It is most likely my intake manifold Sav, the runners are extremely short. I actually started researching design and runner length last night. I am sure if I change my intake manifold, or at least make my runners longer it will change my power curve dramatically. I will post my last set up with my stock intake manifold today to show you the difference.

EDIT: Sav, also you said he is running a 2L well I think it makes a huge difference, he is running a much smaller turbo than I and has a lot more displacement. If you look at that other guy (not sure of his user name) he ran a 3076R on a 1.6L and it was very laggy. I think this more than accounts for 1,000 difference in spool. My turbo spools just as fast as a GT35R w/ a billet wheel.

Also, those tests are from a 2.3L Audi which is a lot bigger than my motor and they're getting full boost at 4,500 with the 5857, I am getting full boost about 600 RPM later which seems good to me. So it adds up with the post about eliminator also, I think it's just turbo sizing and I will not make mid-range power because I do not get into boost until later in the RPM band, plus I am running off the wastegate which cannot help spool.

Now with all things said, I still make more power then eliminator per psi I think. He made a little over 500 w/23 psi on a dynojet. I will easily match that if not surpass that once my billet wheels gets into its sweet spot, billets love boost and I have hardly got into it's efficiency range. I really don't care too much about mid-range power. I mostly care about upper-RPM power, peak power for the simple fact that I do not like breaking stuff for 1, and two, that's where I spend all of my time when I am beating/racing on the car, driving around day to day it isn't laggy at all seems to have a lot of throttle response etc, and I am very happy with it.

I did decide to ditch the idea of a PRO efi--for now, and have my mind set on my trans and a few other little things. I think you guys where very right when it came to it be over board, but then again I still might use it in the future if I decide to go crazy with my motor and try to make 700+ whp or something, which is very possible.

Man, I am on a short nose crank lol..I am using a HV oil pump though. Where do you get these shim under lifters? I know I have hydraulic lifters that's about it, as well as a ported and polished head.

I am going to tear down the motor once I get some more money saved up switch to a long nose, throw an ATI and billet oil gears and call it a day.

Forgive me for sounding ignorant if this has already been covered elsewhere, but have you considered water injection as an alternative to E85? It just occurs to me that water, even distilled water, is slightly more plentiful than anhydrous ethanol.

I actually had a kit and sold it, it just seems like too much extra stuff to possibly go wrong. Where as E85 you just fill up your tank, no need to worry about extra lines, things snapping off, clogged lines, running out of meth and/or water etc.

Ok, that's a fair assessment.

just put some distilled water in the gasoline, that should take care of the water injection, right?

I got the lifters from Mazda Motorsports. You have to have a team support number to do business with them, which means you have to compete in some kind of racing, and have a license or membership with a sanctioning body. You can probably go through a vendor that is already set up with them if you do not want to go through all that. Perhaps Webcam.

The cheapest way to do it is not to buy a shim under kit. It will bankrupt you. Buy the lifters first and install, measure the clearance between lifter and cam, subtract the required valve lash, then order the shims you need, and finally, install shims and remeasure. You will probably make a mistake or two, so be prepared to either grind down shims that are too thick (not that hard), or order some extras if some of the shims are too small.

Shim unders add some horsepower from idle to redline, and relieves stress to your valvesprings allowing higher RPMs.

Slightly off topic, but I could not find an actual build thread for you. What pistons and rods are you running?

Running Wiseco pistons, and Carrillo H-Beam rods.

I guess you and I are the only skeptical ones. 425 on 18 psi when the EVO guys need more psi to reach the same numbers with much better flowing heads and IMs (we're talking on this turbo). All on 93 octane.

I do find it humorous with the whole "on a dynojet, this would make x+50". Any dyno operator can my make a dyno read what they want. Yes, even the Mustang dyno guys. They have correction factors too.

If you guys want to be honest with yourselves, have the operator enter ZERO for the correction factor.

Frank

I am skeptical, no doubt about it. 425whp on 18psi on a 1,6? Sure, if he was using his cams at 9,000rpm, but at 7,000rpm? I don't know man, I hate to spoil his bragging rights, but it doesn't sound right. I've seen a 1,6 on a 3071 pushing 25psi, and that only got him 360whp. Sure, no manifold and no cams, but jtothawhat isn't exactly spinning the hell out of the motor to take advantage of the cams and manifold.

