Notices
Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: KPower

1997 Motor rebuilt now NO START! (Have used search)

Old Feb 9, 2016 | 08:11 PM
  #41  
deadohiosky1984's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newb
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 42
Total Cats: 2
Default

So I bought the spark tester and had a chance to test to see if there was spark. Nothing. Tried all 4 cylinders and got jack squat.

I rechecked the timing to be sure it was still set correctly and it is.

I am thinking maybe the cam angle sensor might have gone out? I may try getting one and throwing it in for ***** just to see if that is the issue.

I really do not know where to go from here. I have re checked fuses and relays, rechecked resistance and voltage on sensors and ignition system components. Any further advice is greatly appreciated.
Old Feb 9, 2016 | 08:14 PM
  #42  
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,398
Total Cats: 458
From: A cave in Va
Default

Weren't you advised to change the cam angle sensor, like three weeks ago?
Old Feb 9, 2016 | 08:45 PM
  #43  
jmann's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 488
Total Cats: 17
From: Grants Pass, OR.
Default

Well it only took a month to get you to check what was the easiest to check all along. I am not the brightest bulb in the chandelier when it comes to checking out this stuff with multi meters and other test equip.. If you have a spare CAS I would try it first. After that I wouldn't know what to do. Atleast now you know what you don't have.
Also did you reset your cams one tooth and put some more tension on the belt, it looked loose. Loosen your tensioner and use a long screw driver or bar and put a little extra tension on the belt above what the spring alone does. I think with like 20# of pressure in the middle of the belt with a straight edge laying across it you are supposed to have around 3/8" slack. It ain't brain surgery, just be around those figures.
Old Feb 9, 2016 | 09:32 PM
  #44  
deadohiosky1984's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newb
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 42
Total Cats: 2
Default

Originally Posted by jmann
Well it only took a month to get you to check what was the easiest to check all along. I am not the brightest bulb in the chandelier when it comes to checking out this stuff with multi meters and other test equip.. If you have a spare CAS I would try it first. After that I wouldn't know what to do. Atleast now you know what you don't have.
Also did you reset your cams one tooth and put some more tension on the belt, it looked loose. Loosen your tensioner and use a long screw driver or bar and put a little extra tension on the belt above what the spring alone does. I think with like 20# of pressure in the middle of the belt with a straight edge laying across it you are supposed to have around 3/8" slack. It ain't brain surgery, just be around those figures.
No spare CAS so, unfortunately, that is not an option.

I figured that if the timing light was not triggered on any plug wire while cranking the motor then the spark test would yield the same results. It did.

I will reset the tension per your advice. Thanks for the tip.

Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
Weren't you advised to change the cam angle sensor, like three weeks ago?
I was but I don't want to throw 100+ dollars at a guess before trying other solutions that are free. Now that I have ruled many possibilities out, it is time to go for the CAS.
Old Feb 9, 2016 | 09:49 PM
  #45  
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,398
Total Cats: 458
From: A cave in Va
Default

I have one for a 95. Not sure if it will work for you. If it does, 50 bucks.
Old Feb 9, 2016 | 11:14 PM
  #46  
jmann's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 488
Total Cats: 17
From: Grants Pass, OR.
Default

I would also change the oil after you get this to start for as much cranking as you have been doing with unseated rings and smelling fuel in the oil. You are breaking it in with non detergent oil right?, and if you installed new cams you need to use break in oil for the zinc content, if not just buy some cheap 30w non detergent oil and run for atleast 500 miles.
Old Feb 10, 2016 | 12:54 AM
  #47  
deadohiosky1984's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newb
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 42
Total Cats: 2
Default

Originally Posted by jmann
I would also change the oil after you get this to start for as much cranking as you have been doing with unseated rings and smelling fuel in the oil. You are breaking it in with non detergent oil right?, and if you installed new cams you need to use break in oil for the zinc content, if not just buy some cheap 30w non detergent oil and run for atleast 500 miles.
30W non detergent was put in originally. I have some on deck for when I get spark. I want to wait til I get spark before I drop the new oil and filter in.

