Bottom End Parts Preferences
#1
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Bottom End Parts Preferences
So I am planning to build a block for future use and had a few questions as to what is actually a necessity. My goals are probably about 275 whp, I'd say 300 MAX. So I was thinking Wiseco +1mm overbore 9:1 pistons, as far as rods, I'm thinking M-tuned, but would the stock rods hold up? Would I need something like an ATI Superdamper? Or would the stock balancer work as well. FYI, obviously I would get the whole rotating assembly balanced before it goes in the car and gets fired up.
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Any suggestions are welcomed.
#3
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What's your budget?
For my track car I will be putting in just rods and crank up the boost till I'm at 280 ish and see how it works. Then again I will be putting them in myself and save me some change.
For my track car I will be putting in just rods and crank up the boost till I'm at 280 ish and see how it works. Then again I will be putting them in myself and save me some change.
#5
For your power goals, if you have good tuning you should be able to get away with just doing rods. Rods are the first thing to go. M-tuned rods, freshen up the hone in the block, new gaskets, maybe better head studs. OPG's aren't a common point of failure around and under the 300hp mark. Pistons go due to detonation. Even forged pistons don't hold up to that. ATI damper is a whole lot more money than opg's, you don't need both with your hp goals.
Your list is great if you don't mind spending the money. You'd be building a tough motor that should take more than you'd be giving it, pretty much what I'm doing right now too.
Your list is great if you don't mind spending the money. You'd be building a tough motor that should take more than you'd be giving it, pretty much what I'm doing right now too.
#6
+1...you've got your forged parts backwards.
Replace rods and keep stock slugs before doing Wisecos on stock rods (there's no point).
Supposedly forged rods and stock pistons can handle the 250-300whp range as long as you avoid det like the plague. I'll be able to tell you how that goes next month.
After than you'd need forged everything.
Replace rods and keep stock slugs before doing Wisecos on stock rods (there's no point).
Supposedly forged rods and stock pistons can handle the 250-300whp range as long as you avoid det like the plague. I'll be able to tell you how that goes next month.
After than you'd need forged everything.
#7
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So Stock everything (pistons, balancer) hone it out to smooth the bores, new rings...M-tuned rods...and that's it? I should be good for a reliable 275 hp.
#8
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P.S. I said 275 hp, cause I plan on putting on nothing more than my Sr20 turbo with a 60mm wheel upgrade. This setup I have heard is similar to a 2560 turbo, and I plan on running no more than 16psi. With my current 2 1/2" exhaust I figured on putting down about 275 MAX, but I said 300 just to be on a over exagurating side.
Paul with his 311 whp on a 2560 is my idol, but in daily driven reliability, I will just be happy with an almost stock bottom end and a rebuildable (by me) journal bearing turbo.
Paul with his 311 whp on a 2560 is my idol, but in daily driven reliability, I will just be happy with an almost stock bottom end and a rebuildable (by me) journal bearing turbo.
#9
It all depends on how efficient the system flows and having a good tune, don't know about your turbo. There are plenty of successes here with just that and plenty of failures with much more put in. Like the location, location, location theme in real estate the answer here is tune, tune, tune.
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