finally it starts...but wont idle
 

Ok thanks to my many questions and viewing peoples maps the car starts.


Here is the new question.


How do I even out the Idle?

It starts jumps up to about 1400 and then drops to 650 then back up to 1200 and then back down to 650. It does this over and over again. If I give it a little gas it will stumble and then run perfect over 2k. I data logged but I dont know how to post files on here for you guys to see. I am running oo' 280cc injectors.

And I am REALLY new at this so when you tell me to adjust stuff please give me the idiot version. Thank you

Have a play with your idle screw on the throttle body, it sounds like its hunting so maybe try going clockwise otherwise turn it down by going anti clockwise

ok ill try that.

Should my airflow output map have a scaling starting at 500 and go 500 increments up to 8000? originally it was at 2000 but I chnaged it and it seems to work better but what is your input.

Im pretty new to this also, but my understanding is that anywhere "in between" is automaticly calculated / corrected, so i would assume that if the map has not been fully completed it would do so, but in saying that it would prob only do it up until the last value entered so yeh you should benefit by setting & populating the map up to its redline, if you havent populated anything yet it would not make a difference though

zoran

Do the Emanage Ultimates need the 1k ohm resistor connecting ground to MAF in?

I installed my EMB on the weekend and it did the exact same thing (hunted around for idle) but I didn't rev it. It was WAY too rich (could smeel the fuel). I forgot that there needed top be a resistor grounding MAF in.

5c from DickSmith and a bit of solder solved my issue.

I used a boomslang pnp so im not sure....

Back up a sec. Airflow output map? I assume you're doing MAF removal then, yes? If so, congrats on making it happen for the NB crowd.

The EMU software does interpolate between cells, however if there are any zeros adjacent to whatever cell you happen to be in at the time it will screw up the interpolation somewhat. You really need to populate data into all the cells, even if it's just a guess.

From my own experiences in AFM removal, I'd suggest that you reconnect the MAF sensor for a while and drive while comparing MAF in to MAF out. This is how I fine-tuned my Airflow Output Map, even after all the primary data-gathering was done.

yes I did manage to get my NB to run with no MAF. My intercooler piping is extremely restrictive on fitting a maf back into the system, this is why I have been fighting so hard jus to get the car back running. Im about to head to the garage fix my idle. If I can get that to stop running then that means I can finally drive it around and data log and actually start tuning.