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Old 03-11-2009, 11:50 AM   #1
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Default $16 coolant reroute



A simple inline solution using an OE part. It's a bmw 2002 160f thermostat for $16 delivered. All you'd need to do is install an outlet piece with a rad hose sized bung at the back of the head, then connect this tstat. It has a pre-tstat outlet for the heatercore (which would need to be stepped down to match the core at the firewall) and an outlet to go to the rad. Then just plug the OE hole at the front of the head.

"to heater core" and "from cylinder head" can be swapped - and might be better for a more direct flow

I haven't confirmed the bung sizes but they look miata-similar. If I needed a solution, I'd risk the $16 on making it work. Confirmed the configuration/flow per this thread and pics. Is there anybody cheap enough to put $16 on the line and prove this thing (right or wrong)?
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:00 PM   #2
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HA. I bet that would work easily.
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post


A simple inline solution using an OE part. It's a bmw 2002 160f thermostat for $16 delivered. All you'd need to do is install an outlet piece with a rad hose sized bung at the back of the head, then connect this tstat. It has a pre-tstat outlet for the heatercore (which would need to be stepped down to match the core at the firewall) and an outlet to go to the rad. Then just plug the OE hole at the front of the head.

"to heater core" and "from cylinder head" can be swapped - and might be better for a more direct flow

I haven't confirmed the bung sizes but they look miata-similar. If I needed a solution, I'd risk the $16 on making it work. Confirmed the configuration/flow per this thread and pics. Is there anybody cheap enough to put $16 on the line and prove this thing (right or wrong)?
Rob, I'll pay you double that amount for it. How about it?

I'm finishing my engine build but my car will be back at the shop to change the oil after the first 100 kms.

I'd appreciate your assistance in getting it.
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:37 PM   #4
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Never mind. I was able to buy it myself.

Many thanks!

I'll be asking you dumb questions
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:42 PM   #5
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isn't 160 a little cold for a miata?
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:46 PM   #6
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:57 PM   #7
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damnit hyper, now hard was that ****. Really?


seriously, this is just shy of revolutionary
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:14 PM   #8
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This is the second time I've mentioned this- the first time nobody commented. I think the 160f was OE spec for the 2002 turbo, and later 4 cylinder bmws. I've found the 180f on eBay in the past and it was $25 delivered. Either way you get bmw performance, engineering and prestige.
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:18 PM   #9
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would this fit on that?

whats the bolt spacing for chevy water necks?

Summit SUM-371101 - Summit® Polished Aluminum Water Necks for Chevrolet - summitracing.com
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:22 PM   #10
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I thought the NB (or was it NA?) tstat/mixer cap from the front bolted right up to the back of the head? I've got all these parts but don't have a B cylinder head to check on.
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:45 PM   #11
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For the rear outlet, just get a thermostat cover from a Protege / Kia Sephia. Same orientation as the 1.6, but without the threaded hole for the thermoswitch.
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Old 03-11-2009, 03:01 PM   #12
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m2cupcar,
Damn, you're smooth!

That's great. I haven't done mine yet.

Somebody will bust a nut over that one.
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Old 03-11-2009, 04:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
This is the second time I've mentioned this- the first time nobody commented. I think the 160f was OE spec for the 2002 turbo, and later 4 cylinder bmws. I've found the 180f on eBay in the past and it was $25 delivered. Either way you get bmw performance, engineering and prestige.
That's because we had to let it "soak" into our little minds and scratch our heads for bit. He he.....
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Old 03-11-2009, 04:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post


A simple inline solution using an OE part. It's a bmw 2002 160f thermostat for $16 delivered. All you'd need to do is install an outlet piece with a rad hose sized bung at the back of the head, then connect this tstat. It has a pre-tstat outlet for the heatercore (which would need to be stepped down to match the core at the firewall) and an outlet to go to the rad. Then just plug the OE hole at the front of the head.

"to heater core" and "from cylinder head" can be swapped - and might be better for a more direct flow

I haven't confirmed the bung sizes but they look miata-similar. If I needed a solution, I'd risk the $16 on making it work. Confirmed the configuration/flow per this thread and pics. Is there anybody cheap enough to put $16 on the line and prove this thing (right or wrong)?
Rob, I told you I'd have dumb questions

Here's one:

I'm adamant about not using the heatercore; that said, what would happen if I block that outlet?

Thanks
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:10 PM   #15
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"that outlet" must be either the "to heater core" or "from cylinder head" - then nothing will happen. "to radiator" must be used. No need for heat eh?
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa View Post
Rob, I told you I'd have dumb questions

Here's one:

I'm adamant about not using the heatercore; that said, what would happen if I block that outlet?

Thanks
I'm trying to get a grasp on this reroute concept as well. I'll try to explain it as I understand the concept and if I'm wrong someone please correct me.

As I understand it the thermostat is used to direct water flow either to the radiator (if it needs to be cooled down), or back to the engine (if it is already relatively cool). If you aren't running a heatercore you would just run that hose back to the lower side of the radiator. That way when the car is cool, and thermostat is closed, you will be bypassing the radiator helping the car to warm up. Once the car is warm the thermostat will open and waterflow will be directed to the radiator to maintain a proper operating temperature.

So if you just blocked off the "to heatercore" line, there would be nowhere for water to go when the car was cool and something would have to explode, spraying coolant everywhere.
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:36 PM   #17
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No need for heatercore hoses if you're not using heat. The tstat still lets coolant through even when shut to allow circulation when cold, therefore no explosions (unless of course you run a radiator cap and overflow can).
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:10 PM   #18
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If not using the heater core, send the "heater core" outlet of the T-stat to the mixing manifold or the lower radiator hose. Doing so will promote greater coolant circulation through the block, and thus more even heat distribution during warmup.
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:21 PM   #19
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joe's right... as usual

Along the same lines, I found out that hondas had a manually operated heater line valve that could be used here once the car has warmed up. That would send all coolant to the rad. There's got to be electric version out there too. Here's the valve install.
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:45 PM   #20
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it's a solenoid valve and they're everywhere. you can get a fuel tank valve used on dual tank vehicles to do exactly that. it's got a NC and an NO port and a common port... just have it switch to the mixing mani or lower hose. it's basical what a boost control solenoid does but with bigger holes.
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