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Old 07-04-2016, 12:44 AM   #21
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I want to see this dyno sheet for your current 1.6 with 220 hp. I don't believe you.

A 1.8 with 275-300 will be a handfull to drive, and costs a shitloads to be reliable. Think 10-12k if you need fabrication help. 6-8 if you dont. Keep that in mind.
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Old 07-04-2016, 01:17 AM   #22
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I say more than 10k easy.
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Old 07-04-2016, 01:44 AM   #23
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A 6258 is likely not enough to take you to 400 whp either.

You'll need E85 to hit your power goals most likely, or turn the engine 8000 rpm.
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:02 AM   #24
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who cares, let him dream. just a few posts ago he wanted to build a 1.6 for the "high revving"
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Old 07-04-2016, 03:18 AM   #25
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Well it might be worth it just to be unique.
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:32 PM   #26
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who cares, let him dream. just a few posts ago he wanted to build a 1.6 for the "high revving"
Sure if you want to be an ******* about it. It's just basic theory that less mass equates to more rotational capability. Glad I came here for help and just have a bunch of douches circle jerkings because I wanted to work with a 1.6.
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:33 PM   #27
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Welcome to mt.net. Where people with stupid theories get butthurt when they are told they are wrong.
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:38 PM   #28
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Ease up dude.
Everyone is taking it very easy with you so far.
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:44 PM   #29
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So what is a "realistic" number then. Or should I just ls swap?
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:48 PM   #30
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Double post
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:57 PM   #31
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So what is a "realistic" number then. Or should I just ls swap?
Do everything you've talked about so far, but shoot for 300 first.
That is more power than many can safely handle in a miata, and your car will be much more reliable.
Turn up the boost as your skill increases.
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Old 07-04-2016, 01:01 PM   #32
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So what is a "realistic" number then. Or should I just ls swap?
Swap. Period. Something to understand, is that these are not Honda engines. They wont spin 9k and be ok with it. They don't rev, not for long anway. The 1.6 and 1.8 are basically the same engine, one just has a smaller bore. Basically. So when you decide to use a 1.6, you are at a few distinct disadvantages.

1. Off the shelf Parts availability for 1.6 is limited.
2. You will have slower spool, always.
3. You will have less tq. And less hp. For any given mod. Always.
4. You will be ridiculed for using a poo poo platform. Always.


Don't let the flaming get to you. Don't get defensive, this site is a cornucopia of information. Other sites will make you feel really good about your lame plans, that simply will not happen here. This is home to the most bad *** machines around. Not turds, wrapped in Plasti-Dip, sittin' low on Racelands.

Accept it, be a part of it, or move on.
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Old 07-04-2016, 01:01 PM   #33
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An efr6758 will let you hit 400, and wont spool like donky dick.

Is this your first car build? Or do you have real experience.
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Old 07-04-2016, 01:13 PM   #34
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I have some experience. I've rebuilt a few 351w with my dad. Currently I have a greddy turbo/manifold, 2.5" turboback straightpipe, 440cc injectors, clutchmasters stage 2 clutch/flywheel, Corbeau Forza seats, Sparco 5 pt harness, sparco steering wheel, FM intercooler, 3.9 Torsen diff, MSPNP2 tuned by me. All rolling on RS3s in 225/45/15. I did 95% of the work.
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:13 PM   #35
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Quote:
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I have some experience. I've rebuilt a few 351w with my dad. Currently I have a greddy turbo/manifold, 2.5" turboback straightpipe, 440cc injectors, clutchmasters stage 2 clutch/flywheel, Corbeau Forza seats, Sparco 5 pt harness, sparco steering wheel, FM intercooler, 3.9 Torsen diff, MSPNP2 tuned by me. All rolling on RS3s in 225/45/15. I did 95% of the work.
If your goal is 400hp then your seats are fine, steering wheel, seat belts, tires I guess, MS.

I'm not sure the miata the the platform for you. v8 is going to be your path if you stay with miata. I agree with Ryan.

Something people cant seem to get through their heads is that no matter how much power you put down with a Miata they are still only going to be so fast. Their transmission and rear end gearing see to that. Max speed on a miata with swapped 3.9 rear end is 150. @ 8k rpm (lots of head work where the head will prematurely die anyway) it's 165 or so MAX. Anyway my point is if you are replacing all those things you don't really have a miata anymore.... and It would take you forever to get to 165 and lots of extra aero... a long long road. For 20k you can buy an older z06 and do 150 coming out of your driveway. I've never had my miata over 120 in a controlled environment. Not enough straight.
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:18 PM   #36
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I think his current set up is making maybe 180 hp. Maybe. OP, a 275-300 hp miata is insane. It is also pretty damn reliable with about 10k. Your 400 hp dream will be a mechanical nightmare. You will spend 15k and then another 3k every rear in broken parts.
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:20 PM   #37
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don't get mad just cause you're ignorant.
don't let the ego stand in the way of acceptance that you know nothing and need to learn. building some old school chevy nearly nothing to do with turboing a miata.

it's one thing to come in here and ask for advice, it's another to state goals and state mod lists that you just came up with outa thin air which make no sense, and then get mad that we poke fun of a really moronic theory that you had/have/will have.



Now, are you ready to start reading?
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:35 PM   #38
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351W is Ford bruh
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Old 07-04-2016, 04:55 PM   #39
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Oh my bad that changes everything
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Old 07-04-2016, 05:38 PM   #40
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GUYS! The op has already changed his mind. He is going with a 1.8L VVT engine.

Just so we are all on the same page.
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