I was shipped a head to inspect and go through.
Not a super fancy build, but just a solid rebuild.

The head was packaged well for shipping.
This is the inner box
Wrapped in plastic

I did not need the cam gears, but they will be cleaned and returned.

Out of the plastic.
2 layers of cardboard.


The head looks good to the eyeball, oily, but no sludge build up


The HG surface looks ok, no pitting or heavy rot


Removing the cams


The cam towers look good, no scratches or scoring


Stock springs


Valve springs removed


Pulling the valve stem seals


The old seals


Removing the spring shims


Removing the oil galley plugs


Cleaning the HG surface


The long board barely scratches the surface


The Machinist round edge and the feeler gauge


You can see the gap, This head is warped a fair amount.


A .012 is sticky under the round bar
When the head is thremal cleaned, I will straighten at the same time.
I would like to see less than .005 once done.


Checking the cam towers for distortion


No nocticable rock in the intake towers, minimal in the exhaust.
Ill check it again after it is straigten

More to come.....

 

Thanks. I'm about to have this done.

 

Why you cry?

Its not all that bad. It is rather simple.

 

I have a head sitting in the shop that's warped .012" that's labeled "Junk" and "Parts head". Hopefully the buyer knew it was that bad before he bought it.

 

How the the living hell do you "straighten" 0.012" out of a head, other than to deck it? Won't that significantly change the chamber CC?

Glad you're back Bogus

 

Yes if you mill a head .012 it will close up the combustion chambers.

The general rule of thumb is for every .007 milled the combustion chamber looses 1cc

So time this head is milled .012 -.014 it would be 2cc smaller.

When the head is set to be straightened, Ill post up.

I have salvaged heads that have had as much as .030-.035 warp across the bottom and had .005 or so cam tower warp.

Alot shops will not straighten a head, either they do not know how, or they just do not want to.
It takes some time, and sometimes you will not get all the warp out the first time.

Just a little more machine shop voodoo to show you all is why Ill straighten this one, instead of just grabbing a core to do.

 

Gotcha, makes more sense now. I could see why most shops would not want to touch a DOHC head with a twist in it. I know my guy took a hell of a cut on the FE D2TE heads in my truck, but that thing needs all the compression it can get so I wasn't really worried about it.

Out of curiosity, what's the factory max recommended cut on one of these heads, and how much does it take before you start screwing with timing?

 

+1
and decent quality pictures makes it even better

 

Alot of shops have older machinists that started off on the domestic v8 engines, and they have not moved into the import engine. They just do not get it. Also this is a fading trade, the avarage age of a machinist is in the 40-50.

The min thickness on a BP engine? Humm Ill have to check my AREA spec book.
But most the time it is about .015.

When will the timing be effected, That starts the first time the head is milled, but on a DOHC it is not as noticable as a SOHC

Anytime the C2C of cams to crank is changed the mechicanical timing is changed.



Thanks!

 

Thanks again Dale. I just finished torquing down the rods when you called.



Going to try to get engine buttoned back up and in car by tonight.

 

Did you balance the rotating assembly? or at the at least the new rods and pistons?

 

I would like to know more about the head fix. I have a warped 94 1.8L head and figured it was junk.

 

I would like to see your method for removing the valves on a miata head. That's one of the few things I'm unable to do in my own garage.

 

Yes. I made a ghetto make shift fixture of the tool you have and got everything within a gram with my on sale $12 Harbor Freight scale. Highspeed grinder and belt sander took care of the rest.

 

IIRC, the FSM says max cut on the head is .012 but people exceed that all the time. EP motors are cut .050", IIRC. You start screwing with the timing immediately, but you can correct for that with cam gears (or one cam gear and VVT tuning).

 

I think I have a man-crush on BogusSVO. This gives me more motivation to get enrolled at The Most Respected Name in Motorsports Education - School of Automotive Machinists.

 

Hmm, I'll be interested to see if you use a variation of the oven bake method or the torch method to straighten the head.

 

Good deal! how were they out the box?

Thanks on the info from the FSM!
Adjustable cam gears... what a great invention!


I looked into going to that school a few years back, I wanted to take just a few classes, to build on what I already knew. But I could not take just a class or 3 They wanted me to take the full 2 year corse. Then I flipped the book over and checked the credentials of the instructors, I giggled to myself when I read them, I had about the same, years of experiance, ASE certs. When I called to talk to them about the equipment they trained on, Serdi 100 head shop, not a bad machine, IMHO a bit sloppy, but simple to use. Surfacing was a segment stone grinder, Not a CBN/PCD milling machine.

I will oven bake, The torch method leaves ugly marks, and is an out of date method.

 

Well a few have shown intrest on how this will be done.

What is needed.

A steel plate, with properly placed holes.
A torque wrench, and socket
Pull bolts
Head bolt washers
Body washers
Anti-sieze
Shim stock



Place head bolt washers on the pull pins


Place the pull pins through the head bolt holes and through the steel plate.


Now coat the shim stock with anti-sieze and place under the head.
The anti-size will give the head some lube to slip on as the head straightens out.


Now place the washers on the pull pins, and snug the nuts down. Roll the head and fixture over and torque the pull pins.


The head and plate fixture will be placed in an oven for several hours, the temp will be watched closely, to bring it up to temp slowly, then stablized for a couple hours, then temp will be dropped slowly untill back to room temp.

 

Just curious and I'm assuming the answer is no. But would it make much of a difference to to have the cams torqued in when the head is cooked?