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Old 04-04-2009, 05:07 PM   #1
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Default Finally bought a WB02, where did you splice for power?

I finally bought an AEM UEGO, it has been a long time coming. Anyway, I've got the bung welded in I just need to get the power cables connected. It recommends a 10A source, so should I do it that way and then find a decent ground? Any recommendations on which line to splice? Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-04-2009, 06:46 PM   #2
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Use the ECU power, or use the power from the MAF.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:51 PM   #3
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Default Used ACC and ground from Stereo will this cause problems

I went the easy way out and used the ACC power wire and the ground on the stereo for power since I was mounting it in the eyeball vent. It seems to work just fine but does jump around a lot when I am at a steady speed. After that a friend of mine told me that you need to ground it out the same place the ECU is grounded for better accuracy. Does anybody know if this is true? Thanks
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:05 PM   #4
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It would certainly rule out any guess work. I would run a ground and +12 from a cleaner power source such as the MAF. You can cut the rubber insulation next to the clutch master and use some wire taps to get signal, then just run the wires through the grommet into the cabin.

Wanna make the wires look clean and more manageable. Get two long strands of wire, feed them into a drill and twist them.
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:37 PM   #5
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It is recommended not to used power from the ECU. Leave the clean power for the ECU. Get a fuse tap and run it from the Cigarette lighter fuse. You ground area doesnt matter but need to be a clean ground and if it has two grounds they should be connected to the same ground lug.

This is Recommended for the LC1 I assume the EUGO should be the same.
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:17 AM   #6
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^ This isnt a space shuttle we are wiring. I can see the MAF and ECU being a lot better power sources then the lighter or radio.

I run my LC1 and Megasquirt grounds and power from the ECU, as well as additional grounds at the throttle body.

My gauge power however is plugged into the door buzzer power. Ground from the throttle body.
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:20 AM   #7
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I wound up using the power and ground from the unused power window terminal. It is right next to the shift boot. There was a 30amp already in the fuse box. I took that out and replaced it with a 10amp.

Has been working great for about a week now.
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Old 04-11-2009, 12:11 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
^ This isnt a space shuttle we are wiring.
I've never worked on a space shuttle, though I did get to do a teeny, tiny, extremely peripheral little bit of design work on the F-22 Raptor project. Their standards of workmanship aren't what you might expect. I don't expect them to be falling out of the sky, but I'm a lot more ---- about certain aspects of wiring on my car.

That said, it's not terribly important where you take your +12 feed from, however if you're interfacing the WBO2 (or any other analog device) to your ECU, it's very important that the device share a common ground with the ECU. Common sense might say that it's best to run a direct ground to the head, but in reality, you want the WBO2 to see any deviation from true ground that the ECU might be seeing, to avoid introducing an offset into the reading. This is done by attaching the device's ground directly to the same wire(s) that the ECU ground is connected to, as close as practical to the ECU itself.
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Old 04-11-2009, 12:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94mx5red View Post
I wound up using the power and ground from the unused power window terminal. It is right next to the shift boot. There was a 30amp already in the fuse box. I took that out and replaced it with a 10amp.

Has been working great for about a week now.
Just to contribute for anyone else in the future, this is how I did this a few weeks ago when I was installing my uego, tru-boost, and radio. I couldn't find any acceptable place to tap for 12v for the uego especially since it could potentially pull 10a, so I ran a 8ga. 30amp fused lead up from the battery, just like if you were running this for a car amp. I ran it to a 80amp relay (commonly used for plows, had one layin around) and then to a fuse block. Then I just hooked up a ground to the relay and a keyed 12v source that stayed on during cranking. On the left side of the fuse block is a bus bar which I used for my grounds rather than having a million things grounded all over the damn place. Again, 8ga. to a good ground. Popped in the correct fuses for each device and presto, I was good to go, I just get a loud clunk every time I turn on my ignition from the relay energizing and pulling in the contactor.

I know everything in the pic isn't hooked up...but its the only one I gots
Ebay auction where I got the fuse block if anyone is curious....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

DSC03258.jpg?t=1239420122
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Old 09-22-2009, 02:06 AM   #10
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Cspence: Is the 80amp relay overkill or do you need that much to service all those fuses?
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Old 09-26-2009, 10:17 PM   #11
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Would it be possible to get power from the power mirrors. Planning on this install soon too and I'm using aftermarket mirrors.
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