^^ I don't know what to tell you, be skeptical all you want. http://www.spracingonline.com/ is who tuned and dyno'd it, ask for Vince. This shop is home to some of the fastest Supras in the country. I will give anyone a ride in the area who wants one and they can tell you first hand. I made 381 whp on a dynojet with my previous set up with OBX 264 cams, stock intake manifold, and ETD shorty exhaust at 25 psi. I am going to take it to a dyno day coming up this weekend on a dynojet and I will post what make. I bet you I can make this set up do 500 whp on pump on a dynojet if I rev to 8,000 RPM.

That is absolutely possible and I wouldn't be skeptical about it at all.

Don't know what to tell you then bud...

Sound Performance is a tuning shop located in the western suburbs of Chicago, Illinois. Originally specialized in competition audio systems and custom installations, we began to branch out into turbocharged applications in 1990. Over the last 15 years, Sound Performance has gained the reputation as one of the finest tuning and fabrication facilities in the USA. From custom fabrication to top notch installations, we do it all.

Sound Performance has set numerous records for street legal, full weight cars. First 300ZX TT into the 10's First MKIV supra to run 9.5 with stock Toyota Automatic transmission.... (A record still held today!!!), Fastest full weight supra in the world 8.45 1/4 mile, most powerful daily driven supra-1520 RWHP and now the fastest daily driven full weight Lexus SC300 in the country 9.59@143mph.

Not a day goes by in which the Sound Performance garage isn't crammed with Surpas, Nissans, Corvettes, Mustangs, Vipers and other cars, along with engines being built, turbo kits being assembled, and electronics being installed and cars being dyno tuned.

New projects at Sound Performance now include supercharging and turbocharging of the new Nissan 350Z, Chevrolet Corvette, including the new 505hp 2006 Corvette Z06 and the exciting retro styled new mustang.The SP 350z currently has a ProCharger supercharger on it, and has since put down 400rwhp. We also have the first working AEM EMS in the 350z, which we've spent countless hours on creating the wiring harness, etc. Winter of 2006 we will be finishing our twin turbo setup for the 350z. Currently in the works are a C5 Corvette twin turbo kit, LS1 turbo kit, and a 4.6 Mustang turbo kit.

Sound Performance's facility now host a new 1750hp mustang Dyno. With wideband 02 sensors, pressure sensors, temperature sensors, and data logging capability, this Dyno along with SP's trained technicians assure all customers of a properly tuned vehicle.

Sound Performance is now going to make it easier to purchase our own custom fabricated products as well as 100's of other manufacturers products. We cater to both domestic and import markets. Our priority is customer service and complete satisfaction, as well as competitive pricing. If you have any questions please

You sound like you're hating for no reason, no their IM do not flow better than mine stock. And a built Evo, with a ported head, Kelford cams, upgraded turbo etc have no problem making what I did at that boost level, the thing is is no one runs my boost level on an Evo. I know enough about Evo's to know you're pulling this information out of your ass; Bad Bish went 9's on pump gas, Evo's have made over 600 whp on PUMP.

If you want to pay for dyno time, send me to your dyno of choice.

Seriously, if you are happy with the way your car performs, then there's no dyno sheet to show that. Enjoy your car man and don't let my skepticism ruin your joy. I managed to get 400whp off a built 1,8 running on a 2871 and 23psi and people were telling me "NOT POSSIBLE", so I feel for you, even though I am the one who has the doubt, lol.

How do you have doubt if you just told me you made 400 whp with a smaller turbo, most likely a less flowing exhaust manifold, and a stock intake manifold assuming, without cams?

The turbo is rated for that horsepower and actually within the sweet spot of the map, we run 5psi higher than you on a ~1890cc engine and made that power at 7400rpm on a VVT engine. The timing was pretty aggressive too.

Reverant, he's lined up for top end power through and through. Ramhorn manifold, PTE5857 (more top-end flow than a GT3076R), super-short runner intake manifold, big cams.

Ok so I was skeptical at first too but then I did some math:

So let's say 18psi + GT3076 (sorta a PT5857) + 1.9L = about 380hp.
Subtract 11% for a 1.7L: 380hp - 42hp = about 338hp

So that's the baseline.

Now add in:

20hp for intakemani +338hp = 368hp
20hp for cams + 368hp = 388hp
20hp for supernice long tubular exhaustmani + 388hp = 408hp

That's not including any psi efficiency gains of the billet vs. a standard cast compressor wheel.

