best clutch option? 19-22psi
#1
best clutch option? 19-22psi
Hello everyone, I am thinking of replacing my competition clutch stage 3 and increasing the blowing to about 19-22 psi. I am considering a competition clutch stage 4 type clutch or the Bofiracing one (theoretically this second one supports more torque) opinions? Any recommendation? I'm open to advice
#5
I drive a jrspec bb hybrid 2860rs, I don't like the psi/HP calculations but I think that at 22psi it will be around 300ft/lbs of Torque almost certainly, on the other hand the use is a street/drift car so I am interested in a material that withstand the abuse and the temperature that is why I was evaluating ceramics (and here in Spain act and FM are difficult and expensive to find)
#8
I've yet to install my Pulsar G25-550 and Kraken Exhaust, but I'm looking for around 325-350wtq as well. Personally, I'm looking to replace my Supermiata 4 puck with the Flyin Miata Level 2 clutch once the SM one bites the dust. Realistically the SM 4-puck sucks driving on the street, which is where my car lives 98% of its life. From my experience, it is very noisy and not the smoothest engagement (which is 100% to be expected with a puck clutch, not just beating on the SM clutch specifically). It is loud enough when slipping that it turns heads from bystanders. Not to mention the shudders, especially in reverse, are annoying to deal with.
The SM sport clutch is rated for 340 lb-ft at the crank while the FM level 2 is rated for 353 lb-ft. It is a choice of a lighter pedal but harsh 4-puck engagement and a shorter lifespan for street driving on the SM clutch, or heavier pedal with smooth organic clutch engagement with a longer lifespan on the street with the FM clutch. I know Andy Floyd was running the SM 4 puck and made around 350wtq and it held, but I believe I've also read of someone making around 320wtq and it slipping on them.
I wish someone with experience making big power with the FM clutch would chime in. Does anyone have experience making 350wtq+ on it? Any clue where it starts to slip?
The SM sport clutch is rated for 340 lb-ft at the crank while the FM level 2 is rated for 353 lb-ft. It is a choice of a lighter pedal but harsh 4-puck engagement and a shorter lifespan for street driving on the SM clutch, or heavier pedal with smooth organic clutch engagement with a longer lifespan on the street with the FM clutch. I know Andy Floyd was running the SM 4 puck and made around 350wtq and it held, but I believe I've also read of someone making around 320wtq and it slipping on them.
I wish someone with experience making big power with the FM clutch would chime in. Does anyone have experience making 350wtq+ on it? Any clue where it starts to slip?
#9
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Our clutch won't have a shorter lifespan on the street. Ceramic/puck discs basically last forever. But yeah, it definitely can be persnickety on the street.
In my 10AE turbo street car I found that the way I drove it made a huge difference. I don't remember my exact technique but I did get to the point where I could street drive the car without thinking about it with only very occasional noise/shuddering. You've probably tried this but... keep trying
You'll also find that, similar to "what tq level do my rods die at" there's not one solid torque level that the clutch will slip at. There's a range, sure, but you won't find that every car slips at the same torque level even with the same clutch. @Wingman703 ran our organic clutch wayyyy beyond its rated capacity and it held for a while that way before finally slipping.
It's not an exact science.
In my 10AE turbo street car I found that the way I drove it made a huge difference. I don't remember my exact technique but I did get to the point where I could street drive the car without thinking about it with only very occasional noise/shuddering. You've probably tried this but... keep trying
You'll also find that, similar to "what tq level do my rods die at" there's not one solid torque level that the clutch will slip at. There's a range, sure, but you won't find that every car slips at the same torque level even with the same clutch. @Wingman703 ran our organic clutch wayyyy beyond its rated capacity and it held for a while that way before finally slipping.
It's not an exact science.
#10
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I like my FM2 pressure plate combined with the SM organic disc. That being said I climb hills for a living, and I only notice a little extra pedal effort when I get in my truck after driving the Miata for a while. "Dang the clutch is broken in this POS truck!!" Nevermind, it works, just feels like only a return spring
This combo is nice and holds big power abusive launches for about 2 years non stop. I imagine it would last longer without the constant hard(6k dump clutch) launches. I think the SM clutch is very nice but I need one of the extreme 400ft/lb pressure plates for my application.
This combo is nice and holds big power abusive launches for about 2 years non stop. I imagine it would last longer without the constant hard(6k dump clutch) launches. I think the SM clutch is very nice but I need one of the extreme 400ft/lb pressure plates for my application.
#12
I've yet to install my Pulsar G25-550 and Kraken Exhaust, but I'm looking for around 325-350wtq as well. Personally, I'm looking to replace my Supermiata 4 puck with the Flyin Miata Level 2 clutch once the SM one bites the dust. Realistically the SM 4-puck sucks driving on the street, which is where my car lives 98% of its life. From my experience, it is very noisy and not the smoothest engagement (which is 100% to be expected with a puck clutch, not just beating on the SM clutch specifically). It is loud enough when slipping that it turns heads from bystanders. Not to mention the shudders, especially in reverse, are annoying to deal with.
The SM sport clutch is rated for 340 lb-ft at the crank while the FM level 2 is rated for 353 lb-ft. It is a choice of a lighter pedal but harsh 4-puck engagement and a shorter lifespan for street driving on the SM clutch, or heavier pedal with smooth organic clutch engagement with a longer lifespan on the street with the FM clutch. I know Andy Floyd was running the SM 4 puck and made around 350wtq and it held, but I believe I've also read of someone making around 320wtq and it slipping on them.
I wish someone with experience making big power with the FM clutch would chime in. Does anyone have experience making 350wtq+ on it? Any clue where it starts to slip?
The SM sport clutch is rated for 340 lb-ft at the crank while the FM level 2 is rated for 353 lb-ft. It is a choice of a lighter pedal but harsh 4-puck engagement and a shorter lifespan for street driving on the SM clutch, or heavier pedal with smooth organic clutch engagement with a longer lifespan on the street with the FM clutch. I know Andy Floyd was running the SM 4 puck and made around 350wtq and it held, but I believe I've also read of someone making around 320wtq and it slipping on them.
I wish someone with experience making big power with the FM clutch would chime in. Does anyone have experience making 350wtq+ on it? Any clue where it starts to slip?
I would agree it is a bit noisy when cold but that is gone after a few miles. And after a while driving on the street, slipping the clutch to start has become just as easy as the FM stage 1 it replaced; It can grab if your a bit loose with it though.. Shudders just the same in reverse as well.
On the track it is great, very easy to shift fast with no slipping; heel toe downshifts as fast as I am able to.
When looking to pick out my clutch there was a surprising amount of people that have problems with the FM stage 2, issues adjusting and disengaging seem to be pretty common.
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