295whp Rotrex C30-74
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After over revving the crap out of my junk yard motor I opted to build one with some good internals. This was a cheapish build that yielded great results. The secret (I believe) to a great torque curve (for a rotrex) is in the cams. These are WebCam grinds that shorten seat duration by a LOT and increase duration at .050 a bit over stock (think stage 2) and lift the valves .400".
While not impressive by turbo standards this mill should still be a blast on the track. Having 95% of peak torque available from 5,200 to redline will really help get the car moving. Issues with the FPR caused us to run leaner than desired from 7k on up. Once this is resolved the torque should not fall off as much up top. Supertech 10:1 pistons (11:1 CR after milling block and head) M tuned rods Ebay Header Rebello Ported 99 head with focus on exhaust flow. Supertech +1mm valves, SUB and heavy dual springs. WebCam grind #264 intake and exhaust, 110LSA, 108in, 112ex. Skunk2 intake (TC Design) ATI Pulley to max 120k blower speed at 8k redline (11-12psi) E85 fuel Tuned by Tony at TC Design Assembled by Rebello Racing. Trackspeed supplied head parts. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...whp-dyno-2-jpg |
Dat torque curve. LOL, all kidding aside that looks like an excellent track setup. Get some videos of this thing in action.
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Does this car have an automatic transmission? Torque converter lockup is that only thing I've ever seen make loopdeloops in dyno graphs.
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I've seen weird stuff like that on our Dynapack, not sure what all can cause it, but maybe a clutch slip or some other slippage.
Just pretend like the dyno pull started at 4000rpm, seems legit after the curly whirl. |
Those loops look like gear changes to me. I know he was also having a hard time with the dual 5.5 Tilton clutch. It has no slippage. Light switch on/off. Maybe that's why he opted to start the pull and shift gears.
I spun the stock motor to 7,400. The data logs never dipped below 5k on the track. With the forged internals the new power band will be 5,500k-8,000k. That is where the meat of the power is with this motor. |
Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 1062263)
After over revving the crap out of my junk yard motor I opted to build one with some good internals. This was a cheapish build that yielded great results. The secret (I believe) to a great torque curve (for a rotrex) is in the cams. These are WebCam grinds that shorten seat duration by a LOT and increase duration at .050 a bit over stock (think stage 2) and lift the valves .400".
While not impressive by turbo standards this mill should still be a blast on the track. Having 95% of peak torque available from 5,200 to redline will really help get the car moving. Issues with the FPR caused us to run leaner than desired from 7k on up. Once this is resolved the torque should not fall off as much up top. Supertech 10:1 pistons (11:1 CR after milling block and head) M tuned rods Ebay Header Ported 99 head with focus on exhaust flow (Rebello) Supertech +1mm valves WebCam grind #264 intake and exhaust, 110LSA, 108in, 112ex. Skunk2 intake ATI Pulley to max 120k blower speed at 8k redline (11-12psi) E85 fuel Tuned by Tony at TC Design Assembled by Rebello Racing. Trackspeed supplied many of motor parts. Duration on the stock BP4W intake cam is 248° seat, 204° @ .050, much shorter than the 264° you have in there BTW. |
I knew you were local, I just didn't realize how local ;)
Nice to see a Rotrex build where someone is using it where it does the most good (4-5k+) Out of curiosity, do you have a set of IATs logged for the top end of this 120k run? I've really never seen anyone log this, but I also haven't looked very hard :loser: Also, where the hell are you finding E85 in the bay area? I've seen one station listed in Sunnyvale but that's about it. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1062758)
Great work. That's more or less the type of race engine package I wanted to build. Super efficient, instant boost. What are you using for a BOV. I imagine it has to be a monster to not have PTFB, like everywhere.
Duration on the stock BP4W intake cam is 248° seat, 204° @ .050, much shorter than the 264° you have in there BTW. Here are the cam specs. ..264in............Stock in 243@.010.....248@.010 216@.050.....204@.050 108@.300.....062@.300 ..264ex............Stock ex 243@.010.....250@.010 216@.050.....210@.050 108@.300.....080@.300 Forget advertized when looking at cams, .080-.010 is lash spec so .010 is essentially seat time. Less duration at .010 means more dynamic compression, less overlap. More duration at .050 means more flow. More duration at .300 means the valves are fully open when the piston is at maximum acceleration through the 90 degree sweep. This is a critical part of head flow. |
Very nice. Another rotrex to touch 300 like TrackDayHookeys (sp?) and Falcons setups
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1062759)
I knew you were local, I just didn't realize how local ;)
Nice to see a Rotrex build where someone is using it where it does the most good (4-5k+) Out of curiosity, do you have a set of IATs logged for the top end of this 120k run? I've really never seen anyone log this, but I also haven't looked very hard :loser: Also, where the hell are you finding E85 in the bay area? I've seen one station listed in Sunnyvale but that's about it. University Ave in Berkley is where I get my E85. Damn tree huggers over there love the stuff. |
Haha, I wonder if they understand the environmental impact & economic sustainability of the subsidized industrial corn industry :rofl:
I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do with my C30-74 so I've been trying to follow threads like this around the web. I'm still an ECU away from reinstalling it, or the 80% complete FMII/2560 also taking up space in my garage. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1062801)
Haha, I wonder if they understand the environmental impact & economic sustainability of the subsidized industrial corn industry :rofl:
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1062801)
I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do with my C30-74 so I've been trying to follow threads like this around the web. I'm still an ECU away from reinstalling it, or the 80% complete FMII/2560 also taking up space in my garage.