I am poor
Old Feb 12, 2016 | 09:20 AM
  #48  
deadohiosky1984's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newb
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 42
Total Cats: 2
Default

Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
I have one for a 95. Not sure if it will work for you. If it does, 50 bucks.
PM'd
Old Feb 12, 2016 | 12:34 PM
  #49  
pdexta's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,954
Total Cats: 184
From: Knoxville, TN
Default

Originally Posted by deadohiosky1984
I rechecked the timing to be sure it was still set correctly and it is.
If it's still what it was in either of the "correct" pictures you posted it's still wrong. 19 teeth between the marks on the timing gears is what you want. 18 is wrong, 20 is wrong, 19 is right.

It might run with the timing off, but you might as well time it right before getting it running. You're certainly not doing your freshly built motor any favors by trying to get it running with your cams obviously out of time.

Attached Thumbnails 1997 Motor rebuilt now NO START! (Have used search)-wrongteeth.jpg  
Old Feb 27, 2016 | 12:58 PM
  #50  
deadohiosky1984's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newb
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 42
Total Cats: 2
Default

Installed the cam angle sensor and it still has the same no start/ no spark condition.

I have no idea what to do next.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe miata shops near orange county California that you guys recommend?
Old Feb 27, 2016 | 04:17 PM
  #51  
jmann's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 488
Total Cats: 17
From: Grants Pass, OR.
Default

Sounds like what you need to do, I don't live down there so can't help you locate a shop. If you can't find one that dynos or specializes in tuning miatas try finding a good tuning shop for any car
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 02:44 PM
  #52  
shuiend's Avatar
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 15,235
Total Cats: 1,700
From: Charleston SC
Default

Did you ever fix the timing belt to have the 19 teeth?
Old Mar 1, 2016 | 09:44 PM
  #53  
deadohiosky1984's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newb
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 42
Total Cats: 2
Default

Originally Posted by shuiend
Did you ever fix the timing belt to have the 19 teeth?
Yes I did. That was first before installing sensor. Tried the spark tester again as well and still dead.
Old Mar 1, 2016 | 10:05 PM
  #54  
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,398
Total Cats: 458
From: A cave in Va
Default

Do you get a spark signal at the plug that goes into the coils?
Old Mar 10, 2016 | 08:38 PM
  #55  
deadohiosky1984's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newb
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 42
Total Cats: 2
Default

Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
Do you get a spark signal at the plug that goes into the coils?
I have used a multi meter and checked the coil packs and also have used a spark tester to test the ignition system.

How do you suggest I check them?
Old Mar 10, 2016 | 09:48 PM
  #56  
Twibs415's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 615
Total Cats: 114
Default

i cant help but wonder when i see the pictures, is the tensioner making the timing belt tight? the pictures only show a belt thats about as loose as a motor with no tension on the belt at all.

the other thing we should know is did you do any wiring projects while the car was apart. i had a car not run when the owner installed his racepak improperly.

with the CAS removed and plugged in and the coils both disconnected with the key on, do you hear the injectors click one at a time when you rotate the CAS?
Old Mar 10, 2016 | 10:03 PM
  #57  
jmann's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 488
Total Cats: 17
From: Grants Pass, OR.
Default

We have determined he has fuel and he has replaced the CAS. He has no spark. He has fixed the cams and the belt he said, besides they would have nothing to do with no spark.
Old Mar 10, 2016 | 10:11 PM
  #58  
Twibs415's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 615
Total Cats: 114
Default

cas->ecu->coils. we dont know if trigger is coming from ecu to fire the coils. so by seeing if they trigger the injectors we will know if the ecu is interpreting the data and firing its outputs. just trying to narrow down the possibilities.

Another thing is are all the grounds attached? one at the TB, behind the intake manifold, the one from the engine to the body by the drivers side firewall, and the ppf
Old Mar 10, 2016 | 10:19 PM
  #59  
jmann's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 488
Total Cats: 17
From: Grants Pass, OR.
Default

If the oil has gas in it from all the cranking doesn't that say the injectors are being triggered?
Old Mar 10, 2016 | 10:29 PM
  #60  
Twibs415's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 615
Total Cats: 114
Default

It did run initially. so that's where you fuel smell came from?

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:28 AM.