So, with all of those things added in, I think that it is very possible. When I dyno tune in a few weeks I will see what I can get with my stock intake and log mani and stock cams and 1.9 at 18psi. I'm guessing it will be less.

Haters gonna hate.


If you have time post a full mod list assuming you don't have a build thread.

Now, if we do a $ per hp analysis for his current boost level, well, I think it's cheaper to turn up the boost to get the same dyno #s. That's why I have no intake, no cams, no badass exhaustmani now. I will whore my 3071 for all it's got. Thing is though, as he adds more boost he will see even greater returns on the efficiency of the setup. I really want to see 28psi on his car.

Please do, that would be a very interesting comparo. The stock IM blows ass up top, but it does make good power under ~5000 or so.

Not that big of a difference. You're 1100rpm down on JayL, who has ~200cc of displacement and basically the same sized turbo (3076R) - FM shows the difference as being about half that between a 1.6/1.8 or 1.8/2.0.

Look at the differences as you go larger and larger on the turbo - slight drops in spool in exchange for big jumps in power. You aren't even in the ballpark, though.

Attachment 193490



That thread was just to compare the differences between your turbo and turbos which we are more familiar with (30Rs). Comparing a 5-cylinder 2.3 Audi to a 1.6 liter 4 cylinder is pretty useless, I agree.

So what? If I had a magical turbo that made 400whp and 400wtq at 50psi, but I was making 200wtq at 2500rpm and 400wtq at 3500rpm, would you write the setup off because "you're making more power per PSI?" No. Boost pressure is a totally arbitrary measurement of intake manifold restriction. It's nice because it correlates fairly closely with flow when you are comparing the same setup at two different boost levels, or the same turbo on two different setups, but any other comparison is utterly useless.

Agree, mostly. More like a black box is how I look at it. So things past the intake mani also have an effect.

do want video

Sav here is my last dyno. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...2&d=1226689077

This is 15 psi pump gas, my last set-up above is comparing to 25 PSI on leaded 110
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1226689077

Every time a dyno plot is printed with MPH on the x-axis, God kills a kitten. What gear ratio/tranny/gear were your pulls done in?

4th gear, 4.10 in the rear 5 speed...I posted another sheet under that one with RPM, if you could compare this one with my new one in excel that'd be awesome!

Attachment 193487

Something is still off. Either the turbo is way out of its efficiency range or the cams are killing it or something.

Come to think of it, it could be the cams, actually. I have ctdriftna's numbers in that spreadsheet. His cams are :


integral r3 intake 295 duration @ .490 lift
r1 exhaust 282 duration @ .455 lift (i think)

He said something about boost control issues as well, though.

Here's his numbers on the chart. I left JayL's line on there just as a reference to a setup that IMO makes good midrange AND top end power.

Attachment 193488

So maybe high-duration cams = shitty midrange? Calling Jason_C and jkav, time for a discussion on the effects of overlap and duration on turbine inlet pressure.

Sounds like ctdrafta is having the exact problem as me. I have also have a 13.5 spring, and I am seeing 18 psi, that could also be a problem. I don't think it is the cams because I have a similar curve with my last set up and the cams where different? I was thinking the runners are too short, by adding another few inches to my runners I would think I would shift my power-band to the left quite a bit.

What is strange is I am making over 30 whp more than my last set-up but my torque barely went up?

Do you think you could do a datalog of a pull? Even on the street from 2000-7500 in 4th gear would be fine. Boost, rpm, afr, timing, etc...would tell us a lot.

Yah you want the spring to match your boost target as closely as possible so you will spool up as quickly as possible. Even if you have a MBC/EBC you will be limited by your spring.

Hating for no reason? The reason I'm "hating" is you put up a suspiciously high output number on a suspiciously low amount of boost.

You obviously haven't been around the car scene or posting dynos to forums that long have you? Any other forum that has regular dyno postings would have people questioning your numbers. A quick google on your turbo shows nobody with larger motors and more boost making your numbers.

You know enough about Evos yet you didn't know that a 38mm EWG is plenty big for your output level? And you don't know how to read a dyno chart and understand the difference between area under the curve vs peaky "bragging rights only" dyno chart?

I was big into DSMs while you were still in diapers. Evo heads flow better than any worked 1.6 head ever will. I had a built 1.6 before you owned a Miata. Granted I didn't have an inappropriately sized turbo for the 1.6 that spooled that was ridiculously peaky on mine but you get my point.

