How much timing advance are you running?
 

Just curious where everyone is setting their base ignition timing at and for what reason? And what kind of setup are you guys running. Right now I'm set at 18 BTDC with 87 octane on low compression pistons. It moved my power band a little higher in the RPM range to go from 14-15 to 18 BTDC. My engine now pulls all the way till i hit the rev limiter.

base timing is a pretty meaningless term when you put on a turbo and have a separate engine management system controlling fuel and spark for you.

my base timing is 720 degrees.

Since you have NO SIGNATURE, it's impossible to tell you any useful information. We don't know what year car you have, what your setup is, what ECU you're running, what engine it is, or anything?

Now, be a good NOOB and fill in your sig, and then fill in your location so we know where you are... locals might be willng to help.

sorry dude.. I don't do forums so im a little unfamiliar with that shit. I've got a 91 with a 1.6L built engine. wiseco 8.8:1 pistons, carrilo a-beam rods, boundary engineering oil pump, HKS 264 dur. 9.2mm cams, SS valves, supertech spring kit, full PnP. lacking in the ECU and boost department right now. I had gotten the car with a worthless JR m45 on it (internals scored and pitted very badly). I'm located in West Islip, NY (Suffolk County, Long Island)... now i'll go figure out how to change my sig.

So let me get this straight: you have a fully built/cammed engine and you're planning on boosting it without engine management?

Seriously?

HELL NO! I'm not a fucking retard over here... this is just where I am right now with the car. And I don't got shit for funds for the ECU and whatever I do for boost right now so I was just playing around with the ignition timing a bit to see if I can get a more desirable power band for this upcoming auto-x season.

FTFY. I don't understand people who will spend $3-4000 in the motor, but won't splurge for the $400 MS1 kit.

well simply put I had to scrape the money together to pay the machine shop for my block and head back b/c money was real tight and now that its running I just can't get the $$$ saved to buy one, life happens and projects get pushed aside.. FYI it took a LONG time to get all the engine parts, almost 2 years from when I pulled it out to when I got her running again. Now i've got a few pennies put away for the next step.

Now imagine all that money, all that time, and all that work blown up and sitting there worthless.

Kinda makes you think doesn't it?

I understand what your saying, and with all the work and stock tune it runs extremely well. She is a tad rich but nothing in the danger zone. No pinging, plug fouling, or anything. I KNOW that before I get any sort of turbo/super charger setup I NEED the ECU for starters as well as bigger injectors and an adjustable FPR. These are all givens. I appreciate the concern, and will continue saving for that MS.

Since nobody answered your original question, I will answer it.

How much timing advance am I running?

All of it.

What is your power goal with forced induction?

Let me see if I can re-direct this thread...
For most of us, speaking of "timing advance" as a single number is meaningless. Why? Because we're not running stock ECUs.

See, if both you and I had the same ECU, or at least the same ignition map, then it would be meaningful if you said "I am running 18°" and I said "I'm only running 15°" because we would both understand that this number was referenced to idle on a stock ignition map. So we'd know that you were running 3° more than me across the board.

But you have no idea what my ignition map looks like. I might only be running 10° at idle, but have 36° advance at 5,000 RPM at 80 kPa, and this would be meaningless to you, because you have absolutely no idea what your ignition advance is at 5,000 RPM at 80 kPa, and no way of measuring it. You and I are running completely different ignition maps- yours is whatever the factory programmed into the stock ECU 20 years ago, and mine is whatever I wound up settling on after the most recent trip to the dyno.

I'm not trying to attack you, just to educate you a bit.

If you're really dying to know, this is what my current ignition advance is:

Attachment 241311

All of it.

Stop trolling.

I should have quoted the OP. I wasn't asking you.

Well, back when such a number had a meaning (which was a while ago), I ran 14°BTDC. I added cowl induction to keep intake temperatures in check and never had pinging, even when the temperatures went well North of 100°.

I guess what has most of us stumped is the money that you've spent on a built engine. The stock 1.6 is stout. It was designed to be blown (as it was on the 323GTX). Unless you're going above 250, there's really no reason to mess with it. That money could have bought some really nice turbocharging and engine control hardware. I'm sure you know that now . . . .

Also, with a proper ECU and correctly sized injectors, there is no need for an adjustable FPR.

Joe tries real hard to be the big man but the REAL real answer is this:

start with base timing at 10 BTDC like stock.

put the car on a dyno with detcans (to listen for knock / detonation)

advance until the power doesn't increase anymore OR you hear detonation.

retard 2 degrees from that point for margin of safety.

save up for engine management.

Unless you want to up the pressure for more fuel...

How much fuel pressure are you planning on running?



all of it?