Aluminum Con Rods
11-24-2009, 08:16 AM
#26
I went to the BME website, and now I am starting to think that the downshift thing about aluminum rods is a myth. Apparently you have to have different clearences, because the rod stretches and changes size more than steel rods from changes in heat.
Oops.
Oops.
Last edited by miata2fast; 11-24-2009 at 03:46 PM.
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11-24-2009, 11:31 AM
#27
$100ea... for the bolts.
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11-24-2009, 02:07 PM
#29
for the honda B-series...
PAECO Industries Chromoly And Titanium Connecting RodsDescription: PAECO Industries offers chromoly and titanium connecting rods made to order. Chromoly rods are made from 4340 alloy are forged and shotpeened made with cross-grain flow between rod body and cap for strength and longevity. The titanium rods, both half the weight and twice the strength of steel, are forged and plated to remove any possible stress risers.*Price per rod, chromoly: $240*Price per rod, titanium: $570*Contact PAECO Industries at (800) 326-6401 or PAECO Industries.
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11-25-2009, 09:50 AM
#33
what brand of rod was that, we use GRP aluminum rods in alot of very high strung v8s with great success. aluminum rods do not have the life span of a steel rod. due to the constant expanding and contracting and the propertys of aluminuim. they tend to wear out. the aluminum used is genraly forged prior to machining, and i cant see why they wouldnt be heat treated. last time i checked heat doesnt remove the machining marks
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11-25-2009, 11:34 AM
#34
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aluminum doesn't have anywhere near the fatigue life of steel.
also, machining marks on a cyclically stressed part are basically like having a map of failure points for surface fractures. you want that **** SMOOTH and POLISHED.
some companies learn the hard way. in one of my ME classes, the prof brought in a pedal crank from a bicycle that was broken in half (aluminum). closer inspection showed that the break propogated from embossed lettering on the surface of the crank.
also, machining marks on a cyclically stressed part are basically like having a map of failure points for surface fractures. you want that **** SMOOTH and POLISHED.
some companies learn the hard way. in one of my ME classes, the prof brought in a pedal crank from a bicycle that was broken in half (aluminum). closer inspection showed that the break propogated from embossed lettering on the surface of the crank.
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11-25-2009, 01:27 PM
#35
i totaly understand that machine marks create stress points. im just saying that heat treating wont remove them, i think i saw earlier in the thread someone bringing it up that there were machine marks in the rod and that means it wasnt heat treated or something like that.
what this thread all comes down to is that aluminum rods are a strict race only application. i dont see to many people on here with an engine setup that really needs the benifits of an aluminum rod. they are normaly used in drag racing where the engines run time is very short. the engines are rebuilt multiple times per season and the rods are constantly checked for stretch and cracks.
what this thread all comes down to is that aluminum rods are a strict race only application. i dont see to many people on here with an engine setup that really needs the benifits of an aluminum rod. they are normaly used in drag racing where the engines run time is very short. the engines are rebuilt multiple times per season and the rods are constantly checked for stretch and cracks.
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11-25-2009, 01:37 PM
#36
If you go to the BME website, it says that they are safe to use on street cars. At least there products. It might not be cheap, but if you want to go baller, why not?
BME's are probably used more widely than any other aluminum rod. They are very high quality, and used in Top Fuel dragsters. All Top Fuel cars use aluminum rods. You know how much power they make!
BME's are probably used more widely than any other aluminum rod. They are very high quality, and used in Top Fuel dragsters. All Top Fuel cars use aluminum rods. You know how much power they make!
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11-26-2009, 08:50 PM
#38
More horsepower.
It is not the cheap way to get it, but in an all out, budget doesn't matter motor, it will have an advantage over a heavier rod.
For the person who has the capability of fully developing the entire car, aluminum rods seems like a viable option. Assuming that it is in fact a myth that aluminum rods can not be downshifted, or that they need to be changed too often.
I am ordering some right now, damn it!
It is not the cheap way to get it, but in an all out, budget doesn't matter motor, it will have an advantage over a heavier rod.
For the person who has the capability of fully developing the entire car, aluminum rods seems like a viable option. Assuming that it is in fact a myth that aluminum rods can not be downshifted, or that they need to be changed too often.
I am ordering some right now, damn it!
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11-26-2009, 09:16 PM
#40
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That would be me. I meant it didn't look heat treated, AND it still had machining marks, which to me (a machinist) is sort of a sign of cheapness. Even if surface quality isn't important, unlike a seal or bearing surface, you'd still want it to be "pretty" for the customer. At least prettier than that. The part about it not looking heat treated was a separate comment, and I believe made before I knew it was aluminum.
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