What do you gain on a worked 1.6 head with larger valves and good porting over a stock 1.6 head, 40 cfm (which is about %25)? That gets you to about the flow of a stock 1.8 which is around 210 cfm. Still more than 50 cfm short of any DSM or EVO bone stock head.

While I'm not poor I have no desire to pay for you to prove me wrong. If I did, I'd send you over to P&L Motorsports who doesn't use a correction factor on the dynojet and let you do a pull and have Jorge Carillo get a log of your tune.

Sorry that everyone here isn't going to stroke your wiener.

You know, all this talk and comparison is absolutely useless until jtothawhat gets the car prepared to make a high rpm dyno pull.

jtothawhat... if you are not in the position to make all the corrections necessary to spin the motor to 8500, you may consider installing a milder camshaft that is designed to work in the power range that your motor can safely turn to.

The other option is to experiment with cam timing to try to shift the power band to a lower rpm. However, your turbo variable will make that tricky. I would think that to make the turbo really work with your small discplacement, it would require high rpms. The dyno graphs seem to point to that reality.

Miata2fast, I am going to keep things how they are for the simple fact that it is winter soon, the car is going to sleep for a few months making it pointless to change anything now, plus I am way over my budget for this car, this year. The motor will be torn down, I will replace the crank, put billet oil pump gears, ATI dampener and check the piston rings. While that's being done my trans will all be getting completed, I am still contemplating on going to a RX7 rear end due to the fact DSS makes axles for them.

If I rev my car to 8,500 the cars graph will look a lot better, simply for the fact that where will be more area under the curve with an extended power-band. My car is going to be tuned for about 30 pounds of boost +/- with E85 and what ever number I end up with I will be happy with.

fmowery I will not even comment on your lack of reading comprehension. Yes, you're the car god and know everything--at the end of the day I still make more money then you. :ohnoes: Simple facts though for your viewing pleasure:

-What built motor evo runs a 38MM wastegate alone? NONE
-Show me a dyno where an Evo was running 18 pounds of boost? NONE, WHY? Because they run 19.4 STOCK!

And what the hell do I need correction factor for?! Im at sea-level and it is 50 degrees outside But tell that to guys in Colorado that correction factor isn't need when there is a lot less oxygen in the air at 7,000+ feet.



For the record, I do not only care about peak numbers, however, I do race the car straight line and when racing I do not need power to exit out of turns; slow down at all; or downshift. You're in that M.net mentality and need to get the hell out of it. 5857 is not a miss matched turbo for my goals I don't understand how it would be when my goal is 600 whp, and that's what they're rated at? When the hell am I under 6,000 for a drag race? NEVER So how about you get the hell out of my thread. Also, P&L Motorsports has a lot of record holders, and fast cars coming out of there, right? :jerkit: Since you want to even mention that name next to the shop you're calling out Sound Performance which has been in business 11 years longer, turned out 100's of 1000 whp cars, record holders, and some of the fastest street cars in the country.




And for Sav, and everyone else who actually knows what the hell they're talking about I would like to thank you.. XOXOXO:giggle: I did find a solution to the problem http://www.spracingonline.com/store/...ool_Valve/3643 I am going to buy that this winter.

rent is 2 damn high

True story, but either way full boost at 5,100 RPM isn't that bad, for me, anyways.

Bigger turbos... with lower boost... typically require bigger wastegates to control boost.

Majority in the Miata world never see that combination :p

Splitime you can test drive my car when ever you want too, I actually still have to drop off your CAS so let me know when you're free.

The comment about evo's running 19psi stock is kinda stupid though. when running a huge turbo 19psi isn't the same 19psi it was on teh stocker.

Yes I have seen evo's running only 18psi before. Its not common on a built big turbo evo but its not completely out of the question.

I'm around almost every night, I am trying to get time to pick up my other GTX... so I'd just call first.

Maybe at the Schaumburg meet up Thursday?

And I won't drive it... I don't drive other peoples cars... I can't afford to replace/fix them... and don't want the guilt even if I'm told its ok :p I wouldn't say no to a ride though... this weather isn't exactly traction friendly though :p

I'm surprised that this interesting thread that promotes thoughts of experimentation and discovery turned into a pissing match.

