12:1 E85 turbo build
Hey,
The car and new engine are here, Ill post what we are doing as we go and everybody can give me feedback, advice, call me a retard, all the usual stuff. The engine is a 12:1 built N/A B6 engine and will go into the white NA from the shitfight thread. I will get the engine apart and go through it and see for sure whats inside and as usual post plenty of photos and results. This time Ill be prepared and will ask everyone what they want to see on the dyno sheet before I take it. Dann |
Id really like to finally put a new turbo on this also,
Opinions? GTX2863r? Dann |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1155643)
Id really like to finally put a new turbo on this also,
Opinions? GTX2863r? Dann |
Goals: make upside down power and piss of 18psi :party:
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I like turbos. You should use a turbo.
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Nuge has got it.
I think a supercharger and 700hp dyno sheet will do it. Its a road racing car with 245 slicks. It has a 6 speed gearbox, so maximum reliable area under the curve and response. Dann |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1155701)
Nuge has got it.
I think a supercharger and 700hp dyno sheet will do it. Its a road racing car with 245 slicks. It has a 6 speed gearbox, so maximum reliable area under the curve and response. Dann and this on a supercharger? coolstorybrah |
Efr 6258
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Is this the car with the 18" wheels?
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Originally Posted by Ryan_G
(Post 1155704)
Efr 6258
Keep that torque flat at 280ft-lbs from 3.5k to redline. EBC for some boost creep by design if it's needed up top. |
Its got 20's.
EFR is out of the budget. Might unfortunately end up with a spud. ill keep everyone updated. Dann |
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Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1155701)
Its a road racing car with 245 slicks.
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1155717)
Its got 20's.
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He's joking about the 20s part, but i'm pretty sure it's on 18s.
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20's spinnaz?
ghost ride the whip, son |
17s. 245 slicks.
Not my car, not my choice. Moving on.. It looks like it will just end up with a spud, I'll let people know. |
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Yep, a GT2860rs and an external gate.
I'd be inclined to go screamer with a muffler but I'm not sure if he will be keen. I'll keep everyone updated. |
I'm pretty happy with my potato. Spool isn't ideal but you don't notice it unless you happen to be below 3k.
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Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1155701)
Its a road racing car with 245 slicks.
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1155717)
EFR is out of the budget.
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He wants lots of power, then says he'll use a spud.
He wants lots of response, then uses a 1.6. He says he's on a budget, then fabs up tons of expensive parts. I don't get it. |
Aren't 245 slicks about $1100??? Yeah my brain just got confused.
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The slicks come from Porsche carerra cup cars who are given heaps as part of the series and replace them when they are still very good. This is part of the big wheels decision he has made.
The fabrication I do for him at a very very good price because we are friends. The gt28rs can make 350whp comfortably, and in a road race miata 350 reliable HP is a lot in my opinion. The goal is response driveability and area under the curve. It could have a 1.8L but this very good engine fell into his lap and suits all of his preexisting parts. Dann |
the spud is completely tapped out at 350. I'd post the charts but you already know what they look like.
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Yeah but its area under the curve not peak power I'm after. I'm sure it will do for now.
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I'm sure it will "do", and I'm sure you can come up with a million excuses as to why this makes sense, but its just not ideal.
I think with your fab skills and with his use for the car, its just begging for a 1.8 and EFR. Even if you didn't go efr, I'd at the very least switch to 1.8. The spud will probably take til 4000-4500 to come alive, and that's a ton of area under curve he'll be giving up. Just something to consider. |
I tried my best to talk him into just giving Sav a cheque and getting him to ship an E85 dedicated BP build over, and then going to an EFR when more funds become available.
But when an almost brand new, very serious engine came up for almost free, the plans changed. Regardless it lets me learn about high comp and boost, and allows everyone else to see, regardless of whether the results are as ideal as they could be. Dann |
Fair enough. Where are those pics?
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Ill pull the head off and crank out and get a bunch tonight.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407656955 Dann |
So has anyone here seen a crank like this in a miata?
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looks cool. knife edged and polished?
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My crank looks like that! It was hella lot of work! Not sure if it's worth it. I think saved over a pound from what I remembered. More looked cool than anything else!
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Originally Posted by bcrx7
(Post 1156015)
My crank looks like that! It was hella lot of work! Not sure if it's worth it. I think saved over a pound from what I remembered. More looked cool than anything else!
Keith |
Air windage as our cranks don't move through oil, so pretty darn minimal.
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They don't move through standing oil.
Dann |
Crank is getting Mic'd this arvo, Ill order suitable bearings, then it will be dummied, we will find the actual compression ratio, then we will move it to probably 11:1 because thats what all of the local tuners seem to be comfortable with.
