ATI damper and Billet oil pump gears??
02-13-2012, 10:55 AM
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ATI damper and Billet oil pump gears??
So here's my question... If Im running Billet oil pump gears is it necessary to spend the money for an ATI damper? I haven't heard many of the higher HP guys say anything about getting an after market damper but I'm not really wanting to cut corners since I'm sinking a small fortune into this engine.... I know the damper does more than help against the oil pump exploding but just wonderingif it's a HAVE TO HAVE or not....
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02-13-2012, 11:36 AM
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So here's my question... If Im running Billet oil pump gears is it necessary to spend the money for an ATI damper? I haven't heard many of the higher HP guys say anything about getting an after market damper but I'm not really wanting to cut corners since I'm sinking a small fortune into this engine.... I know the damper does more than help against the oil pump exploding but just wonderingif it's a HAVE TO HAVE or not....
The damper did make my miata smoother. It's actually VERY VERY smooth.
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02-13-2012, 12:29 PM
#4
I did not plan to get either right now since I'll tear down and inspect after 8 hours anyway, but since the OEM damper was shot, I got the ATI (instead of another OEM).
The OEM pump looks really good during my build but it might get replaced sometime down the line.
But I'm no authority on the issue, just someone who hope that an OEM VVT pump that have seen 80k miles (and looks good) will be enough for a built VVT engine with normal clearances.
The OEM pump looks really good during my build but it might get replaced sometime down the line.
But I'm no authority on the issue, just someone who hope that an OEM VVT pump that have seen 80k miles (and looks good) will be enough for a built VVT engine with normal clearances.
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02-13-2012, 12:54 PM
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So "smooth" is worth $550? and what exactly is smooth? did you ever run the stock balancer with your built engine to compare the differences? I mean who's to say that since you have it fully balanced internally that that is the reason for the smoothness?
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02-13-2012, 01:15 PM
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02-13-2012, 01:45 PM
#10
Yes, to me it was.
Smooth isn't how the engine felt, I'd never consider a BP engine smooth. I base smooth on what my knock sensor was telling me. I'm sure others will disagree with using that as the basis for my opinion, but that was the only option I had at the time to make a comparison.
Yes.
That's why it was ran with and without the ATI damper.
Smooth isn't how the engine felt, I'd never consider a BP engine smooth. I base smooth on what my knock sensor was telling me. I'm sure others will disagree with using that as the basis for my opinion, but that was the only option I had at the time to make a comparison.
That's why it was ran with and without the ATI damper.
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02-13-2012, 03:04 PM
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I did not plan to get either right now since I'll tear down and inspect after 8 hours anyway, but since the OEM damper was shot, I got the ATI (instead of another OEM).
The OEM pump looks really good during my build but it might get replaced sometime down the line.
But I'm no authority on the issue, just someone who hope that an OEM VVT pump that have seen 80k miles (and looks good) will be enough for a built VVT engine with normal clearances.
The OEM pump looks really good during my build but it might get replaced sometime down the line.
But I'm no authority on the issue, just someone who hope that an OEM VVT pump that have seen 80k miles (and looks good) will be enough for a built VVT engine with normal clearances.
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02-13-2012, 03:09 PM
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Look I will save you the braincycles.
If you're going to aim for a worthwhile amount of horsepower-- 400+++++
then you had better start picking pennies up off the sidewalk.
My build is not -that- all out for the driveline, but I still have $10-$15K in the whole thing.
Damper cost is negligible if you are already spending $10k.
If you're not, and just want 350hp or so just run billet gears and *** it, be done. You might be able to save $5000+
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02-13-2012, 03:44 PM
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The only thing possibily misssing in my engine build is this ATI "SUPER DAMPER" and I just have a hard time believeing it's the missing link in my 500 hp build.....the only reason I originally considered it was to run a magnet setup for timing.
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02-13-2012, 03:51 PM
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I can't remember exactly how much. Bill and Jeremy at FM verified it to be the case when I was planning my build, but if you want independent confirmation, check post #409 in this thread.
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02-13-2012, 10:36 PM
#20
Look I will save you the braincycles.
If you're going to aim for a worthwhile amount of horsepower-- 400+++++
then you had better start picking pennies up off the sidewalk.
My build is not -that- all out for the driveline, but I still have $10-$15K in the whole thing.
Damper cost is negligible if you are already spending $10k.
If you're not, and just want 350hp or so just run billet gears and *** it, be done. You might be able to save $5000+
If you're going to aim for a worthwhile amount of horsepower-- 400+++++
then you had better start picking pennies up off the sidewalk.
My build is not -that- all out for the driveline, but I still have $10-$15K in the whole thing.
Damper cost is negligible if you are already spending $10k.
If you're not, and just want 350hp or so just run billet gears and *** it, be done. You might be able to save $5000+
I got one for this reason. Anything I can do to possibly make the engine last a little longer I did, and some. If you got the money to build a 500hp car, why not buy a 500 part to make it run a little smoother. If you don't have the money, I wouldn't consider it necessary for a build.
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