NA TD04 Spark map
 

Hey,

I would like to get some input on my spark table:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371473870

I still use my original clutch, it holds, on the dyno it did 170-180wbhp @ 10psi

Can you describe the strategy behind it?

Clearly the strategy behind it is to have the largest jumps in timing from cell to cell as possible.

It's a road tune made by a guy I paid.

The things I don't like are the map is upto 300kpa while the car makes around 200kpa and less and it looks to much pf a mess...

I don't fill I can tune it myself so I went to a dyno close by, this is the bhp and boost chart I got:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371535235

I think I will give the dyno guy to tune this map, I want to know how much off is it...

Its terrible.

Seriously.

Start over completely.

Just did:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372762566

The fuel does not allow further spark advance with out knock...

I will change to 98 octane (Israel octane that is) and get a 2.5" exhaust over my stock one.

MaxTuning

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372751186

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372751186

Knock Sensor

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372751186

http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/686/n24m.jpg

33 degrees of timing? Interesting.

Can you explain ?

at 2-3k at 10psi theres no way you should be at 27-28ish degrees of timing.. . Just no. Also update the rest of ur map.. if ur wastegate gets stuck closed u're fucked. Way too much timing so you'll for sure fuck up your motor.

30 degrees of timing at 1500rpm? LoL. Betcha the main bearings are crying so hard they can't knock.

I believe you are referring to the first map... and I believe you are right.

The new map is just a post above you. (all @ 12psi~)

You only posted 1 map.

fixed

lol thats even worse man, 30 degrees at redline at 10 psi? I wouldnt run that much spark even on e85.

12psi

are you really running 98 octane or 98 ron?

I can't imagine running that much timing on a stock block without it blowing up, especially coupled with what it seems to be a stock exhaust and a tiny turbo.

If you upgrade the exhaust you will unlock significant power...but don't stop at 3".

But I also think you're walking a thin line...

12psi... even worse.... especially since you dyno tuned at 18 degrees.

Could be the base timing is off ?

I have the last beta fw for my MS, the last base timing calibration we did was on the previous fw version.

no, that stays the same. FWIW, I can't get away with more than 18° timing at 14-15psi; running 93 octane.

your map is pretty much 10° more advanced than mine everywhere and I have a larger turbo and a better flowing exhaust.

Wouldn't hurt to double check it...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372765411

That's what we got, any more sparks and knock is at the door.

Double check your timing with a timing light. Lock it at 10 degrees and flash the timing light at it. Wait you're telling me you made 190 horses at 12psi with 30 degrees of timing?

yes...

(when you say 30 degrees, to what area/cell do you refer to?)

the entire 12 psi horizontal line.

Good news everyone !

The base timing was off ~8 degrees !

The new map:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372927453

old vs new

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372927453

2.5" pipe, 98 RON fuel, EBC and more boost - I hope I can get closer to 250wbhp

wbhp? lolwut

The "new" map isn't bad. Yes I think 2.5 exhaust will help you. 3 will help you even more. Though like I said in your other thread: I think the turbo is going to be completely tapped out at 220 or so, and any more boost is going to bump your midrange but not produce much more topend gains since it will be tapering back down by redline.
Not a good idea to have the knock sensor in that location. I bet its picking up a ton of valvetrain noise. You need it on the block IMO

It's pretty much the same as the one everyone was belming about being too advanced, except knocked back down the 8deg that his timing was out of sync by.

If the dyno operator can't advance any further due to knock I'd say it's as good as he's going to get it.

Looking at the dyno output it looks a nice smooth output with not weird dips or drops/spikes in HP/Torque.

I don't think that's a permanent installation, merely for the Dyno operator to use/listen through. Human ears are much better at discerning knock from valvetrain noise :)

P.S. US always use bhp as at the wheels, whereas in most european countries bhp is at the fly, either calculated or from a dedicated engine dyno, so to avoid any confusion the OP has preceded the 'bhp' with w to indicate wheel bhp rather than flywheel bhp :)

spot on, thanks :)

Knocksensor location sucks..

latest spark tables is similar to what i ended up with my old td04-15 setup. Did hit MBT before knock..

Stock block?

Knock sensor location is temporary for the dyno, with it plugged into det cans the location definitely doesn't suck

stock