FYI: "Fanny" in the UK, Australia and New Zealand is slang for "Vagina" so this reads REALLY wrong.

Good my word choice wasn't lost on some then :D
Except I thought it was the male parts. Any who...

Loaded the new base tune. Scaled sensors again. Fired up exponentially better, night and day difference. No kickback pops or stutter. Still needed a touch of throttle. Wue kicked in and ramped down quite nicely. Closed the throttle bypass and got her down to 1500. Turned on open loop idle control and she went smack down to 850! Didn't bugger with any of the settings. Then she started oscillating as the ve cell value detlas we're significant down at that ve cell area. Evened them out and restarted and it started so much better. So it was good progress. Did not try heat soaked startup. Keep in mind my iat is not in an easily heat soaked area. Tuner is stopping by Wednesday to take another crack at it.

My friend that drifts miatas is interested to see how this turns out as he has been running a voodoo box on 8psi and is on his 3 motor in a year?????

Tuner is much happier. VE table is 60% done and wife is happier so we will hopefully finish up Friday on my off day.
Still an issue with hot and it leaning out.
Just found ase based off of ignition cycles under warm up. Going to play with that when I get home :)
Getting better!

keep us updated!

Finally figured out some things. Figured crank settings as well as wue ase.
Just retuned ve settings and she is running well without any ego correction with all lookup correction tables disabled. Installing knock ears to go add some timing.
Long story short this is a learning curve and has challenged the tuner a bit as it is not conventional megasquirt tunning. We have "passionately" discussed some shit and figured it out mostly, this is a poke the bear scenario but.

Verdict from tuner is yes this was definitely worth the investment.
I agree.
Also got three stickers coming from ausie land :D

Can you elaborate on what is so different about megasquirt tuning?

In the mean time I got mine working good exept for cranking settings. on cold stars it struggles a little bit. warm seems ok. I have to say I was maybe spoilt because it was starting really in no time with oem ecu, from 0 to 90° water temp, for a 20yo engine is not bad at all.

Would you share your msq?

I have to say I'm impressed in how easy it was to bring it to a point my butt dyno cannot easilly say if it's still the OEM ecu or not, someone who is not used to drive my car wont ever be able to discern.

And this for me being the first time ever I install and tune a programmable ecu speaks volumes. of course we will see in the future about the reliability of the thing but I can't see many weak points, and honestly.at 200$ for a PNP unit is a no-brainer.

Mine has been the opposite. x) Then again I am on a fairly old firmware and apparently this has been fixed.

You can afford to just keep a spare in the glove box!

Not trying to be hyper critical here as this is still in beta. I realize that, so some things I may mention are going to make me sound like a dick but it's what we dealt with.

Instant low hanging fruit is that the cells only want whole values. This may be due to limiting the processing power of the Arduino itself, I understand that. Or it forces you into a cell value, say I want it to be a value of 36, it's either 35 or 37. Again that may be easier for the unit to process. Some tuners want that n'th degree of tuning. It doesn't really bother me.

We have gotten it back to starting again. If we disable the priming pulsewidth to zero we get really really hard starting, like it doesn't start. If you look at the speeduino wiki the cranking enrichment % is not there as that may have moved to another menu. I'm not looking at the tune right now on my laptop. I really need to configure the gauges better. It would be super nice to be able to control the iac valve under this cranking area as well, maybe that's a feature that could be added later so that you don't have to throttle the pedal to get her to crank, that's my only big grumble as the stock ecu started better than my Toyota Tacoma or my 2005 wrx. Even after sitting for a week!

I'm wondering how we can get this to work now such that we could get shadow dash to work with it (have not tried it but don't know how to get it to work or if that is even possible), but I would like to monitor not on my laptop.

In the mean time we are scheduling a Dyno tune session for March 10th with the speeduino.

to summarize your points:
1) lack of "precision", honestly I didn't notice that issue with cell values but I noticed on the load axis if I put 25 it sometimes become 26. does not bother me, ecu is always using some interpolation anyway.
yes values in the map are limited as integer number but I honestly don't know who is going to want to tune 0.5% of a VE map? you have the AFR so STABLE it does not already fluctuate more than 1% ( for example from 13.86 to 14.14 instead of being fixed at 14.00?

2) cranking enrichment, I see the usual Enrichment Curve with 4 temperature based points.

https://thumb.ibb.co/jnVsYx/crank.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/mE6ALc/crank.jpg

3) cranking IAC values, there is a bug in the base tune so the 4 bins are one over the other. easy fix editing the MSQ, I just proposed this change so it will be hopefully fixed soon.

https://thumb.ibb.co/ha2mRH/iac.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/mhxaLc/iac.jpg

I don't think it's gonna help because 0% should already be fully open?

