O2 sensor viability test?
O2 sensor viability test?
any way to test if an O2 sensor has gone south? i ran my engine pretty rich (sensor is covered in soot) and burned a decent amount of oil towards the end of the motor's life.
long story short, gonna ditch the 1.6 and build up a 1.8, but am curious if there's a way to tell if my sensor feeding the LC-1 is still good, or if i should just add it to my parts list to replace it...
long story short, gonna ditch the 1.6 and build up a 1.8, but am curious if there's a way to tell if my sensor feeding the LC-1 is still good, or if i should just add it to my parts list to replace it...
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hmm, by the looks of it, it wouldn't have anything to do with the wideband controller, as it seems like he's depending simply on the reading from the sensor via the controller/gauge.
thanks, sir.
thanks, sir.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.
Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future.oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph.
Source: http://mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.htmlUse a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future.oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph.
Never tried it, just did some googling. Anyway, O2 sensors are cheap.
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