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Old 08-17-2010, 07:52 PM   #1
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Default 6 psi Powercard tuning

Hi,

I'm going to be installing a GT2554R BEGi-S kit on my 2003 later this week.

In addition to the kit, I got some additional parts to help - like a Flyin'Miata timing wheel (I'm just going to begin with two degrees of pulled timing as per Keith's suggestion and since I'm non-intercooled and have a CR of 10:1).

I'm fueling the kit with a Track Dog Racing bought JR Powercard-Pro. The BEGi-S is supposed to run at 5 or 6 psi, so this is an inexpensive solution for now.

I'm just inquiring if anyone else has run the PC so I can pick your brains about what to set the three RPM settings to.

The Powercard's three operating levels run from idle ~ 2800 RPMs, 2800 ~ 5000 RPMs, and 5000 ~ < RPMs. Out of the box, each of those settings are set to zero. The additional "overall under boost/load" setting is 5. Fuel at tip in is also adjustable. According to the TDR instructions, the PC shouldn't have to be adjusted and can operate as is (but thats for a supercharger and "zero for the RPM settings doesn't seem quite right).

I have a friend's wideband so that I can do street pulls and check my AFR at several RPMs and adjust each section accordingly, but wiring it up - to the bare minimum necessary to use the gauge and reader - to take it off an return it might be an awful PITA (I do have a WBO2 that I can get for myself by the end of the month).

I've PM'ed others on other forums who have similar builds to mine, but this is Mturbo (the source).

Anyone else run the PC-Pro who can share insight on their settings (even if I run rich for a bit until I get the WBO2 of my own)?

thanx.
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:35 AM   #2
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Alright, I installed the kit - Powercard Pro and all with the FM timing wheel set to a couple of degrees of retard. I put in Wide Band 02 and now I'm trying to get the AFRs to sit nicely across the revs and load.

Idle to 2800, 2800 ~ 5000, and 5000< are all still set at the lowest setting.

Boost and Load was preset to 6, but this was so high that after going into boost on test pulls, the engine was so rich - it bogged and died on decel.

Eventually, I've pulled the "on boost/load" setting down to 2. When out of boost, I'm between 14 ~ 15:1. Around 0 ~ 1 psi, it goes rich into the 9's and 10's, and then eventually settles into the 11's and 12's.

"Fuel at Tip-In" is still set at the lowest. My question is whether or not it's normal or acceptable to go rich right at the beginning of boost so long as at max load, you're between 11:1 and 12:1 (so I won't flood the engine on decel)?

Any higher than 12, even at 5 psi, would still be dangerous under boost I'd assume.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:33 AM   #3
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Hi Scigano:
How is going on with your PC Pro?

I'm in the way of replacing a JRSC M45 with a T25 chinacharger in my '01 and, as is already installed (and payed), I thinking of using it for the moment. Im talking about the "normal" PC not the Pro, I plan to add a Flyin'Miata O2 Clamp and may be the Flyin'Miata timing wheel, as you have.

I've been running 8 psi intercooled with the M45, just on the PC without signals of knock or fuel leaning, but it was measured with a narrow band gauge, now I have a AEM WB to have a better control of the things.

FM tell me that the PC (non Pro) + the O2 signal modifier equals the FM Voodoo Box and along the Flyin'Miata timing wheel, are good for 6psi. I can switch to the Pro later and the Timing Card if I get good feedback on it or build a MS DIYPNP, but I don't see if is possible to install it on a 2001 NB2 Miata ?????

Another question, is it needed the O2 Clamp with the Pro?

So long, Ben.
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:30 PM   #4
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Hey MiataSC,

As far as I know, the Powercard Pro does not modify the O2 signal. Working with the PC Pro was difficult and I eventually replaced it with an FM Voodoo Box. I think the potentiometer (or whatever the PC Pro's equivalent is) for the fuel-tip-in setting was fried or damaged some how, because it was rewired twice and still didn't operate correctly.

I've heard a number of things about running Mega Squirt on VVT head NB's. VVT cannot be operated on an RPM switch (like Honda's VTEC) because it isn't a switch from a primary cam profile to a second. VVT constantly changes the cam's actual timing like an adjustable sprocket could statically, but over the entire RPM band of the engine. It's designed to give the ideal timing at low RPM, the midrange, and up top. I've heard that trying to operate on a switch has resulted in some piston/valve domestic abuse.

I've heard others have ran Mega Squirt systems on their VVT engines by dissconnecting the VVT system and pinning the cam actuator in a static position.
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:33 PM   #5
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Thanx for your response, Scigano.
So, based in your experience I'm gonna follow my planned route of using my current PC + the FM O2 signal modifier + FM timing wheel and start with about 6psi and raising the boost monitoring the AF/R. Currently I'm pumping 8 psi with the M45 + FMIC, without any issue, so probably I'll be able to reach this value, hopefully more (?) my boost goal is 10psi, (maybe changing the injectors) as it is know the 10:1 CR Miata engines, not built limit is 11psi.
The efficiency will be better with a properly tuned standalone, but this is something I'll left to the future, when the engine will need to be rebuild and some Wiseco and Carrillo parts will come in

So long.
Ben.
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