1.6 syptoms of a bad CAS ?
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From: San Jose, CA
1.6 syptoms of a bad CAS ?
ever since i got the new engine in, i got everything running but its been VERY LAGGY.
My timing belt is spot on, ive checked the first piston to see if its TDC when the timing marks line up and yes its perfect.
Ive converted my car back to stock while i wait for my mspnp to come back from repairs so im running stock ecu and every other bit stock as well,inj,ecu,spark plugs and cables, coil pack, stock intake piping w/ afm
Turbo and all is still connected but blowing to atmosphere.
i have to advance the ignition timing all the way up to 16-18* degrees to even get any power!
Is it possible the CAS could be the culprit?
My timing belt is spot on, ive checked the first piston to see if its TDC when the timing marks line up and yes its perfect.
Ive converted my car back to stock while i wait for my mspnp to come back from repairs so im running stock ecu and every other bit stock as well,inj,ecu,spark plugs and cables, coil pack, stock intake piping w/ afm
Turbo and all is still connected but blowing to atmosphere.
i have to advance the ignition timing all the way up to 16-18* degrees to even get any power!
Is it possible the CAS could be the culprit?
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,381
Total Cats: 7,504
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
This one is a no-brainer.
If the CAS is in any way defective, 99% of the time the car either will not run at all, or you will have severe (though intermittent) misfires.
If you want a definative diagnosis of the CAS, this is easy with any Megasquirt. Lock the ignition timing at 10° (by entering 10 in the "Fixed Angle" window) and then look at the mark on the pulley with a timing light. Assuming your pulley hasn't slipped it should be at 10.
Now, start opening the throttle to raise RPMs while you continue to observe the pulley with the timing gun. It should remain at 10. There will be some jitter (this is unavoidable due to the timing belt) but it should more-or-less remain at 10.
If the timing advance gradually decreases, all you need to do is tweak the latency setting in the ECU. But apart from that, if it passes this test and the spark advance isn't jumping all over the place, your CAS is good.
If the CAS is in any way defective, 99% of the time the car either will not run at all, or you will have severe (though intermittent) misfires.
If you want a definative diagnosis of the CAS, this is easy with any Megasquirt. Lock the ignition timing at 10° (by entering 10 in the "Fixed Angle" window) and then look at the mark on the pulley with a timing light. Assuming your pulley hasn't slipped it should be at 10.
Now, start opening the throttle to raise RPMs while you continue to observe the pulley with the timing gun. It should remain at 10. There will be some jitter (this is unavoidable due to the timing belt) but it should more-or-less remain at 10.
If the timing advance gradually decreases, all you need to do is tweak the latency setting in the ECU. But apart from that, if it passes this test and the spark advance isn't jumping all over the place, your CAS is good.
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