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Old 12-24-2012, 04:49 PM   #21
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I never straightend one with the cams in.

I do not see any reason to do it like that.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:25 PM   #22
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Only reason I see is to try and keep the cam journals in line. If you've never had a problem with it I'm guessing you either line bore after or it doesn't affect the cam journals.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:34 PM   #23
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So a random question for you Bogus. Is it possible to set correct valve clearance with the head detached from the block? I know in the FSM it says to put the cams at specific spots when measuring, so I was wondering how you do that without the Timing belt on to hold them in the correct locations.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:58 PM   #24
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So a random question for you Bogus. Is it possible to set correct valve clearance with the head detached from the block? I know in the FSM it says to put the cams at specific spots when measuring, so I was wondering how you do that without the Timing belt on to hold them in the correct locations.
Not directed at me, but it's totally doable. You just need to set the lobe pointed away from the lifters you're checking, and that sets another set of lobes pointed straight down at a set of lifters. You can't do it with the head laying flat on a bench (at least not without being careful), but you can definitely get the cams to stay where they are without the TB. I do the valve lash on our new motors before the TB or cam gears go on.
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Old 12-25-2012, 10:53 AM   #25
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Only reason I see is to try and keep the cam journals in line. If you've never had a problem with it I'm guessing you either line bore after or it doesn't affect the cam journals.
The cams would still flex in the bores, they are not ridged enough to help with alignment.

With this head was warped .012 across the bottpm, but the intake cam bore was still perfect, and the exhaust side had about .002

I could see more issues having the cam in with the bolts for the caps , galluing and ripping the threads out.



Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
So a random question for you Bogus. Is it possible to set correct valve clearance with the head detached from the block? I know in the FSM it says to put the cams at specific spots when measuring, so I was wondering how you do that without the Timing belt on to hold them in the correct locations.
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Not directed at me, but it's totally doable. You just need to set the lobe pointed away from the lifters you're checking, and that sets another set of lobes pointed straight down at a set of lifters. You can't do it with the head laying flat on a bench (at least not without being careful), but you can definitely get the cams to stay where they are without the TB. I do the valve lash on our new motors before the TB or cam gears go on.


Like Sav said, as long as the lash you are setting, the cam is on the heel you can set it.
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:21 PM   #26
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nice to see your back! we bolted my head up and still waiting for the fabricator to finish up so we can get tuning! Is this Aarans head?
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:43 PM   #27
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HW.. No, Not Aarons head....His is getting much more involved....

Just a customers sent in for some play time.

Dang.. I was wanting to hear some reports on how yours was doing!!
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:11 PM   #28
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The straignting worked.

.005 is a tad "sticky" going under, and a .006 will not go.

99/00 1.8 BP Head inspection-img_1620.jpg

Now to carry on with the head build
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:24 PM   #29
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Damn! What kind of temps are we talking about?
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:34 PM   #30
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Damn! What kind of temps are we talking about?
Not as much as you would think.

Get the head too hot and all the machined areas will distort, like the cam bores and bucket bores.

No more than 350* and longer than it takes to bake a 20lbs turkey!

It spent 7 hours in the oven.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:53 PM   #31
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Not as much as you would think.

Get the head too hot and all the machined areas will distort, like the cam bores and bucket bores.

No more than 350* and longer than it takes to bake a 20lbs turkey!

It spent 7 hours in the oven.
So do you have an oven at the shop, or do you take it home to do that part?
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:50 PM   #32
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Quote:
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So do you have an oven at the shop, or do you take it home to do that part?
I would not put anything with anti-sieze in my home oven.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:12 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
So do you have an oven at the shop, or do you take it home to do that part?

I have a gas fired one at the shop I clean heads and other parts in.


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I would not put anything with anti-sieze in my home oven.
I do not think the anti-sieze would be what i worry about, but the burning smell of oil and carbon burning off.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:50 PM   #34
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This is relevant to my interests. Subscrib'd.

Bogus, do you always just bolt down the center of the head when you straighten them like that?
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:40 PM   #35
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You bolt down where the worst of the warp is, and commonly that is the center.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:43 AM   #36
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very interesting.
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:44 PM   #37
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I'm sure there is some mystical art in selecting the shim stock thickness and then torque spec to the plate as well. That looks like a big *** chunk of steel right thar.

This is what I was thinking when I asked about "straightening" earlier. I honestly didn't think you were going to deck 0.012" off this thing. Do you find that you have to line hone the cam bores after the the trip to the oven?
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:50 PM   #38
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It is a big ol' cunk of steel. lol

The line bore of the cams is fine, no need to line hone. They were not far off to begin with.

No measurable distortion on the intake and less than .002 on the exhaust.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:22 PM   #39
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I wonder if I can find a local shop as good as you.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:51 PM   #40
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I couldn't. That's why you're looking at it.
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