Arduino as ECU?
#403
^
Australia Post sucks big-time!
More than once it's taken goods only a couple of days from being shipped in the US to arrive in Australia, only then to sit around for 3-4 days in an Australian warehouse before being delivered.
If your goods incur duty, add about another 10 days to that.
I was very proactive when I received my MS3-Pro, I tracked the package all the way and submitted all the forms electronically when it arrived without waiting to receive the hard-copies and it still took 5 days!
UPS or FedEx are MUCH better shipping options, even if they're more expensive.
USPS should be avoided at all costs since it's a crapshoot whether or not you'll receive your goods.
USPS lost 2 of my packages within the US (the last tracked positions were their arrivals in USPS facilities) and they simply washed their hands of them because they were destined for another country.
I can understand their position if the goods had arrived in Australia so were completely outside their control but both were lost in the US, inside USPS facilities so I'll never use them again.
Australia Post sucks big-time!
More than once it's taken goods only a couple of days from being shipped in the US to arrive in Australia, only then to sit around for 3-4 days in an Australian warehouse before being delivered.
If your goods incur duty, add about another 10 days to that.
I was very proactive when I received my MS3-Pro, I tracked the package all the way and submitted all the forms electronically when it arrived without waiting to receive the hard-copies and it still took 5 days!
UPS or FedEx are MUCH better shipping options, even if they're more expensive.
USPS should be avoided at all costs since it's a crapshoot whether or not you'll receive your goods.
USPS lost 2 of my packages within the US (the last tracked positions were their arrivals in USPS facilities) and they simply washed their hands of them because they were destined for another country.
I can understand their position if the goods had arrived in Australia so were completely outside their control but both were lost in the US, inside USPS facilities so I'll never use them again.
#406
The NA8s with the 48-pin ECU will work fine with the current one.
The 64-pin requires a bit more work and unfortunately will have to cost a bit more. The size of the 64-pin connector means it has to go up to a PCB >100mm, which means it goes into the next price bracket. It also means a larger case, which will cost slightly more again.
I have started the work on these, but not sure when they'll be ready yet. I will need testers though if you're interested...?
The 64-pin requires a bit more work and unfortunately will have to cost a bit more. The size of the 64-pin connector means it has to go up to a PCB >100mm, which means it goes into the next price bracket. It also means a larger case, which will cost slightly more again.
I have started the work on these, but not sure when they'll be ready yet. I will need testers though if you're interested...?
#407
Teach kid to tune
Hello Experts !!!
Well, Here's my story....
I had a MS years back and sold it.
My son is now older, loves cars and somewhat trying to learn from me.
I'm looking to the Speeduino PnP for my 91 as an inexpensive way to teach him what I know about aftermarket ECUs and tuning them.
Am I on the right track ????
Thank you very much in advance for your feed- back and information.
Well, Here's my story....
I had a MS years back and sold it.
My son is now older, loves cars and somewhat trying to learn from me.
I'm looking to the Speeduino PnP for my 91 as an inexpensive way to teach him what I know about aftermarket ECUs and tuning them.
Am I on the right track ????
Thank you very much in advance for your feed- back and information.
#409
Yep it should. The only variation I've seen so far that currently doesn't work out of the box is the '95-'98 Euro 1.6s, which require 1 jumper wire to be added (There's a post on it slightly higher in this thread).
I've seen 2x 1.8s with the 48-pin plugs up and running on these now.
I've seen 2x 1.8s with the 48-pin plugs up and running on these now.
Thank you very much !! I'm trying to make time to read this entire thread.
#410
So, very keen on getting/building one of these. What would be needed to run true sequential ignition and injection on a US market 1.6? I'm assuming a different (individual) coil setup and adding wires to break the injectors out of pairs? Also, it seems the current setup uses a PCB-mounted MAP sensor with a vac line running to it, is it possible to use a manifold-mounted MAP sensor (e.g. late-model GM maybe?) and just add wires/pins? Forgive any ignorance I may have, still new to the ECU game.
