vteckiller2000

iTrader: (4)

Got an MSM with a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 running decently well at part throttle and WOT. Cruising around town leaves a little to be desired though.

I am having issues with it keeping a stable idle (and holding target) even though the PID values are all >0% and being used. When the fans come on, it immediately jumps to 3500 rpm and oscillates between 1k and 3.5k three times before the fan turns off and the idle returns to normal. My neighbors now hate me...

I am also at a loss as to what constitutes a decent set of values for air temp correction and CLT correction. AIT correction table was actually not selected when I got it, but I think it was still functioning just not messed with.

The car also is very very jumpy when transitioning from closed throttle (deceleration fuel cut) to low throttle such as when going down a hill and then going back onto the throttle when beginning to ascend the hill.


I can post screenshots of the settings and tables later in the day after work.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Hrmm... that particular oscillation never happened to us. You didn't change the fans back to both coming on at the same time, did you?

As for the decel fuel cut, check the tps percentage at which that kicks in. If it's set high, it'll be jumpy when you get back into it.

I can email you the original map if you didn't save it before making changes.

vteckiller2000

iTrader: (4)

I saved the original when I first read the computer, it is just seemingly not tuned for much other than summer/good weather.

C. Ludwig

When using VE mode the air temp compensation is done in the background. The air temp correction map, when enabled, is an additional, user defined offset. This map should not be needed when using VE mode.

Coolant temp correction will not have an impact on how the car runs when its at operating temp.

I've responded to your PM. Drop me an email and we'll see if we can help. When this car left last year, the tune was very solid and the report I got back was that it drove better than OE. No idea what has happened since, but anything can be fixed.

vteckiller2000

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Chris.

I saw that in multiple forums about the IAT correction so I disabled it after messing with it.

The car runs well when warm, the problem is cold starting and when it is below 140*F coolant temp. It drives like garbage when it is at ~120-140*F and barely runs/idles. I believe that it interpolates between the cold and warm idle numbers but I think something is way off on the idle and AE as well while warming up.

It also was maxing out the EGO correction at idle when warm and I had to turn up the limit to 20%. It is trimming ~19% at idle warm which leads me to believe that may be related to the poor performance when warming up.

I also emailed you yesterday.

thanks,
Cameron

C. Ludwig

Try the email again. chris@lms-efi.com

vteckiller2000

iTrader: (4)

Sent. I think the original email had two .com's

BARMY

Just had a 1000 put on my MSM as well. It has ID1000s and a new forged motor so the tuner has set the ECU up for running-in with only 6psi for starters and hasn't properly sorted tickover yet. More boost and fine tuning will be done once the motor is run in.

Interim cold start tickover is at 3,000-3,500 as expected by the tuner. When first started from hot there is sometimes no tickover for a while, sometimes 500, sometimes 1,250. Once running, tickover can vary from 500-1,250 rpm randomly.

The throttle is hyper sensitive to tiny changes at light throttle openings. There's also a low speed steady light throttle hesitation/dithering from the motor as if the throttle is being switched on then off then on - the same thing happens when cruise control on.

All of the above make it thoroughly unpleasant to drive a lot of the time and my neighbours hate me too.

I'll be watching your progress and hopefully learning from your fixes. If you wish, I'll also share mine.

Can the Haltech stop the immobiliser light flashing?

Can the Haltech make it not start on the first turn of the key?

C. Ludwig

WTF is a tickover? I had to Google it. I deal with Brits and Aussies on the regular and have never heard them say anything other than idle.

I could remote in and sort idle issues as long as the mechanicals are sound. Email me at the address above if you'd like to set something up.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Insert comments about Miatas, bangers, beans, and mash here.

vteckiller2000

iTrader: (4)

I didn't forget about you Chris. I'll read the tune and try to send it over this afternoon.

BARMY

Thanks for the offer.

Wherever I've written tickover substitute with idle.

In the strange world in which I live:
An MSM is an NB8B/C SE
Bangers = sausages, except on 5 Nov.
Mash is not a hospital.
Beans are baked.

BARMY

Car is back from "final" tune for 98 octane. E85 setup to be finished next week.

Cold start idle now ok, if a little slow.

Hot idle often drops to 500rpm and/or stalls.

Trying to drive at a steady speed either on the throttle or on the cruise control results in one second surges/cycles of -25 vacuum to 0 vacuum then back to -25. It's erratic enough that I choose to avoid driving at a steady speed.

The engine management light is still flashing.

The tuner has so far charged me for 3 days on the dyno getting to this unsatisfactory stage.

Thoughts appreciated please from those who know more than I do about Haltechs and tuners.