ARP Head studs
#1
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ARP Head studs
I've read everything about them, however when I'm hand tightening them into the block even with a little extra push with an allen wrench there all uneven as far as how deep they go in, Is this normal or should they all be 100% level? I've read that they should be tightened to the base of the blocks' thread, is this correct?
Note: I've chased the threads with an old stud grinded on one side, (to clean the threads) and I've made sure there is no debris.. thoughts?
Note: I've chased the threads with an old stud grinded on one side, (to clean the threads) and I've made sure there is no debris.. thoughts?
#7
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I bought a tap and cleaned out each hole prior to my install. I recommend doing the same. I forget the tap size, i can look it up later.
We are rebuilding my friends '99 tonight (haha i left the tap at home..crap) . I will probably just thread them in once and then remove them, re-oil, and re-install (hand tight)
We are rebuilding my friends '99 tonight (haha i left the tap at home..crap) . I will probably just thread them in once and then remove them, re-oil, and re-install (hand tight)
#9
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They are all the same length but they won't all be the same height. The threads in the block are set at different heights. It will look funky before you put the head on, but once the head goes on it looks normal.
#10
The front two will stand higher from the block without the head. The mounting surfaces in the head are just a bit higher/thicker at the front. (See Pics) I don't remember if there were two that were actually longer or if the block holes just weren't as deep.
When I did mine, I hand tightened them till they bottomed out then backed them off a quarter turn. Make sure you use the included torquing goop and also there is a tighter torque spec included with the studs.(80vs60lbs IIRC) Also that torque goop seemed really abrasive so I wiped the extra out of the cam valley when I was done, rather then letting the oil circulate it.
When I did mine, I hand tightened them till they bottomed out then backed them off a quarter turn. Make sure you use the included torquing goop and also there is a tighter torque spec included with the studs.(80vs60lbs IIRC) Also that torque goop seemed really abrasive so I wiped the extra out of the cam valley when I was done, rather then letting the oil circulate it.
#12
I bought a tap and cleaned out each hole prior to my install. I recommend doing the same. I forget the tap size, i can look it up later.
We are rebuilding my friends '99 tonight (haha i left the tap at home..crap) . I will probably just thread them in once and then remove them, re-oil, and re-install (hand tight)
We are rebuilding my friends '99 tonight (haha i left the tap at home..crap) . I will probably just thread them in once and then remove them, re-oil, and re-install (hand tight)
#13
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You mean ARP Assembly Lube? You're supposed to coat a LOT of stuff with it while assembling an engine. Everything that has a bearing surface, cam journals, main and rod bearings, tops and bottoms of the head stud washers, the head nuts themselves, the threads on the head studs, etc. It's not abrasive at all, it's the exact opposite of abrasive.
#14
You mean ARP Assembly Lube? You're supposed to coat a LOT of stuff with it while assembling an engine. Everything that has a bearing surface, cam journals, main and rod bearings, tops and bottoms of the head stud washers, the head nuts themselves, the threads on the head studs, etc. It's not abrasive at all, it's the exact opposite of abrasive.
#15
You mean ARP Assembly Lube? You're supposed to coat a LOT of stuff with it while assembling an engine. Everything that has a bearing surface, cam journals, main and rod bearings, tops and bottoms of the head stud washers, the head nuts themselves, the threads on the head studs, etc. It's not abrasive at all, it's the exact opposite of abrasive.
#16
Here's a link to it. Definitely NOT something you want on bearing surfaces.
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/arpultratorque.shtml
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/arpultratorque.shtml
#18
Sorry to derail the thread, but is that aluminum paint, ie they call the color aluminum? I got paint from NAPA for my block that is called aluminum, yours looks good, but I'd prefer less metallic/shiny and more a glossy gray color instead.
Looks clean, though, kudos. Can't wait to start assembling my longblock.
Looks clean, though, kudos. Can't wait to start assembling my longblock.
#19
Sorry to derail the thread, but is that aluminum paint, ie they call the color aluminum? I got paint from NAPA for my block that is called aluminum, yours looks good, but I'd prefer less metallic/shiny and more a glossy gray color instead.
Looks clean, though, kudos. Can't wait to start assembling my longblock.
Looks clean, though, kudos. Can't wait to start assembling my longblock.
http://www.brandsport.com/vhtp-sp403.html