Also, will this run fine off the 1.6 CAS or is it recommended to add a crank reluctor? Will the arduino want/accept independent crank and cam position signals? thanks!
Also, will this run fine off the 1.6 CAS or is it recommended to add a crank reluctor? Will the arduino want/accept independent crank and cam position signals? thanks!
#411
So, very keen on getting/building one of these. What would be needed to run true sequential ignition and injection on a US market 1.6? I'm assuming a different (individual) coil setup and adding wires to break the injectors out of pairs? Also, it seems the current setup uses a PCB-mounted MAP sensor with a vac line running to it, is it possible to use a manifold-mounted MAP sensor (e.g. late-model GM maybe?) and just add wires/pins?
Also, will this run fine off the 1.6 CAS or is it recommended to add a crank reluctor? Will the arduino want/accept independent crank and cam position signals? thanks!
#412
You certainly could, but why would you bother? Running a vacuum line is very simple, much simpler than mounting a new sensor and running the 3 wires for it IMHO. There's also more risk of noise on the signal lines with an under bonnet MAP. Was there a reason you want to go that way?
#413
Hmm, I read on https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/MX5_PNP that an IAT was needed if I were to delete the AFM. I plan to delete the AFM.
#414
Adding the IAT is fairly simple, but doesn't require you to add a separate MAP sensor as well. Most people go with the standard GM IAT sensor as its cheap (I sell them for $22 with a wiring pigtail) and easy to install. You can just about get away without one if you're in a place where the temp doesn't vary too much and you're NA, but it's recommended to have one.
I looked at the Speeduino shop (that's you, right?) but it said "This product is no longer in stock" for the GM IAT sensor so I bought an identical sensor with pigtail from diyautotune for $.49 more.
#415
You certainly could, but why would you bother? Running a vacuum line is very simple, much simpler than mounting a new sensor and running the 3 wires for it IMHO. There's also more risk of noise on the signal lines with an under bonnet MAP. Was there a reason you want to go that way?
It runs fine with the stock CAS, but that CAS obviously has limitations. It's low resolution and it suffers from any wear in the valve train components etc, which are just inherent problems with that setup. Using the Yoshifab 12-1 trigger disk is one option that a few people have gone with and seen good results. Moving to something like a 36-1 wheel on the crank is the best option for accuracy, but is a considerable amount of work.
Does the 48-pin connector have enough spare pins to run true sequential spark and fuel? I figure I can ditch the CEL and the two self diagnose pins, just would need one more.
Thank you for answering my (no-doubt) pedestrian questions. Very excited about this option.
#417
shielding low voltage signals from all the EM noise in the engine bay from coils, alternator, sometimes is really hard work (difficult to detect and can vary with ambient conditions), the less you depend on those signals the better it is.
found this also:
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ecu-box-89909/
I only used open loop idle control and no issues, I can't really feel any difference from the stock ecu.
Last edited by lsdlsd88; 05-26-2018 at 08:01 AM.
#418
Yep it should. The only variation I've seen so far that currently doesn't work out of the box is the '95-'98 Euro 1.6s, which require 1 jumper wire to be added (There's a post on it slightly higher in this thread).
I've seen 2x 1.8s with the 48-pin plugs up and running on these now.
I've seen 2x 1.8s with the 48-pin plugs up and running on these now.
Going to order the ECU in a few weeks, so excited
#419
Does the 48-pin connector have enough spare pins to run true sequential spark and fuel? I figure I can ditch the CEL and the two self diagnose pins, just would need one more.
Ignition is trickier though as there wasn't ever a version of these that had 4 drivers from the factory. These PNP Speeduino boards only have 2 ignition drivers on them, so they're limited to wasted spark, which is what the car is wired for. The generic v0.4 Speeduinos have 4 ignition outputs, but aren't as straightforward to wire in as the PNPs.
#420
Keep in mind that the IAC in these cars defaults to being partially open as a safety fallback position. So even if you turn idle control off completely, you tend to still get a good idle, just slightly high when it's warmed up.