if you're putting this on an MS you know someone sells an even more convenient board that the one I posted earlier

The jbperf board?

It's honestly pretty easy, provided that you have very thin solder, a bottle of liquid flux, a high-quality iron with a good tip, and a decent microscope.

I've never tried it without all of the above, but I expect you could probably forego the expensive stereomicroscope with a decent watchmakers's loupe or head-mounted magnifier.

But, in all seriousness, surface-mount parts gets an undeservedly bad rap from people who are needlessly intimidated by them. Yes, you need different tools from those used for through-hole parts, but the skills are basically identical. You just use less solder and thinner tips.

<br />
<br />I wouldn't do it without one. Too easy to solder bridge IC pins.

I use the ST7 tip and .030" solder as it is...

That's probably why SMC seems scary. Pick up some .015 solder (eg: Kester 8806 / 9703, depending on your flux preference) and whatever the smallest tip Weller makes is. I honestly can't remember exactly which tip I used to use- it was a Metcal iron we had at work. Very convenient for this sort of thing, as the tips were quick-change. You just yank one out with pliers, shove a new one in, and it's up to temp and ready to go in about 5 seconds. I miss that iron.

I can solder a MAX9926 or a microMAX package without a microscope or a magnifying glass. 1%.

Aidan,

Can you explain why your parts list resistor values differ from the schematic?
You list a 1k resistor, but provide the digikey P/N for a 100k resistor?

It looks like you are only working with the Crank/Cam Hall or VR portion of the circuit; if i were to assemble this, I'd ignore the MAX9939 chip and that whole portion of the board?
https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/cod.../Schematic.pdf

No idea. I copy pasted this from the svn. It worked though. Wonder if I screwed it up. It works though.

Yeah. I'm only running the VR half.

Thanks.

Do you know the pin pitch and spacing on the 10 and 4 pin headers?

Normal? It matches everything I've ever used.

I'm just waiting on my parts now and trying to find a good soldering iron to buy. After looking at the Racelogic TC boxes and the variable %slip controllers they have, I got to wondering if this were possible with the MS3.

It seems like it is possible, given that there is an option under Advanced Engine -> Traction Control External %slip Input. This setting shows a chart where you can enable a 0-5V input and adjust the %slip allowed based on the knob voltage %. I looked around and ended up settling on a 6 position, dual pole rotary switch so I can put 1k resistors between each position on the switch.

That way, I'll have 0V, 1V, 2V, 3V, 4V, 5V (in theory anyway). I will then be able to hopefully set the knob positions to OFF(100% slip), WET (0% slip), 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%. Just like the Racelogic manual adjuster instead of the super fancy digital adjuster that has nearly infinite control. I chose the 2 pole switch so I can also have an LED indicator lamp for the knob position/mode.

The real magic in the race logic is using the wheel speed sensors to figure out how much you're turning and allowing variable slip based on turning. But it gets really pissed off of you lift a wheel because they're lazy.

That's badass. What switch? I want one for launch control too.

I would assume that if I use the wheel speed sensors I have already, but use them on the same side of the car (i.e. both on drivers side or both on passenger side). I have a higher probability of this MS3 traction control playing along nicely. And yes, Racelogic is magic, but this is $100 to try to get this right vs $900 for the racelogic system.

Am I wrong to assume that when turning left or turning right, both of the inside wheels will slow the same amount?

http://api.ning.com/files/p5DfxSv2mk...ackGuidev1.pdf
This guide gave me the basics and the idea for the LEDs and how to do the fixed voltage steps. I hope it works, I used to know some electrical things, now I don't remember shit.

He uses this switch for mode switching. MD00L1NCQD C&K Components | CKC7012-ND | DigiKey

I'm using this rotary pot for lunch control.
P16NM103KAB15 Vishay / Sfernice | Mouser
Kind of expensive, but it was a aluminum knob and looks good.

I want to use the rotary switch for launch control too so I have known values.

I just got all of my components in from digikey to build this board. Fuck me, those surface mount resistors and caps are tiny.

Get a microscope