Rallas

iTrader: (9)

I need some help from someone that has installed one of these BEGI water pump inlets on a 1.8 setup with a 50mm or larger radiator.
There is no freeking room to run the hose to the lower radiator! The swaybar is in the way. I can't fit anything between the swaybar and the radiator and to run it between the swaybar and the engine is not an option due to interferences with the AC/PS belt. I didn't check before I installed the upgraded radiator but even with the factory radiator it must be a real tight fit.
I have searched everywhere and downloaded every BEGI manual I can find that relates to this re-route pump inlet but cannot find pictures that show how it needs to be done.
I am about to change the fan shroud to remove the offest on the driver side fan and just mount it directly to the radiator to gain an extra 1/2". Any other ideas? This one has me stomped. It is the last thing I need to figuire out to get my 1.8 swap driving.

baron340

iTrader: (5)

Remove AC and or PS... a depowered rack really isn't bad at all to drive with.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I ran the factory routing with an NB lower rad hose.

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

Hustler, does the NB hose fit in between the swaybar and fans/shroud? I can barely fit the 1.25" hose in there without binding and I only have the 7/8" solid sway bar. I was hoping to upgreade to the 1.25" hollow RB sway bar, but there is now ay on hell I can make enough room for that.
I drive this miata to work in the summer and would really like to keep the AC. I have debated depowering the rack for track day dependebility but I would like to make this work first.
I might just end up welding up a little manifold to snake around and clear everything. I just wanted to see what others have done with this BEGI waterpump inlet. One other issue I have with the design is that it points the 3/8 hose coming off the inlet right into the AC pulley, I have to have the hose tied off to barely clear the rotating pulley (1/16 gap). I am not comfortable with this at all. I am even debating on removing the whole inlet and welding one up myself that would work better.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

The NB hose has the same routing as the stock NA routing but deleted the metal pipe bolted to the frame. You want to wrap it in heat-shieldy-stuff though.

After a few months with that I paid ARTech to make a hardpipe for me with routing around the front by the sway-bar.

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

I can't use a factory waterpump inlet due to using a MSM turbo. I don't see how a NB hose would work without modifying it. I just need to clear the swaybar, the routing of the supplied hose works great if there is no swaybar in the way or if I stick the skinny factory radiator in there. Looks like I might be engineering something new on this one.
I am glad I got this re-rout as a freebee with my BEGI intercooler setup. I would be pissed if I bought one new. I thought they made better engineered products.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

What about the motor rocking? I guess you have a coupler or something that moves enough?

To be clear, you have a pipe that goes from the water pump to the lower radiator, and that pipe has a big bung on it for the heater hose?

Stephanie Turner

Relte,
I would encourage you to call and ask for help. Also, please understand that while we do our best to accommodate most aftermarket parts we cannot make every single part work with every other aftermarket part ever made. To do so would invite some sort of madness that no one is fond of. That said, we have not met a sway bar this re-route did not fit around, to our knowledge. If the solid tube will fit between the belts and the sway bar, route it thru there, but zip tie it to the sway bar so that it cannot touch the belts. If it fits between the fans and the sway bar, route it there. A spacer can be added to the rubber tubing if needed. Please feel free to call for help or e-mail me some photos for some more fitment tips.
Stephanie

sv650_ck

iTrader: (10)

Here's mine with FM sway bar and oem radiator. I tried it a couple of different ways. I think the 2nd photo is how I left it.

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

I reworked the radiator fan shroutd and ended up mounting the fan on the drivers side directly to the radiator. Still no where near enough room. I ended up yanking the modified waterneck and running teh factory waterneck and heater tube for now. I am breaking the engine in NA and will add the turbo later. I will have to address the issue later, I just do not have the time or patience to deal with it now.
I ordered the two factory lower rad hoses from Autozone and they ended up giving me two hoses with completely different ID's. I can fit the small hose in the larger hose it is so big. The part numbers match the website but the larger hose obviously is not made for a miata.

inferno94

iTrader: (2)

Mine works basically the same as sv650's. I've got the stock sway, ac and ps as well as a 55mm rad, stock fans and factory belly pan. I also have a splice into the lower rad hose to return my heater core and no belt issues.

There is minimal clearance but I've had no issues with my setup, use rtv to seal all connections and you'll be alright.

Mine is also a 1.8 if you're wondering.