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Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 1062764)
Thanks Emilio. Tial 50mm BOV. It is HUGE.
Here are the cam specs. ..264in............Stock in 243@.010.....248@.010 216@.050.....204@.050 108@.300.....062@.300 ..264ex............Stock ex 243@.010.....250@.010 216@.050.....210@.050 108@.300.....080@.300 Forget advertized when looking at cams, .080-.010 is lash spec so .010 is essentially seat time. Less duration at .010 means more dynamic compression, less overlap. More duration at .050 means more flow. More duration at .300 means the valves are fully open when the piston is at maximum acceleration through the 90 degree sweep. This is a critical part of head flow. I see they are welded/hardened/ground. A bit off topic.. The shortest duration cams we could find for the BP6D head moved the torque peak about 900rpm up the rpm band but only made a very slight increase in power. In contrast, the shorter cams we have seen for the BP4W bear more fruit. I think the VVT cams might end up with compromised peak valve acceleration in order to at least match the OEM .370 lift. IOW, I have a suspicion that one could reduce lift by say, .020 in a VVT cam but increase curtain area while keeping peak valve accel low and end up with more power everywhere, and keep the torque peak under 5000rpm. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1062842)
Never heard of this grind. Webcams site and catalog only mention one grind for each generation Miata engine. Full lift/ duration specs?
I see they are welded/hardened/ground.
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1062842)
A bit off topic..
The shortest duration cams we could find for the BP6D head moved the torque peak about 900rpm up the rpm band but only made a very slight increase in power. In contrast, the shorter cams we have seen for the BP4W bear more fruit. I think the VVT cams might end up with compromised peak valve acceleration in order to at least match the OEM .370 lift. IOW, I have a suspicion that one could reduce lift by say, .020 in a VVT cam but increase curtain area while keeping peak valve accel low and end up with more power everywhere, and keep the torque peak under 5000rpm. IVC is what affects torque peak the most. All things being equal +10 duration at .050 = 500rpm higher torque peak. All of those cams I looked at would work on the VVT. I have a great grind in mind for a NA car that should work well with VVT. The bigger cams @ .050 help offset lift ramps. You will end up using less of the VVT adjustment though. I would not hesitate running the same #264 grind that I did. With VVT adjustment you will carry peak torque to redline and have better power below 5,200 than stock. I would be happy to help guide you through cam selection if you like. |
Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 1062813)
The choice IMHO comes down to street/HPDE car vs dedicated stripped track car. For street/HPDE the turbo is the way to go. I strongly encourage you to run the Tial GT2868 turbo though.
2868? I've got an Nissan T25 and a brand new GT2560R sitting in the garage. If I buy another turbo chances are it will be a used 2860RS potato. I have no aspirations for 300hp. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1062860)
To be honest, that's pretty much the direction I've been moving in.
2868? I've got an Nissan T25 and a brand new GT2560R sitting in the garage. If I buy another turbo chances are it will be a used 2860RS potato. I have no aspirations for 300hp. |
Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 1062853)
They have a LOT more grinds available than what is listed on the catalog. I worked with Faith over there, she was great! I asked for grinds with around .400 lift and duration between 210-230 @.050, I got 15 options. I opted for the hardwelding but they could have used billet blanks if you have em. I have one exhaust blank (up for grabs if you want it). IMHO the hardwelding is better.
Based on port flow data from ported heads I have seen I would not decrease lift. That is what will help your torque. I played with this a bunch on another NA motor project. For the most part more lift = more torque assuming the head supports it. No real downside other than controlling the valve. Just because the factory cam hammers the valves at .370 lift does not mean that the lift is the problem. Don't shy away from lift because of that. IVC is what affects torque peak the most. All things being equal +10 duration at .050 = 500rpm higher torque peak. All of those cams I looked at would work on the VVT. I have a great grind in mind for a NA car that should work well with VVT. The bigger cams @ .050 help offset lift ramps. You will end up using less of the VVT adjustment though. I would not hesitate running the same #264 grind that I did. With VVT adjustment you will carry peak torque to redline and have better power below 5,200 than stock. I would be happy to help guide you through cam selection if you like. We're in the process of making our own SuperMiata branded chill cast blanks to support up to about .475 lift with the BP6D, BP4W intake/exhaust cams. Probably Q1/14 before we have those here though. Until then, it's weld/grind. |
Not to derail this any further, but a very quick google search does not produce a compressor map for the 2868. No map no care. Forced Performance will do the 2868 "upgrade" to the (68mm HTA billet compressor wheel) customer supplied RS for a whopping $700. I found a bunch of Audi guys saying this is 48lb/min, up from the stock 35lb/min potato wheel. While this sounds super awesome, it's probably too much turbo for my 225-250hp goal and way too much money.
If I'm doing the math correctly, the potato puts me right in the fat part of the efficiency curve in the middle of the compressor map. The 2560 will meet my goals with some room to spare and the 2860RS will do the same with better efficiency and even more headroom. The T25/28RS footprint is fine, and parts are cheap and plentiful. If I wanted to spend that kind of money FOR A THIRD TIME I'd buy the TSE EFR 6258 kit and be done with it. But yeah, turbo. You interested at all in buying a spare C30-74 head unit? :party: |
Does anyone think the Ebay header is leaving power on the table? I recently came across some posts that thought the ebay header was junk.
The one I have looks like a RB 4-2-1 copy. It's not the real deal cause the flange looks different than the Racing Beat pics. |
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