anyone got their speeduino from the last batch?

aussiepost is soooo slooooow they got my package on 26th April and it didn't even left the country....

edit:
went with "fast shipping" aswell

 

Flick me a PM, I'll chase it up with them as that's not right at all. Even Aus Post normally aren't THAT bad.

 

^
Australia Post sucks big-time!
More than once it's taken goods only a couple of days from being shipped in the US to arrive in Australia, only then to sit around for 3-4 days in an Australian warehouse before being delivered.
If your goods incur duty, add about another 10 days to that.
I was very proactive when I received my MS3-Pro, I tracked the package all the way and submitted all the forms electronically when it arrived without waiting to receive the hard-copies and it still took 5 days!

UPS or FedEx are MUCH better shipping options, even if they're more expensive.

USPS should be avoided at all costs since it's a crapshoot whether or not you'll receive your goods.
USPS lost 2 of my packages within the US (the last tracked positions were their arrivals in USPS facilities) and they simply washed their hands of them because they were destined for another country.
I can understand their position if the goods had arrived in Australia so were completely outside their control but both were lost in the US, inside USPS facilities so I'll never use them again.

 

magically it arrived a few minutes ago in frankfurt/germany. i have to apologize to auspost

 

Mine arrived (East Coast USA) yesterday, ordered April 24. On to VTPS issues.

 

Are you sure the NA8 with 48 pin ECU will work? My 94 1.8 is a 48 pin and if you confirm it works i will order one straight away.

 

Hello Experts !!!

Well, Here's my story....

I had a MS years back and sold it.

My son is now older, loves cars and somewhat trying to learn from me.

I'm looking to the Speeduino PnP for my 91 as an inexpensive way to teach him what I know about aftermarket ECUs and tuning them.

Am I on the right track ????

Thank you very much in advance for your feed- back and information.

 

Yep it should. The only variation I've seen so far that currently doesn't work out of the box is the '95-'98 Euro 1.6s, which require 1 jumper wire to be added (There's a post on it slightly higher in this thread).

I've seen 2x 1.8s with the 48-pin plugs up and running on these now.

 

Thank you very much !! I'm trying to make time to read this entire thread.

 

So, very keen on getting/building one of these. What would be needed to run true sequential ignition and injection on a US market 1.6? I'm assuming a different (individual) coil setup and adding wires to break the injectors out of pairs? Also, it seems the current setup uses a PCB-mounted MAP sensor with a vac line running to it, is it possible to use a manifold-mounted MAP sensor (e.g. late-model GM maybe?) and just add wires/pins? Forgive any ignorance I may have, still new to the ECU game.

Also, will this run fine off the 1.6 CAS or is it recommended to add a crank reluctor? Will the arduino want/accept independent crank and cam position signals? thanks!

 

You certainly could, but why would you bother? Running a vacuum line is very simple, much simpler than mounting a new sensor and running the 3 wires for it IMHO. There's also more risk of noise on the signal lines with an under bonnet MAP. Was there a reason you want to go that way?

It runs fine with the stock CAS, but that CAS obviously has limitations. It's low resolution and it suffers from any wear in the valve train components etc, which are just inherent problems with that setup. Using the Yoshifab 12-1 trigger disk is one option that a few people have gone with and seen good results. Moving to something like a 36-1 wheel on the crank is the best option for accuracy, but is a considerable amount of work.

 

Hmm, I read on https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/MX5_PNP that an IAT was needed if I were to delete the AFM. I plan to delete the AFM.

 

Adding the IAT is fairly simple, but doesn't require you to add a separate MAP sensor as well. Most people go with the standard GM IAT sensor as its cheap (I sell them for $22 with a wiring pigtail) and easy to install. You can just about get away without one if you're in a place where the temp doesn't vary too much and you're NA, but it's recommended to have one.

 

I see. I misunderstood the other poster's question then.

I looked at the Speeduino shop (that's you, right?) but it said "This product is no longer in stock" for the GM IAT sensor so I bought an identical sensor with pigtail from diyautotune for $.49 more.

 

Ah, interesting. If anything I would've assumed it would get a cleaner/more sensitive MAP reading with the sensor directly in the manifold instead of reading via a meter+ of vac line. I feel like a shielded, twisted set of signal wires would yield a fairly clean signal, no?


Ok, good to know. Were I to run two seperate cam and crank signals, will the arduino read both? Is that just overkill? Of the two, I assume crank would be preferred to eliminate any timing belt slop?

Does the 48-pin connector have enough spare pins to run true sequential spark and fuel? I figure I can ditch the CEL and the two self diagnose pins, just would need one more.

Thank you for answering my (no-doubt) pedestrian questions. Very excited about this option.

 

How's the idle quality on this ECU ?

 

Yes, you get a more sensitive map reading and then you NEED to filter it in the software to hide the pulsation from intake valve opening events, adding filtering to a signal adds delay, and so on...

shielding low voltage signals from all the EM noise in the engine bay from coils, alternator, sometimes is really hard work (difficult to detect and can vary with ambient conditions), the less you depend on those signals the better it is.

found this also:
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ecu-box-89909/

I only used open loop idle control and no issues, I can't really feel any difference from the stock ecu.

 

Sick!!! Do you also provide a 1.8 Base Tune? I have seen a few people that struggled to get their 1.8 started.

Going to order the ECU in a few weeks, so excited

 

In my opinion, the best setup is something like a 36-1 wheel on the crank and a single cam pulse. That gives you everything fast sync for starting, full sequential and good timing accuracy. It is a pain to get a 36-1 wheel onto the crank on these engines though, so I haven't seen a lot of MX5s/Miatas go that route (It's a VERY common setup on other vehicles though and very well tested with Speeduino).

It does for fuel (The California models run sequential as standard) and these boards have the drivers there already for it. You just need to cut 2 traces, which are designed for this.
Ignition is trickier though as there wasn't ever a version of these that had 4 drivers from the factory. These PNP Speeduino boards only have 2 ignition drivers on them, so they're limited to wasted spark, which is what the car is wired for. The generic v0.4 Speeduinos have 4 ignition outputs, but aren't as straightforward to wire in as the PNPs.

 

In my experiences I've found that 90%+ of people will be totally fine with open loop. It's what I run on my car and what the original ECU uses as well, so it should be enough. It's very easy to tune and typically delivers good results without much effort. The one thing missing up until now has been a 'high idle' input that can be used to compensate for things like the AC being turned on, but this has been added in this months firmware

Keep in mind that the IAC in these cars defaults to being partially open as a safety fallback position. So even if you turn idle control off completely, you tend to still get a good idle, just slightly high when it's warmed up.