosted fun runs ;)

Who needs a smart car now?

40mpg?? What are you AFRs at cruise??

No it was at 12psi trailing to 10psi cause the stock greddy wastegate wasn't working. Then I upgraded it to a t28 wategate and set the MBC to 14psi and got a steady 14psi all the way to redline but I haven't dyno that yet. The boost spike your talking about is my current issue with the new IC I installed.

Buffon, since there are so many correction maps, the afr fluctuates quite a bit depending on so much.

if im on a level, no throttle inputs, in 5th gear on 3.6 rear end just cruising... it will vary between 15-16.5:1

The main thing is that i cruise at 70mph (110km) at ~3k now vs the 4k with stock 4.3 as well has having VTPS and a tune very specific to my car...

This could also attest to the quality of the injector dynamics injectors that i picked up from 949 racing.

Well with my parkinson AFRs I cruise leaner that you (Yes I know I have to tune) and I dont get more that 200 mpt as you can tell I dont cruise much :facepalm:

This is visually observed over 1 day. I will datalog some driving in the near future, as i need to get my boost control running anyways, and then i can see what the ems is recording which is more accurate than me reading my innovate guage.

do you have a boost log to prove it? You're suggesting you made 232 at 6.5K with 10psi on a 1.6L with the greddy manifold and starion IC....that would make your setup one of the most powerful 1.6L setups out there.

Either that or he stole Ray_sir_6's tuning secrets.

His dyno is nearly identical to BRgracers dyno on the same machine back in 2006...and a VERY similar setup, but he ran around 15psi, peaking at 17psi during spoolup.

I think his numbers are good. It took 16 psi from my 2871 to make 242/224 on a Mustang dyno.
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I agree that the OPs numbers are good for a 1.6.

That makes me feel better about it.

I want to fuck around with boost control still to get it up there and steady.
If i can get that working, I will make the 2 hour trip to toronto for the M-tuned dyno day and run it on their mustang for number comparisons.

We tryed to do a log but my laptop wasn't hooking up... Do you not remember? And I didn't have 232 at 6.5k I think it was like 5k and then it went down... You should still have the dyno sheet, and it might not make a huge difference but I have a 19t wheel.

you act like i wasn't lookin' at your dyno ;)

Brgracer logged this run at a 17psi spike dropping to 15psi.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...tom_greddy.jpg

Attachment 197099

got bored... overlayed my graphs that i have.





low lines are 10psi

high are 12psi.





i never drove the car at 12psi. :(



When i get the new turbo i will get the same charts with the same turbo, only difference will be the TiAL exhaust housing... i may tune up to 14psi too...

This time i will have cometic head gasket and ARP head studs since my head gasket is leaking like a seive.


EDIT:
Does anyone have any insight into why power was falling off at 12psi besides the possible boost drop from not running a real boost controller?(we used a crimped metal T since EBC wasnt working and i didnt have a manual)

In for results

The gt2860rs needs 15psi or so to "work." I don't know why but on my old begi stuff and my absurdflow stuff my car made shit output at 11-13psi...then at 15psi its like another world. I'm sure that my lowered compression has something to do with it too.

from the old begi stuff...
12psi:
http://i48.tinypic.com/25jza88.jpg
15psi:
http://i49.tinypic.com/2d134w0.jpg

same with my hks. it was nice at 8, decent at 10-12, but at 14 it was like "WHOAH, WTF IS THIS?"

prime efficiency, lulz. I don't know how much power the AF parts make at 16psi but this car was crazy at 16.

I was creeping the dyno section today and i noticed this in your dyno thread.
being on a completely stock engine im weary of high boost... but im going to add a knock sensor to the EMS and watch that.

My tuner told me this at the tune day. he said another psi or two will liven this setup up for real.

I was getting scared that day because the higher we boosted it, the more oil i was leaking...

I hope to get some solid numbers down and pump 14psi into the engine with it being happy.

Im also going to try to tune a bit more of my 2000-3000rpm cells to get better in town drivability... the 1.6 fidanza seems to make my car not like holding between on/off throttle.

btw, im very interested in comparing my numbers to yours hustler once i get up and running with boost control off of my EMS.

You are running the 0.86 TiAL housing, correct?

Definitely been watching this build and can't wait to see the next set of results as i'm running a nearly identical setup

i need to start a build thread but im too lazy.

fuck your china shit.
Attachment 196531
New numbers coming soon... but this turbo has about 6mm inducer size and 11mm exducer size over my last setup ;)

Holy crap that is pretty

Elegance. its happening.


Tomorrow night im cutting off the T2 flange and modifying the manifold to work with the turbo, then taking it to the welder to have them TIG it.... i dont have the proper gas for my MIG and i much prefer a nice clean weld for something like this.

from there i need to see how the downpipe is going to work out and hopefully everything will line up, but that may be optimistic.

planning on being boosted next week and then i will head to the m-tuned shop for some dyno time.

2871R .86 = panties dropping

Im down for that.


Sav, what trim is your compressor? this was discussed in another thread....

fiddy-two.

Just a verbal update... been driving the car for a few days now... ~1200km...

the car is just as responsive if not more responsive than before.
with no boost control setup, i am getting full boost off the wastegate spring (10psi) at 3600-3700rpm. (2871R 0.86TiAL exhaust with 56 trim compressor wheel)

only difference besides that is the vband flange on the turbo manifold and i modified my downpipe to be externally vented since it was being a royal pain to setup and it keeps me a little more sane on the street.

Any updates on this? How are things going? Did you get a tune done yet and if so can you post a map?

I'm thinking of possibly a 2860RS or 2871R with a .64 tial housing on my 1.6 w/ built head. Think it could be quite the hot setup.

i street tuned it at 12psi and it didnt like it.

Car is done for the season.

What don't you like?

either he popped his motor or the turbo was nowhere near its efficiency plateau and didn't make much power

.86 hotside I think is too big, should have went .63 the power difference isn't worth the lag associated with the .86. Numbers don't seem right though, I made 60+ whp more at only 3 more psi then you with a .48 hotside

^^ You running a 28RS?

Wirelessly posted

You 2871 guys make me hate my turbo. However I\'m a pussy and scared of breaking drivetrain.

when actually driving my car it was very fun. im not worrying about the response. change your driving style a hair for a larger turbo and you will be ok....

my engine blew, so im done for the season waiting for a rebuild or some swap.

I'm torn b/w a .64 and .86 housing. I don't want to make a mistake buying the wrong one since the housings are like $350. I wish more 1.6L guys were running real turbos.

how high are you planning to rev it out?

My head is good for 8K+ but I will most likely run the hard cut around 7600ish RPM. I need the extra RPM's for my local track with my rear end/wheel tire size.

get the 2871R 0.64 housing then... if you were to run the engine up to or over 8 grand then you would need the extra flow of the 0.86