Any time an unusual combination can give us surprising results and promote inquisitive thinking and constructive speculation it should be a good thing. I've noticed a tendency to "poo-poo" experimentation with new ways of doing things on this forum unless it is conducted by a select few members. Some guys can try anything and be lauded as innovators and trailblazers and others are accused of crucifying our savior for the same actions. Critical thinking and analysis of data being presented is good but no one should get unreasonable and start making it personal. I think we are above that.

I would love to see a dyno pull of the same parameters with a stock intake. What CR are your pistons?

+1

I've noticed some of the same...

On a side note... shame it wouldn't be cheap/simple to use the Blox manifold I have... and the 1.6 cut up manifold I have... and make a nice longer runner testing unit.

Nice numbers, I would love to see a dyno run of your car with one of my manis on there.

I keep seeing this in posts lately and frankly I think its bullshit.

Let me explain:

The reason an average n00b usually gets flack for doing something "differently" or trying something new or proven not to work well in the past is because of one BIG reason - they have neither the money, nor the skills, nor the brain power to think the project through, execute it correctly while documenting every step, and fix any fuckups or mistakes that can potentially ruin their car/engine/etc.

While these so called "regulars" usually do.

Plain and simple, if a noob comes on here showing great intelligence, has money, and the skills to try new shit and prepared to deal with the consequences we'll all just sit back and watch and encourage him.

Instead we get fucking 14 year old dipshits with 2 dollars and a half running POS car that needs fixing and maintenance before anything going "oh hai guythsss I'm going to swap an F16 fighter jet plane engine with NAWSSS what do you think????? HURRR DURRR"

Then 2 weeks later you see a thread "OH SHIT I FUCKED UP PLEASE HELP I HAVE NO MONEY AND NO TIME AND THINK I BROKEDED SUMFIN"



PS: sorry for going off topic OP, I just had to get that off my hairy chest:giggle:

Yeah I am getting sick of people saying that my numbers are somehow made up?

But this is for fact for the Evo 18 psi..
this whould help..you can find in in the beginning..section..

What engine does my car have?
All currently produced American market evo's have the 2.0 liter 4g63 turbo motor.

How much boost is my car running stock?It depends on the year:
03-04s run 19.5psi at 3500rpm, which tapers to 16psi by 6500rpm
05-06s run 20.3psi at 3500rpm, which tapers to 17psi by 6500rpm

How big is my stock turbo?
Evo's come with different variations of the 16g turbocharger:
03-04 = 16g6 with a 9.8cm^2 turbine housing
05 = 16g6 with a 10.5cm^2 turbine housing
06 = 16g6 with a 10.5cm^2 turbine housing and larger compressor housing

What is stock fuel pressure?
43psi with the vacuun hose off and plugged.

How much does fuel pressure increase when I am boosting?
1:1 = 1psi per 1psi

What size are the stock fuel injectors?
560cc

How big is the stock fuel pump?
03-05 = Same size as a Walbro GSS342, and flows 160lph@12v
Offline
Reply With Quote


The only point I was trying to make to that guy is give a built motor evo with head work, cams, after market turbo, and everything else with ECU it will make a shit load more power then my car, I think he is trying to compare my car which is fully built to a semi stock evo, my car will make more power then a lot of built evos given my boost level, let alone if I ran the boost they did I would make more. The displacement just allows for more power in the end because yes, we do have a 800 whp Miata but they're also 1,000+ evos.

Read more at http://forums.evolutionm.net/evom-ne...ktrack=kcplink

Where the hell is the god damn video! :vash:

nevermind

What are you, 12? Make more money than me? You have no idea how much I make, own, whatever.

Since you make so much, take your POS (gee, I'm dynoing yet I have loose bolts, I'm retarded and don't know what the fuck I'm talking about) to AMS, P&L or any other shop besides the one you're using and get another set of numbers. It's standard dyno "bragging" practice and 1/4 mile practice to have to back your shit up.

I was comparing a 2 liter Evo running your turbo retard that didn't make the whp. There's a Genesis 2.0 running your turbo too making a lot less power. Along with a few 1.8 Audis.

Building a 1.6 Miata motor (vs a stock 2.0 whatever) doesn't mean shit as you're still limited by the max displacement and relatively poor head. No amount of magic is going to make it flow better than most of the 2.0 motors out there.

I pulled out P&L because I know their tuner well and know their dyno doesn't pump out bullshit numbers and they're in your state (not the state of confusion about what the fuck you're doing).