The GT28RS is here, and a TurboSmart 38mm UltraGate with V Bands will be here tomorrow. Then its getting an external pressure relief valve, a Commetic head gasket, block skimmed, quick hone just to put a fresh pattern on it and it will be bolted together and tuned. Ill street tune it n/a to start with and get the cruise and idle fueling and stuff nice, sort out the throttle response etc, then it will go to a dyno which I havnt decided on. 18PSI, what do I need on the sheet to get a result you wont bitch and moan about? Dann |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1156114)
Crank is getting Mic'd this arvo, Ill order suitable bearings, then it will be dummied, we will find the actual compression ratio, then we will move it to probably 11:1 because thats what all of the local tuners seem to be comfortable with.
The GT28RS is here, and a TurboSmart 38mm UltraGate with V Bands will be here tomorrow. Then its getting an external pressure relief valve, a Commetic head gasket, block skimmed, quick hone just to put a fresh pattern on it and it will be bolted together and tuned. Ill street tune it n/a to start with and get the cruise and idle fueling and stuff nice, sort out the throttle response etc, then it will go to a dyno which I havnt decided on. 18PSI, what do I need on the sheet to get a result you wont bitch and moan about? Dann After I am actually nice and serious in your thread? Really? PS: pressure relief valve? Like a "boost fuse"? :laugh: You want one? I actually have that piece of 1980's technology |
Yeah honestly, what do you want to see, No trolling this thread we'll both take it serious. What do you want, I havnt decided on a dyno or tuner yet, and Ill have him set it up in whatever mode suits you guys.
And no its just an external oil pressure regulator, a Peterson one, I used the wrong wording. Dann |
Aim for 350-400. I'd like to see what a spud is capable of at full tilt.
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See now I cant tell if you are serious or not haha.
I didnt mean what HP I meant what dyno brand, setting on the dyno etc. Ill get a video this time also. Dann |
I'm assuming .64?
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.86
... I dont know, a few tuners have talked about it probably being better with the high comp because of EGT's. Any thoughts? Dann |
Do it on a dynojet so we can actually compare to other people's plots. Uncorrected.
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.86 is what you want, Savington and Hustler would be here to call you a pussy if you had a .64 housing. You're a bloke, and blokes like that nice wide gaping... housing.
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What if I told you that a garrett BB turbo + a good name brand external waste gate + a good name brand blowoff valve cost the same as an EFR turbo that already has a very good IWG and has a BPV on it.
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:laugh: see, that's what I've been saying..
But whatever, I'm in for results. I don't think I've seen a spud runn ALLOFIT on a miata yet |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1156180)
What if I told you that a garrett BB turbo + a good name brand external waste gate + a good name brand blowoff valve cost the same as an EFR turbo that already has a very good IWG and has a BPV on it.
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It was a <1000km old genuine garrett for half of new price, and I am a turbosmart account holder so again, very cheap, also EFR in australia is very expensive.
Too bad for you guys but, I want to move to the states for so many reasons. Dann |
Have you looked into getting an account with full-race? Contact me on PM and I can share some info. You'd be surprised!!!
Cheers, O. |
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Not afraid that the O2 will be toasted?
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I'm guessing(hoping) that is his EGT?
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No that's a wideband. If it just for tuning I would not sweat it. If it's permanent it's time to move it down next to the V band clamp.
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Its for tuning, it has another under the car :)
Dann |
Originally Posted by Zaphod
(Post 1157527)
Not afraid that the O2 will be toasted?
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Was about to say the same thing. Its fine either way
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1157544)
Meh, look how long his runners are on the manifold. Combined with using E85, that sensor should be fine.
In the cryogenic air separation plant at my job we have what is called the "expander / compressor". Essentially it is a giant turbocharger where the purpose of the turbine end (expander) is to chill the already cold incoming air down to near cryogenic temperatures. Keith |
Fortunately Im getting the opportunity to tidy it up a lot and remove the fingerprints left by quite a few others, so a lot of the engine bay is getting tidied up, along with removing the cross bar that holds the front plastic reo and replacing with tubes to support the oil cooler and will support the ducting and the splitter.
A few questions in no particular order: This Peterson external oil pressure regulator, part number 09-0160 found at the bottom of this page: Peterson Fluid Systems : Pump Accessories Has anyone here used one? I have seen a lot of dirt track guys like them, and local B series specialists have touted them as the -proper- solution to broken oil pumps, rather than just trying to make them strong enough to cope with the pressure, this allows the pressure to be controlled with a very large and accurate regulator. Im going to plumb it in into the oil cooler, currently this has no thermostat, also the car has no oil temp gauge however I am fitting one. I intend to plumb this reg in AFTER the oil cooler just before it heads back into the block, this way the pressure is controlled after the change in temperature and this way all of the regulated, unused, oil will still lap through the oil cooler repeatedly. Any reason why this is a bad idea? Question 2: How much of the radiator mouth needs to be dedicated for the intercooler generally? I was considering a flap that can move up and down to adjust the percentage for the IC and for the radiator and just closing the gap on the radiator until it showed trouble controlling water temp and then opening it a bit? Question 3: What are people using to hold up front splitters? Tie rods? Any links for me to look at or pictures? Thanks heaps, Dann |
Guess I'm a god damned pioneer :D
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