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Old 03-25-2009, 11:13 PM   #1
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Default ARP Head Studs

What am I supposed to tighten my ARP head studs to for a 1.8? Also is there anything else besides tightening to the proper torque required for these in a Miata application? I can't believe how small the studs are either.
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:16 PM   #2
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Follow the directions listed on the sheet that came with them. I think it goes something along the lines of hand tighten into the block, install head, apply their moly lube, and tighten to the torque specified on the sheet. Unless you don't have that sheet?
Make sure you follow the correct tightening pattern though.
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:19 PM   #3
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I don't have that sheet from ARP. I have the tightening pattern from the shop manual and that's it.
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:24 PM   #4
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Oh. You're missing their moly lube then too.
I found the basic instructions online, but I don't have the torque they list. The sheet is over at my dad's where my car and engine is. Sorry.

Quote:
1) To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings,
clean and re - tap, if necessary, ALL threads in the block.

2) Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious
defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.

3) a. If cylinder head studs protrude into water jacket, lubricate the block
threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.

b. If cylinder head studs protrude into blind hole, lubricate the threads,
nuts and washers with ARP THREAD LUBRICANT or 30wt oil.

c. Screw studs into block "HAND TIGHT ONLY" .

NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE
STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER MUST BE
TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.

4) Install cylinder heads and check for binding or misalignment.

5) ARP recommends using the ARP MOLY LUBRICANT or at the very least,
a good quality Moly Lubricant as opposed to motor oil. This is due to
higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping
force of the fasteners when motor oil ( or low quality lubricant) is used.
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:33 PM   #5
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I've got the moly lube for them. Did a little searching over on m.net and found one person recommending 65 ft/lbs and that sounds about right. Few other posts had some numbers that I know are way wrong. I guess I'll make some calls in the morning to know for sure.
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:38 PM   #6
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Here ya go:


--Ferdi
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:41 PM   #7
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Thank you very much.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:04 AM   #8
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Check the calibration on your torque wrench too if you have not done so.
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:17 PM   #9
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Did you guys notice that the studs don't thread into the block to a uniform depth?

I've chased the threads, soaked with PB blaster, then blown the holes out with air and some studs sit deeper into the block than others. I don't have a spare head to check thread engagement on the top side, unfortunately.
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pschmidt View Post
Did you guys notice that the studs don't thread into the block to a uniform depth?

I've chased the threads, soaked with PB blaster, then blown the holes out with air and some studs sit deeper into the block than others. I don't have a spare head to check thread engagement on the top side, unfortunately.
Yes, I noticed this and now I dont feel as worried about it. No matter what I did there were 2 at the back of the block that did not sink as low as the others.

Also, when I re-torqued them (like you're suppose to with the stock head bolts) they didn't budge a bit. Normal you think?

And to the OP, the weird suggested numbers you found on m.net were likely the 85ft/lbs numbers that you have to use when lubing the studs with engine oil instead of the moly lube.
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pschmidt View Post
Did you guys notice that the studs don't thread into the block to a uniform depth?
I don't remember ever having that issue.

How far off were the studs relative to each other in your build?
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pschmidt View Post
Did you guys notice that the studs don't thread into the block to a uniform depth?
I don't remember that being the case, but since I haven't bolted the valve cover back on I can take a look.
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Old 03-27-2009, 03:01 PM   #13
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Me neither, I'm pretty sure they all went in evenly.
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Old 03-27-2009, 03:22 PM   #14
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Two of the studs do sit higher, but its because of the hole location, not actual depth. I think it was the front two studs. The casting on the head are also higher to account for this. Unless my **** was messed up and its not right like that... unless you guys meant each bolt not going in evenly. All of the other ones seemed to be equal to one another in depth.
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Old 03-27-2009, 03:30 PM   #15
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If it is just two studs, then it would have to be the ones that are threaded in the holes that have the alignments bushings.
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Old 03-27-2009, 03:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtonyg View Post
If it is just two studs, then it would have to be the ones that are threaded in the holes that have the alignments bushings.
You mean the block-head dowels? I remember them both being on the same side (like both on intake or exhaust side, cannot remember which.)

FWIW, my studs look just like those in the picture above. I guess it was at the front of the head that they didn't sink like the rest, not the back like I remembered.
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Old 03-27-2009, 03:42 PM   #17
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Got mine in and bolted everything back together. I still can't believe that nobody has problems with head studs on these cars. These things are tiny compared to any other car that I have messed with, especially for a boosted application.
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Old 03-27-2009, 03:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
Got mine in and bolted everything back together. I still can't believe that nobody has problems with head studs on these cars. These things are tiny compared to any other car that I have messed with, especially for a boosted application.
Maybe its different for the 1.8, but I remember the ones on my Integra being the same size as on my miata (1.6). Did not seem small to me.

I've never heard of anyone having head-lift problems in a miata but its a very common issue on hondas...
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtonyg View Post
I don't remember ever having that issue.

How far off were the studs relative to each other in your build?

I'd say a good quarter inch, if not a little more. It seems to be at random as well; there's no rhyme or reason to it.
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:44 PM   #20
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1.6 and 1.8 use the same head studs

hondas have issues because they are open deck :P
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