Hi Abe, I wasn't sure, but is the above research apply to the VVT head? For those of us that have a BP4W head would the Evo 8 part be a direct replacement for the Miata cam sensor? Thanks.
- Jeff

 

Certainly nothing crazy. Probably in the ballpark of what you'd pay for the parts at your FLAPS, maybe $15 for the cam wheel?

 

Hell yes. Sign me up. Yes Yes yes

I won't be any help testing though. My 1.8 is on the stand with rod knock. I need to order another MAX9926 and get to soldering again.

 

Sign me up as well (please!).

2003 1.8L VVT engine in a 97 chassis with a Rev built MS3X. OEM COP setup, sensors, cams, etc.

Car runs great on the road, but the engine cuts out/dies at times once it is hot and pushed hard on the track at WOT/near redline. Engine doesn't noticeably stumble or misfire, just stops running. RPM signal is still present in the logs when the engine dies, so I was not suspecting the crank sensor. I see this issue frequently enough for it to be a serious problem and I need to eliminate it before next season.

 

Alright, I'll get a couple made up. Still pretty far from a "kit", but something I could send out and let a couple people try.

 

Count me in. I won't have a VVT for a bit. But will eventually.

 

Should work fine on either motor. It'll help VVT but should also help starting and signal drop-out on any.

So far I'm looking at a whopping production run of... 2? (Not counting the cleaner one I'll be making for myself, my prototype's kinda rough) Anyone else want to try?

 

Will it work on a 1.6 though...

I think you need a new thread. This one is full of some dry info. And a lot more people would buy in with a better idea of what the product actually is.

That being said. I would maybe buy more than 1 if needed.

 

I may have an opportunity to install this on another car 2. So count me in for 3.

Is a Maxim chip necessary, or could we run it through the standard ms3/3x input circuits.

 

For those of us back in the cheap seats, could you please take some time to answer this. Thank you.

 

See that post

 

Thought I would chuck this data point out there.

I had this same issue, running an EMS4. For me it turns out that it was not a bad sensor but bad wiring to the sensor. One of the wires started to break just before the sensor connector (several strands had broken, but not all of them) and my experience was as it got hot, the signal would begin to fail. Same as the OP - as soon as it cooled down I would be able to start and run normally.

It progressively got worse until the car wouldn't start at all. It was tough to track down because a DMM showed continuity through those wires. I could see the compromised wire right where it entered the connector but it was a pretty subtle thing. The eventual solution was buying a new connector, cutting the harness a couple inches shorter and re-pinning the wires. Have not had repeat issues since that new connector was installed.

Ultimately I saw this as a strain relief issue; as I changed the OE wire routing and removed tie-downs and restraints to install all the aftermarket gear, the sharp angle of wire entry into the connector coupled with no strain relief started stressing the wires as I would disconnect and reconnect the connector periodically. It ended up being a $12 solution to one of the most frustrating and long-standing problems I've ever had with the car.

 

I cant believe I just saw this on MTnet and not here.

[/QUOTE]

I could 3d print that piece from abs pretty easy actually. Someone should pick a less huge prox sensor though.

 

Did you figure out what you need to know? I think I tried to run a friend's 99 on the EVO sensor and it works but it's not full sequential: It things every go around is cyl #1? You're better off re-reading the thread than trusting my memory. :-)

I think you'd be alright. The wheel should be easy to read. The OEM ecu couldn't hack it, but that was a pattern recognition thing more than a sensor thing, so it's worth a shot. Either way, aside from some PITA soldering (and I actually have breakout boards for the maxim if you want to adapt your box), you should be able to do it.

Anyway, I'd better start another thread and get an order together.


I could 3d print that piece from abs pretty easy actually. Someone should pick a less huge prox sensor though.[/QUOTE]
I wonder what those cost? Certainly my little thing has only a tiny bit to do with the sensor. I like the idea of getting more VVT resolution and in theory being able to start faster...

 

[QUOTE=AbeFM;1301240]Did you figure out what you need to know? I think I tried to run a friend's 99 on the EVO sensor and it works but it's not full sequential: It things every go around is cyl #1? You're better off re-reading the thread than trusting my memory. :-)

Thanks Abe, you guys were just talking way over my head.
I bought a sensor a while back and gave to a friend to try in a stock 99. He saw no difference in the two. I'll have my car back out in a few months and we'll see about the sequential stuff.
Cheers
-JB

 

In theory there could be a wheel made that would go over the OEM cam gear to give you the newer pattern, but without VVT there's not a whole ton of use in it, and it'd likely be harder to make than the VVT one.

I discovered I wasn't running full sequential after a while of driving around not knowing. :-P

 

Will this work with the 36-2 supermiata damper?

@emilio700 is the 36-2 supermiata damper wheel a new offering? I thought it was 36-1 before. Is this the same pattern as the ATI damper, i.e. can it be used with the Megasquirt 36-2 mode?

@Ben would also might be able to answer.

 

I don't see why it wouldn't work. I'd rather see folks running 36-1 since I don't think 2 missing teeth buys you much, but it's all software. My own wheel is... 36-2 to make it work with that code but then I ended up not using it and just going with the generic poll level stuff.

 

Abe, that aem sensor is just a rebadged industrial sensor. Inductive proximity sensors start at like 10 bucks. And go to like 250. If someone cared to find one that would be OK with direct oil contact and was rated to like 150C someone could easily make a 3d printed abs or pc housing. Probably pick a 10mm prox and be good to go since body wise they pretty standard.

 

I wonder how many we'd need to make learning how to cast it worthwhile? :-)

Really, that's the question - can you cover the cost of making them with however many people would buy? I'd think not, since you'd have to be cheaper than the OEM/Evo one and that's pretty cheap in the end. The earlier post about checking your wiring is likely the best in the thread. :-P