Random wiring question. Is it necessary to use a capacitor if I'm running the ignition coils sequential?
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Originally Posted by tasty danish
(Post 968242)
I think the milspec stuff has to be rated to like ~300*F
I take this stuff flying daily, next to a jet turbine; so I have 100% confidence of it lasting in my car. Yeah that link is over the top, but I take some of the bigger ideas and try and filter it down to something more practical I can do. That link just makes me drool. The twisted pairs on the sensor wires is something I'll probably incorporate into this project actually. |
the cap is never necessary
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 968727)
the cap is never necessary
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2 Attachment(s)
I've finished the main connector on the engine side. The ignition coils will be on a separate harness. The brackets look kind of funny but they work. They'll look better painted black. Loving the Weatherpacks.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358324170 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358324170 |
Originally Posted by ReplaceDisplace
(Post 968802)
I suppose necessary was the wrong word. Recommended? Helpful? Beneficial?
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You probably want to epoxy that connector.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 968839)
I believe it was described, by someone smarter than me, as pointless.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 968862)
Isn't it for the tach? Run the tach off the computer.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 968862)
Isn't it for the tach? Run the tach off the computer.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 968865)
I thought the resistor was for the tach if you run an MS. My tach and whole setup works fine with no cap or resistor on the stock ecu (I'm assuming we're talking about toyota coils).
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Thats how mine works too I believe. The 94-95 cars have the tach driver as one of the pins on the coils.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 968874)
Thats how mine works too I believe. The 94-95 cars have the tach driver as one of the pins on the coils.
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the tach on the 90-95.5 is driven directly off the coils.
The dash tach is looking for 4 pulses per cycle. You need your signal input to cycle from low to high, ground to ~12v, in order for it to recieve one pulse. So the tach signal acutally has power running through it; basically everytime the coil sparks, it's switched momentarily to 12v, where it then returns back to ground. The speed in which the coils fire and the signal getting switched from low to high sent out to the tach determines the needle poistion. The reason we add the resistor is because the stock ECU provides a pull-up power for the tach signal, when we replace it with an aftermarket ECU, we tend to remove the pull-up. So unless you build your ECU harness to provide that pull-up back to the B/W that leads to the ignitor/coils, we add it back in the diagnositics box between IG- (the tach signal to the dash) and B+ (12v). Otherwise all 95.5+ miatas provide the tach output directly from the ECU. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 968877)
the tach on the 90-95.5 is driven directly off the coils.
The dash tach is looking for 4 pulses per cycle. You need your signal input to cycle from low to high, ground to ~12v, in order for it to recieve one pulse. So the tach signal acutally has power running through it; basically everytime the coil sparks, it's switched momentarily to 12v, where it then returns back to ground. The speed in which the coils fire and the signal getting switched from low to high sent out to the tach determines the needle poistion. The reason we add the resistor is because the stock ECU provides a pull-up power for the tach signal, when we replace it with an aftermarket ECU, we tend to remove the pull-up. So unless you build your ECU harness to provide that pull-up back to the B/W that leads to the ignitor/coils, we add it back in the diagnositics box between IG- (the tach signal to the dash) and B+ (12v). Otherwise all 95.5+ miatas provide the tach output directly from the ECU. |
On 1.6 cars the trick I used was to send the signal from the ecu to the ignitor and connect the two middle pins together. This has been discussed before.
-Raj |
if you remove the factory ECU, the "trick" has been tricked...
for example, my B/W and tach output wires are tied together in my COP harness, but if I removed the 1K pull-up resistor that I added later, I'd be without a dash tach. All you are doing by this is reconnecting the pull-up from the ECU to the tach output wire since you've gutted the ignitor where the connection had orginially been made. This has been disscussed before. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 968839)
I believe it was described, by someone smarter than me, as pointless.
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3 Attachment(s)
Finished the ignition coil wiring. (the engine side anyway) Got my Egr stuff blocked too. :)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358610742 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358610742 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358610742 |
Originally Posted by ReplaceDisplace
(Post 969881)
Finished the ignition coil wiring. (the engine side anyway) Got my Egr stuff blocked too. :)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358610742 |
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