CanadianBoost

Hello all, longtime lurker here.

I'm prepping for a 1.8 swap on my 94, my current motor has had low compression from the time I purchased the car and getting ready for a turbo build (225-250whp).

Parts I have ordered/are on my list so far:
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch and new Flywheel
Rear Main Seal
2x Redline MT-90 Gear Oil
Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic
Coolant
BKR6E Spark Plugs
NGK Blue Wires

I also plan on replacing any old hoses I find but the majority are under 3 years old as I've slowly been replacing them already.

Are there any other parts I've missed? Any other work I should look at doing while the motor is out?

Thanks, appreciate the advice.

andym

if you have the engine already out of the car, I would do a timing belt, water pump, cam and crank seals, new valve cover gasket, and maybe a reroute while you are at it to block off the waterneck at the block.

Ben AZ

iTrader: (12)

I'd add a coolant reroute and a bigger radiator to that list since you have the coolant system open and the reroute is easier to do with the motor on the stand, but that depends on what you will be using the car for and where you live. I'd also get more clutch than that. A quick Google search says the Exedy stage 1 is good for 179 ft/lbs. You are going to want to exceed the torque capacity you plan to push, and possibly have more wiggle room for when (not if) you decide you want more. Look at Supermiata (949), Flyin'Miata, or Goodwin racing for different options. I'd do the timing belt, water pump, and all associated seals while its out on a stand as well. You may want to reseal the oil pan as well, since the motor has to come out to do that if it needs to be done down the line. On the trans, I would replace the input shaft seal at least since you can do the rear without pulling everything back out.

CanadianBoost

Awesome thanks guys. Will definitely add all those to the list especially the reroute. I live near Toronto but it's a summer only car, I have hopes to run it in some AutoX and track days but I'm going for overall driveability, reliability and fun.

Appreciate the tip on the clutch, I wasn't sure how ~225whp would translate to ft/lbs. Looking at the FlyinMiata Stage 1 now.

andym

225 whp can have wildly varying torque output.

Ben AZ

iTrader: (12)

Exactly. I would personally go with the ACT stage 1 at a minimum and just do it once. IMO if you are exceeding that you are building the motor anyways (or will be soon) and are probably willing to have a more aggressive clutch in addition to having a more thorough understanding of what that level of power requires. More torque capacity than you will need > pulling motor and/or trans when you find out you didn't buy enough clutch.

moocow

I might be you soon. Checked my compression and cyl4 is low. In addition to the reroute, transmission seals, etc, things I would consider:

• Oil baffle - extra insurance
• Coil pack - annoying on the car
• Coolant or oil temp sensors (with the reroute)
• That one PITA hose that goes under the exhaust manifold
• Engine mounts - might as well
• Front main - i had to pull the radiator to get an impact in while the engine was on the car

I might throw some cams at the car because I'm planning to stay N/A for now. I'd look around if a shop can do a cheap rods and valve spring build for cheap engine insurance.

andym

are you going to a megasquirt off the bat? which engine is being swapped in?
I went with the fm clutch because I anticipated forced induction eventually. I am pleased with my clutch choice.

msmola2002

Check your oil pan. I thought I had a leaking front main seal on my donor engine. Saw the oil was weeping from the half moon seals so I pulled the pan and replaced those before I put the engine in. So check them out. You don;t wanna put it all together then find you need to reseal your pan.

CanadianBoost

Thanks I'll add those as well.

I won't be adding any performance parts till next season, this summer is all about putting a healthy well equipped motor together.