How’s my timing map?
I did a ton of searching and comparing and street tuning. I tried to find a map here that was widely considered to be conservative. I found a map Braineack uploads to the ECUs he builds, and some more aggressive maps. Along with my own tuning this is what I’ve come up with so far. I haven’t done a datalog yet to see what VD says but before I bumped the timing up by 3 degrees during spoolup and about 1-2 at 6000-7000 VD had me at about 187whp. There’s currently no audible knock and no OP gauge flickers.
My setup currently: stock BP05 T3/T4 china at 9.7psi cast manifold 3” turbo back mufflerless Hallman Pro MBC 10 degrees base timing verified plugs gapped to .029 i think I’m probably over 200whp with this map. When looking at different timing maps I had trouble finding some that had specifics like whether the engine was stock or built, so that’s why I posted mine in case someone in the future tries to search for a similar setup. I would like to make close to 230wtq, although I’m sure for that I’ll have to get to the dyno. But for now what do you guys think about this map? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...796978a74.jpeg |
I mean, it looks OKAY - there is probably some power left on the table, but looks fairly safe (safe is better than unsafe, 10/10.) 230wtq is going to need more PSI. Please exercise extreme caution comparing to others timing maps, engines and conditions can be so wildly different that you can get yourself in a lot of trouble. Spend the money get a real tune -- a must do, not a may do, in my opinion
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I don't believe everyone absolutely has to get a dyno tune. I do believe running anything more aggressive than brain's spark table on pump gas should only be done with det cans and under worst case AIT before determining it's safe. If you can't do those things then go back to brain's map and make your additional power with boost instead of timing. Doing it with boost will also keep peak cylinder pressure down which helps keep the rods in.
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Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1592522)
I don't believe everyone absolutely has to get a dyno tune. I do believe running anything more aggressive than brain's spark table on pump gas should only be done with det cans and under worst case AIT before determining it's safe. If you can't do those things then go back to brain's map and make your additional power with boost instead of timing. Doing it with boost will also keep peak cylinder pressure down which helps keep the rods in.
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Originally Posted by 95RedM
(Post 1592568)
Thanks a lot for that input, I had been wondering whether more timing or more boost would be the way to get where I want. Honestly the car feels great right now. I did a VD pull and it’s making approx 203whp and 192wtq at 10psi. Like the previous guy said though, I plan to get the car dyno tuned not just for more power but also for some regular issues like my startup needs work and a few other details like that.
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Originally Posted by Dr.Sep
(Post 1592572)
Right at 200whp sounds about right for what you're running! I also think it is a GREAT amount of power for the chassis imo, anywhere between 200-250 at the wheels is a quick little car. Not bad, VD is usually pretty close as long as your road is relatively flat. Good work
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MAT and IAT means the same. I would say, we pretty much all use it to prevent knock, when things heat up badly
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Note “badly”. Use with caution, as overly retarded timing increases EGT. There are posts about this.
Like you shouldn’t need any below 120*F MAT. Not sure when an engine does need it. |
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1592658)
Note “badly”. Use with caution, as overly retarded timing increases EGT. There are posts about this.
Like you shouldn’t need any below 120*F MAT. Not sure when an engine does need it. |
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