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BP-6D on CAS only

Old 09-25-2015, 05:37 PM
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Default BP-6D on CAS only

Is it possible to run a BP-6D on an OEM CAS only? Or does a 1.6/NA CAS need to be retrofitted.

MS3/MS3x
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:45 PM
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Yes it's possible.

Try disabling sequential, set it to batch fire. Miata engines run batch all the time, that one will too. Whatever ignition settings are used for all the miatas running batch on a CAS, those are what you need.

You can uplug the VVT connector and just not have VVT, it will run fine just won't have the low end torque of VVT.
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:47 PM
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Miatas run the 4G63 trigger wheel. I need a composite log of a 1.6 CAS to be sure, I thought the trigger wheels might have been different.

So far everywhere I've read says you need the cam+crank combo.
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Miatas run the 4G63 trigger wheel. I need a composite log of a 1.6 CAS to be sure, I thought the trigger wheels might have been different.

So far everywhere I've read says you need the cam+crank combo.
I think the OEM cas emulates the OEM 4 tooth + cam signal. I THINK, but I've never run a CAS so can't speak from experience.

On the car in question, just log the CAS and see what it shows. If nothing, wiring problem. If you're getting something, see what you're getting (4 teeth only, 4 teeth and + cam pulse/pulses, etc).
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:50 PM
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Crank angle sensor, yes. Cam angle sensor, no.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:53 PM
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So we can run it crank sensor only, but not CAS only. Hmmm.

Issue is I don't have access to the car right now and am trying to debug from afar.

My guess is that the crank sensor is wonky, or the trigger wheel is off, and its stuck at a shop. New trigger wheel comes in tomorrow though.
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:55 PM
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If it's at a shop, just log what it's showing and go from there. Way easier to diagnose it that way.
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:57 PM
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No see its at a shop that was going to do the alignment, not the shop that was tuning it.
Its also not my car. And I'm also nowhere near the shop.

Sounds fun right
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:59 PM
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Well whoever is there will need a laptop with tunerstudio to do anything anyways. That person should log the cam/crank sensors and see what they show. If they can't diagnose the problem immediately, they should post a pic of the cam/crank log here or send to you to post here for further diagnosis.

It does sound fun though! (glad this isn't my car right now... mine's sitting pretty... on jackstands...)
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:00 PM
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Yep, I'm just trying to plan ahead incase it is the crank signal then we could try and get it home. But I'm pretty sure the cam angle is not enough to run the engine if the crank signal isnt there.
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Yep, I'm just trying to plan ahead incase it is the crank signal then we could try and get it home. But I'm pretty sure the cam angle is not enough to run the engine if the crank signal isnt there.
It will not run without a crank signal. Cam only is a no-go.

I'm not sure how you would setup an OEM 4 tooth wheel without a cam sync. If it were, for example, a 12-1 crank wheel setting it up for crank only is easy. I ran a 36-1 crank only setup for years a long time ago, batch fire of course.
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:03 PM
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That was my question from the start. Can it run without a crank signal.
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:03 PM
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Also, and this is from experience.... If it was working fine, then died, look for the crank sensor wire about 6 to 8" up from the sensor. See if it got cut by the serpentine belt. Ask me how I know.... .
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:25 PM
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Wiring looked intact, again don't have time to check anything else other than what I've checked quickly
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:26 PM
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I think it was the trigger wheel. It came off the auction car and Ed managed to straighten in out. A new one is on order, hopefully that is it.
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