This has been pissing me off for the last year, just need some input. I hooked up my LC1 wideband last year with the digital gauge. Its working fine, reading properly on the MS, properly on the Logworks program for the LC1. LED lights up on warmup and stays on its all calibrated. The only problem is that the gauge just stays at 22.4 all the time all last year, and i would sort of like to know my AFR...not 22.4. So what wire did i **** up on? Thanks, Mike.

 

I have personally noticed that the plug on the rear of my DB gauge is &&&uckin picky. I can be driving around, everything working fine and then out of know where the gauge starts throwing figures near the extremes and sometimes freezes at either. The way I have overcome this is that I pop the gauge and push on the plug (fixes loose or tewaked connection) => gauge goes back to normal operation.

 

Shoot me if this is obvious and you've done it, but did you set up that output?

Mine was sensitive to voltage changes. When I was sorting out some wiring/grounding issues mine would peg at one end and then stay there.

 

Is your led blinking any error codes for a faulty sensor?

 

Mine just stays at 22.4 all day every day lol. But i will give that a shot

 

Hmm, what set it up through MS? I have done that in the settings in Megatune but never touched anything else if thats what your asking?

 

It blinks 11 times on start up then stays lit full. And if the sensor was faulty it wouldnt be reading on MS would it?

 

22.4 actually means 22.4% oxygen, not 22.4:1 Air/fuel. Do you have the black groun hooekd to the LED; is it stuck in heater calibration mode?

 

Nope, mean setting up your outputs in LM programmer.

 

At school now il let you know when a get home in about 8 hours...

 

No idea how to do that. It would never read on my old laptop but i used my new one yesterday and it works now so i can probably do it. Is there any instructions somewhere?

 

It's a program on the disc that came with your LC-1...figured you had to have done it for you MS output, since it's normally not set up for 0-5V, 10:1-20:1...

You should also have a cable to connect laptop to the serial out (unplugged stereo jack).

Here's some instructions:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...1_tutorial.pdf

Page 8 shows LM programmer dialog box, but rest of it is geared towards EFILive use, same principle on setup though.

 

No, it probably wouldn't read on either. If it blinks and stays lit, you're ok.

 

I would go back and check/redo the grounding for the gauge. Also what did you connect the yellow dimmining wire to (I hope you didn't just tape it off)? What are you using for the switched power source?

 

Ok just programmed it...still the same. Ground is by throttle body. And switched power source is the 12v ignition source which everything else is switched on by, i believe the yellow is going to the MS. Il go check the wires now though.

 

disconnect the black recalibration wire.

 

Cut the black wire...led just went out. Im writing up a wiring diagram right now.

 

 

Ok so the Gauge has 4 wires

Yellow - goes to brown on LC1
white - red LC1 and 12V
black - ground
red -red LC1 and 12V

LC1 there are 6 wires

red - white and red on gauge and 12V
blue - ground
white - ground
black - calibration button and led
brown - yellow on gauge
yellow - goes to MS

hopefully my paint skills pay off...this is how its hooked up in my car, it read correctly on MS and Logworks but not on the gauge.

 

Looking at the diagram....why do you have the gauges white wire spliced into the 12 volt feed. If its the Db gauge the white goes to the LC1 controllers brown. Also the Yellow is either grounded or hooked to a headlight power wire.