If you want me out of your thread, PM a mod and have them ban me you pussy. I'm raising questions that need to be raised based on your numbers and your setup.

People bashed FMs numbers for years and at least they know what they're doing. You apparently don't.

Every answer you give is some quoted bullshit from a post on epinions or fucking Motorweek or something.

Splitime,
While I understand a larger turbo running low boost requires a larger EWG, a 55lb/min turbo at 18 psi shouldn't be an issue with a 38mm EWG (assuming the bolts are all tight. :jerkit:) Hell my Turbosmart 35mm on my old car running a 52lb/min turbo held spring boost (15 psi ) without issue.

Pull out the tampon dude.

What this guy said.

JayL I will do that as soon as I get a laptop battery that will not die as soon as I unplug the computer lol...bare with me.

Hello my friend!

Very nice set up , especially the intake.Big turbos at miatas rocks:bowrofl:

I hope you enjoy your car and be far from damages!

Now, if you let me discuss your numbers, I would say for another time, that the dynos sometimes and the users of them are very confused.

I turboed my miata since 2003, I have change many many setups, 5 diferrent turbos etc, 15-20 dynos at diferrent dynos and I never understand the way they works. At 2005 my miata with GT28R was 250whp at the same dyno that one friend made 330 with the same set up, just an external and a bigger exhaust, and at the road the cars was going almost the same. And this was JUST ONE example.

Concluding, because I have seen so much, especially with miata engines , an 1,6 lt motor revving up to 7200-7500, cannot anyway give 430WHP with only 18psi or 1,25bar.Even god has tune it:loser:

Think just my best friends 20VT 2,0 lt engine at seat ibiza, fully built with billet 62-62 makes 650 whp at 2,4 bar and at 1,2 makes 370whp.
Nissan vvl 1,6 turbo engine of another friend fully built and GT35 revving 9200 made 450whp at 1,4 bar.
And a last example with miata engine is an FM 2.0 miata here in greece (that does not exist now) that costed more than 80000 only the aftermarkets, full ported head with oversize ferrea,Edelbrock intake custom manifold,1000 injectors,todas 272,and TD04Z turbo cannot make the numbers you did in your 1,6 lt. At 17psi if I remember it made 400whp.And this was revving 8400.If it were revving 7000 it would made 380 max!

I don't want to go instead of you, I hope you enjoy your car and be unbreakable;) but I just want to say that some things just cannot happen.

ps1 sorry for my bad english
ps2 what transmission do you have? A stock tranny miata with 425whp,spit its gears out at the first full throttle.

Enjoy your car my friend and stop thinking about the numbers.

Bigger turbos need more pressure to get of them more horsepower.
At 18psi your turbo is out of range. I can give million of examples and different cars that can't hit this number.

Your dyno numbers are not real i telling that with out of offense .... but if you still thinking that you have the fastest 1.6 bring your miata at your next holidays to Greece.You can find here some answers that they can change your aggressive style .

LOL at thinking my dyno numbers are not real. Call the shop, number and name is that the top of my dyno sheet. I have nothing left to say, the shop is known around the world by the Supra crowd.

CEO made 900 whp at 30 pounds of boost, so is he lying to? You have got to be kidding me.

And you obviously don't know everything you think you do about Miata's because I do have a stock 5 speed and I don't spin threw 1st gear.

Loool is disrespect to compare your little 1.6 mx5 with Ceo's beast.

I have seen this car too many times to race with evo and porsche and believe me was really a monster.

He spent over 80000$ with full FM stroke kit and too many other thinks.

It seems more like a good advertisement of your shop and nothing something special.

Enjoy your car and have fun too but your record is only for your imagination

LOL x 10000000

And you know everything, telling that your stock transmission hasn't broke yet because you don't spin threw the first gear??????:vash:

Ok, I think that at this point we have to stop the discussion with you.
It's your authority to believe everything you want.

But just for the story, one true powerfull miata with REAL 425whp at the FIRST full throtlle with 3d or 4th gear will make the stock transmission gearsoup.:loser:

!!!!!! Call the shop????? Why??? To tell us that they made a miata B6 engine revving 7000(big LOL) to push 425whp at 18psi???? Or because they are tuning supras, they can make miracles??

Enjoy your car my friend,but if you like to deceive yourself, there are some people out there that they can't be deceived so easy. 1+1=2. At least the last 100 years.

The gearbox will never brake at first gear because the wheels are spinning,