95RedM

I did a ton of searching and comparing and street tuning. I tried to find a map here that was widely considered to be conservative. I found a map Braineack uploads to the ECUs he builds, and some more aggressive maps. Along with my own tuning this is what I’ve come up with so far. I haven’t done a datalog yet to see what VD says but before I bumped the timing up by 3 degrees during spoolup and about 1-2 at 6000-7000 VD had me at about 187whp. There’s currently no audible knock and no OP gauge flickers.

My setup currently:
stock BP05
T3/T4 china at 9.7psi
cast manifold
3” turbo back mufflerless
Hallman Pro MBC
10 degrees base timing verified
plugs gapped to .029

i think I’m probably over 200whp with this map.
When looking at different timing maps I had trouble finding some that had specifics like whether the engine was stock or built, so that’s why I posted mine in case someone in the future tries to search for a similar setup. I would like to make close to 230wtq, although I’m sure for that I’ll have to get to the dyno. But for now what do you guys think about this map?

Dr.Sep

I mean, it looks OKAY - there is probably some power left on the table, but looks fairly safe (safe is better than unsafe, 10/10.) 230wtq is going to need more PSI. Please exercise extreme caution comparing to others timing maps, engines and conditions can be so wildly different that you can get yourself in a lot of trouble. Spend the money get a real tune -- a must do, not a may do, in my opinion

SpartanSV

I don't believe everyone absolutely has to get a dyno tune. I do believe running anything more aggressive than brain's spark table on pump gas should only be done with det cans and under worst case AIT before determining it's safe. If you can't do those things then go back to brain's map and make your additional power with boost instead of timing. Doing it with boost will also keep peak cylinder pressure down which helps keep the rods in.

95RedM

Thanks a lot for that input, I had been wondering whether more timing or more boost would be the way to get where I want. Honestly the car feels great right now. I did a VD pull and it’s making approx 203whp and 192wtq at 10psi. Like the previous guy said though, I plan to get the car dyno tuned not just for more power but also for some regular issues like my startup needs work and a few other details like that.

Dr.Sep

Right at 200whp sounds about right for what you're running! I also think it is a GREAT amount of power for the chassis imo, anywhere between 200-250 at the wheels is a quick little car. Not bad, VD is usually pretty close as long as your road is relatively flat. Good work

95RedM

Yeah man the car feels great. I bumped it up to 11psi she riding at about 210whp right now. It was 80 degrees today in SWFL so I opened a part of tunerstudio I never opened (IAT retard) so now trying to learn about that. Not a ton of info as it seems maybe Megasquirt doesn’t use this? I saw some stuff on MAT retard but not IAT retard.

der_vierte

MAT and IAT means the same. I would say, we pretty much all use it to prevent knock, when things heat up badly

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Note “badly”. Use with caution, as overly retarded timing increases EGT. There are posts about this.

Like you shouldn’t need any below 120*F MAT. Not sure when an engine does need it.

95RedM

Yeah that’s right around when I was going to put maybe 2-3* retard. Nothing crazy. It gets super hot down here in SWFL, my IAT yesterday sitting in line Chic-Fil-A got up to 122. As soon as I get moving though it quickly drops down below 100 like within seconds. Haven’t driven the car in full blown summer time yet though