4) I don't see why shadowdash should not work once you add a Bluetooth module. mine is on its way for 5$ shipped...

https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php...es_.2F_Tablets

keep us updated on how the Dyno goes ;)

Ordered amazon fire 7" tablet, and usb to bluetooth as well as mounts so we dont have to cart around the laptop for monitoring, really excited about this

I have posted the current tune. Cranking is still not happy, spark is ok, no knock confirmed with knock ears. VE is ok. Running sams club 93 octane.
1992 na6 miata
raceland header
k and n cone filter jammed into stock intake tube with air box and afm removed as well as box. GM IAT screwed into very tip of k and n filter
running automatic miata throttle body with new vtps from autozone
This is a tune that works for our car, download and upload at your own risk, ymmv, not responsible if the breaks your car.
Attachment 219566
Attachment 219567
In the log you will see a super glitchy vtps, I have grounded the tps to the ecu ground, as well as the iat and the sensor ground for the o2

14point7s o2 sensor takes about a million years for it to warm up and its annoying.

In regards to the resolution, my tuner friend would tell Jesus how to make wine, some call it a character flaw, but he has earned the name rod knock for a reason... So it wasnt a huge deal.
It would be nice to have more cells rather than just 4 data points so you can really dial it in say on the cranking iac settings.

If any one wants to make recomendations on our tune, I am all freakin ears man.

Off to install aero on the mitata

Every setup is different, so it's possible that this may not apply to you, but keep in mind that all of these tables are interpolated. When you set the table you ONLY have to set values for the non-linear portion of the tune (whether it be for the IAC or any other function). If you (or your tuner) are wondering if 4 points are enough for a given task, ask yourself where the non-linear points of that function are and whether there are really more than 4 of them. I've never seen an IAC who's response was so non-linear that over its temp range you need more places, but it is possible.

As for the MAP axis values, yeah they do round, but honestly 99%+ of tunes will never need this precision. If you're fretting over 1kPa difference then you're really at the point of pushing the last HP out of an incredibly high strung motor, in which case this may not be the ECU for you. Keep in mind that, on the whole, the accuracy of these (and virtually all automotive MAP) sensors is really only good to +/-1 kpa at best anyway, taking into account temperature fluctuations etc. Having the ability to tune 1kPa values in the map doesn't really give you much due to this sensor movement.

That's my experience from setting up a few of these now anyway. People (and I'll be honest, tuners are a great one for this) do tend to get hung up on small things, but often don't consider how they fit in the whole system and what difference they actually make.

That is an awful place for your sensor. Since you don't have intercooler piping, there isn't really a "good" place for it, but as far away from the surface-of-the-sun hot exhaust manifold is best.

Just an FYI incase anyone else is interested. As everything seems to have gone smoothly with the 2nd beta run, I'll be putting in a small production run of 50 units in March once the Chinese New Year celebrations are over. These will be virtually identical to the beta 2 units, I'm just going to remove a few of the test points etc. Should be ready to go in early April.

Messed with the cranking timing and bumped to 8* and 12*. Seemed to start easier.

Having an issue with the unit connecting to shadow dash or Ms Droid. I'd like to connect through USB to my Amazon tablet. But it's not working.

noisymime, I will take one for sure, waited on the email for the 1st and 2nd runs, wasn't selected I guess, I NEED one ASAP

:confused: You were definitely on the notification email that went out.
Sorry about that, not sure what has happened there, I wonder if it ended up in Spam or something :(

OK so I tried plugging in a USB to blue tooth dongle and can not find the blue tooth after scanning searching. I purchased an Asus bt400 if that helps. Tried plugging in tablet directly to USB and it would not connect to msdroid which I think is better than shadow dash. Tablet would charge through USB connection. Amazon fire 7 is USB otg capable. Do I need a special otg cable to make this work? I am usually pretty good with tech stuff. Tablet is amazon fire 7. Any help?

I'm really interested in one of these, any updates for the march batch? Been itching to get my car on a standalone but cannot afford a full MegaSquirt.

These are in production at the moment, but still a few weeks away yet. I'll definitely post back once they're ready to go.

I have no idea about the usb OTG connection.

First of all, have you configured the bluetooth module? I think you need at least to set the baud rate. optional name and pin.

the procedure is in the wiki I linked before, but it can be different depending on which BT module you bought. any pic?