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1.8 Engine Swap Parts List
Hello all, longtime lurker here.
I'm prepping for a 1.8 swap on my 94, my current motor has had low compression from the time I purchased the car and getting ready for a turbo build (225-250whp). Parts I have ordered/are on my list so far: Exedy Stage 1 Clutch and new Flywheel Rear Main Seal 2x Redline MT-90 Gear Oil Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic Coolant BKR6E Spark Plugs NGK Blue Wires I also plan on replacing any old hoses I find but the majority are under 3 years old as I've slowly been replacing them already. Are there any other parts I've missed? Any other work I should look at doing while the motor is out? Thanks, appreciate the advice. |
if you have the engine already out of the car, I would do a timing belt, water pump, cam and crank seals, new valve cover gasket, and maybe a reroute while you are at it to block off the waterneck at the block.
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Originally Posted by CanadianBoost
(Post 1570611)
Hello all, longtime lurker here.
I'm prepping for a 1.8 swap on my 94, my current motor has had low compression from the time I purchased the car and getting ready for a turbo build (225-250whp). Parts I have ordered/are on my list so far: Exedy Stage 1 Clutch and new Flywheel Rear Main Seal 2x Redline MT-90 Gear Oil Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic Coolant BKR6E Spark Plugs NGK Blue Wires I also plan on replacing any old hoses I find but the majority are under 3 years old as I've slowly been replacing them already. Are there any other parts I've missed? Any other work I should look at doing while the motor is out? Thanks, appreciate the advice. |
Awesome thanks guys. Will definitely add all those to the list especially the reroute. I live near Toronto but it's a summer only car, I have hopes to run it in some AutoX and track days but I'm going for overall driveability, reliability and fun.
Appreciate the tip on the clutch, I wasn't sure how ~225whp would translate to ft/lbs. Looking at the FlyinMiata Stage 1 now. |
225 whp can have wildly varying torque output.
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Originally Posted by andym
(Post 1570620)
225 whp can have wildly varying torque output.
Exactly. I would personally go with the ACT stage 1 at a minimum and just do it once. IMO if you are exceeding that you are building the motor anyways (or will be soon) and are probably willing to have a more aggressive clutch in addition to having a more thorough understanding of what that level of power requires. More torque capacity than you will need > pulling motor and/or trans when you find out you didn't buy enough clutch. |
I might be you soon. Checked my compression and cyl4 is low. In addition to the reroute, transmission seals, etc, things I would consider:
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are you going to a megasquirt off the bat? which engine is being swapped in?
I went with the fm clutch because I anticipated forced induction eventually. I am pleased with my clutch choice. |
Check your oil pan. I thought I had a leaking front main seal on my donor engine. Saw the oil was weeping from the half moon seals so I pulled the pan and replaced those before I put the engine in. So check them out. You don;t wanna put it all together then find you need to reseal your pan.
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Originally Posted by moocow
(Post 1570623)
I might be you soon. Checked my compression and cyl4 is low. In addition to the reroute, transmission seals, etc, things I would consider:
Originally Posted by andym
(Post 1570646)
are you going to a megasquirt off the bat? which engine is being swapped in?
I went with the fm clutch because I anticipated forced induction eventually. I am pleased with my clutch choice. |
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